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Thread: Just Bought My First BMW - Now What to Tinker With?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    1997 Z3 2.8L

    Just Bought My First BMW - Now What to Tinker With?

    The Decision
    Well...I pulled the trigger on a 1997 2.8L with 69k miles I had been looking at for a little while now. Thanks for the advice in my previous thread. I went to take a look and was in really great condition. We started it up in his garage and it idled nice, but he didn't want to let it go out for a test drive because of the road conditions and I wouldn't buy it without driving it first. He said "Don't blame you, I wouldn't either." So, he offered to hold on to it until the weather got nice. Chatted with him for a solid hour that day. Nice guy.

    Went back today, it was a gorgeous day, sunny and 61 degrees. I went for a test spin and I couldn't believe how tight the handling was. I was sold...not even a question. I wasn't entirely sure what to expect - I had never driven a BMW before, and I had never ridden in a a convertible. This was the most fun I've ever had behind the wheel.

    Just after buying it I pulled in to the gas station to fill up and put air in the tires. I had owned the car for all of 7 minutes now and some guy came up to me and started chatting me up about BMW's and a 3 Series with an M engine he had when he was younger. Gorgeous car, it's a conversation starter. Pictures below (taken before I washed it...it was pretty dusty/dirty from sitting in his heated shed/woodshop all winter)

    The Tinkering
    I've been checking this forum pretty compulsively and planning what preventative maintenance and modifications I should consider. I would really appreciate the community's feedback on how you would prioritize this list, and if I'm missing anything important...or maybe missing something fun/neat that I don't know about. The car is completely original except for the radio. Only regular, general items have been addressed: oil, brakes, and tires. The only issues I observed are cosmetic and minor: a few paint chips up front and the black piping around the rear window has cracked and broke off at a couple places. The vehicle came off the line in Sept of 97, so that would indicate the water pump does not have the faulty plastic impeller. With that, here are the changes I am currently considering, in which order would do tackle these?


    • Cooling System Replacement
    • Ireland Engineering subframe bushings
    • Neoprene tubing to replace piping around rear window
    • Seat rocