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Thread: In search of a better floor jack

  1. #1
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    In search of a better floor jack

    Hi --

    Like many track rats, I'm in search of a better floor jack. I have the 1.5 ton Harbor Fright "Compact Racing" jack. The problem is it only gets my car 14" up in the air, barely high enough to slip a jack-stand under there unless I have piece of 2x4 on top of the jack-pad while also being so thick I need the front of the car on blocks to slip the jack under my front splitter.

    So the question is: is there a jack which is 1) lightweight (so I could bring it to track), thin (so I can get it under my track car), with good hight (so my nose isn't practically brushing the bottom of the car when I'm working under it. (Oh, affordable is nice too).

    Here is what I have: http://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton-...ump-60569.html
    This looks good from a min/max height perspective, but 93lb is WAY TOO heavy: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-L...ump-68050.html

    The other think I considered was ramps, but the ones I got from HF won't work -- I can't drive up them due to low car, and can't even slide them under the rear as they hit the exhaust. http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...set-68365.html

    Help!

  2. #2
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    I have the HF 2ton low profile floor jack you mentioned. Works nice in the garage, but you're right, I wouldn't want to lug that thing to the track.

  3. #3
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    ^Me too, one of the few items I have from Horrible Freight.

    You can search the forum as this topic like 99.99% of them have been discussed already.

    Or

    You can just Google it as I did and found some in seconds flat.
    Last edited by E36forever; 04-03-2017 at 08:28 AM.

  4. #4
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    How far off the ground is the splitter? I use something very similar to this jack (http://www.harborfreight.com/2-Ton-A...ump-62247.html) but I can drive up on stepped 2x8s (one 18" long nailed on top of one 36" long). Easily gets the car high enough to put jackstands under the front. Rear doesn't need the ramps and will still take jackstands.

  5. #5
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    I just bought this one a few days ago for the same reasons you mentioned: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-l...ump-61282.html

    It's 70 lbs or so. Still heavy compared to the little aluminum one, but it's super low profile, inexpensive, and lifts over 19". Just hit the gym more and you'll be good.

  6. #6
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    Dont know why you are having trouble with the normal 1.5 ton aluminum racing jack, my jackstands fit fine under the fcab area using these. These are made perfect for trackside pad swaps, etc. For home I have the big bertha 3 TON high lift harbor freight jack in case I want to stand underneath her for a few months in the winter....

  7. #7
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    Spend a little extra and get yourself a reasonably nice aluminum jack. I use the OTC Aluminum jack. It weighs under 50# and is low enough to get under most reasonably lowered cars. Unlike Harbor Freight, Craftsman, etc. The OTC jack is actually made in the USA. You can buy replacement parts if you need them, unlike the cheap brands. OTC has a service and support line if you have issues. They also have physical service centers for your tools. I have had the cheap ones and they usually work for a couple years, then they blow a seal or something that you can't replace because it is made in some factory in China and you throw it away. Spend a little extra for a good one that will last. I am going on 10 years with my jack and it is perfect.

  8. #8
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    I use an aluminum craftsman 3T floor jack when I need to bring one on the road. I also have that low profile 2T HF jack and a AFF 2 ton jack both of which I think are more robust than the craftsman unit.. But I've had the craftsman the longest since '09 and it still works well. It has the best modulation but it's also the slowest to raise.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Verruckt32 View Post
    Spend a little extra and get yourself a reasonably nice aluminum jack. I use the OTC Aluminum jack. It weighs under 50# and is low enough to get under most reasonably lowered cars. Unlike Harbor Freight, Craftsman, etc. The OTC jack is actually made in the USA. You can buy replacement parts if you need them, unlike the cheap brands. OTC has a service and support line if you have issues. They also have physical service centers for your tools. I have had the cheap ones and they usually work for a couple years, then they blow a seal or something that you can't replace because it is made in some factory in China and you throw it away. Spend a little extra for a good one that will last. I am going on 10 years with my jack and it is perfect.
    Made in Taiwan, gets mixed reviews.


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  10. #10
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    Spend much more on a bigger low profile aluminum jack or use the $59 HF aluminum jack and drive up on a 2x4 or 2x6 or 2x8 or similar.

  11. #11
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    I have a 3 ton suv jack that if you take off the jack pad where the suv extention goes it fits makes it lower profile than my low PF 2ton. At 2&1/4 inches


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  12. #12
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    +1 for the OTC. Had mine for 5 yrs and no issues. Got tired of returning the HF jack every 9 mos.

  13. #13
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    Clearly not an option for everyone, but if you're building a race/track car, you can add a jacking plate on the rocker on both sides. Then just about any aluminum jack will do. Excuse the flash-rust as I just got it back from the cage builder and haven't painted yet.

    IMG_1455[1].jpg

  14. #14
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    OC, who'd you use to build your cage?

  15. #15
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    Bret Hamilton Enterprises in Powhatan, VA. He builds mostly dirt / oval cars but has now built three Spec3 cages. A bit of a haul, but very much worth it. Feel free to PM with any questions.

  16. #16
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    I use a Schwaben 2-ton aluminum when I'm out and about, 20 inch lift w/ a ~3inch lowest pad setting (LINK). Weights right around 50 lbs so it's not too bad to lug around.

    OCRentAPopo great suggestion! My cage builder did that on my old track rat, when I get around to building another track toy I'm going to have to remember to have that done again, made lifting such a breeze.

    Also +1 for OTC I have their driveline lift it's been pretty awesome for quiet a few years now.

    -James

  17. #17
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    Just to close this out --

    I ended up going with the HF low-profile long reach jack. The thing is a beast and definitely not something you want to be lifting in and out of your trunk at nearly 100 lbs (I think I nearly pulled a muscle in my back just unpacking it) so I'll keep the lightweight aluminum jack for track days. But it gets my car a full 2 feet up in the air (23.75" max height), high enough to set it down on some 6 ton jack stands. When I left the car jacked up overnight, I half-expected to find some San Francisco bums living under there the next day.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-L...ump-68050.html

    I've only had it a week, so can't speak to longevity, but for only $140 I don't really care and feel much better working under the car.
    Last edited by wintershade; 05-01-2017 at 06:25 PM.

  18. #18
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    I have that same jack (the HF low profile long reach). I originally bought it for my Jeep (just needed a taller jack), but its great for my somewhat low E36 as well.

    When going to the track, I just bring my HF 3 ton low profile jack. Not light, but I'd prefer to have a real, sturdy jack if I end up needing it.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by wintershade View Post
    Just to close this out --

    I ended up going with the HF low-profile long reach jack. The thing is a beast and definitely not something you want to be lifting in and out of your trunk at nearly 100 lbs (I think I nearly pulled a muscle in my back just unpacking it) so I'll keep the lightweight aluminum jack for track days. But it gets my car a full 2 feet up in the air (23.75" max height), high enough to set it down on some 6 ton jack stands. When I left the car jacked up overnight, I half-expected to find some San Francisco bums living under there the next day.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-L...ump-68050.html

    I've only had it a week, so can't speak to longevity, but for only $140 I don't really care and feel much better working under the car.
    Before you even start, locktite the two screws associated with the handle. One at the bottom, and the one at the top that secures the round knob.
    Just do it.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by wintershade View Post
    Just to close this out --

    I ended up going with the HF low-profile long reach jack. The thing is a beast and definitely not something you want to be lifting in and out of your trunk at nearly 100 lbs (I think I nearly pulled a muscle in my back just unpacking it) so I'll keep the lightweight aluminum jack for track days. But it gets my car a full 2 feet up in the air (23.75" max height), high enough to set it down on some 6 ton jack stands. When I left the car jacked up overnight, I half-expected to find some San Francisco bums living under there the next day.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-L...ump-68050.html

    I've only had it a week, so can't speak to longevity, but for only $140 I don't really care and feel much better working under the car.
    Cool, i've had that jack for two years now and like it a lot. So far so good. And just to double check, you better have a jack stand under the car if you're under there.

  21. #21
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    I have the HArbor freight 3T low profile, rapid pump, but NOT the high reach one. Only was another 3 or so inches, couldnt justify the version that wasn't on sale. For $89, it's QUITE a jack.

  22. #22
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    I had the Craftsman aluminum jack and it broke. Both my cheap Harbor Freight jacks are going strong after years of use. However my go to jack at home is my AC Hydraulics long reach, low profile jack. Got lucky and scored it off Craigslist a few years ago....
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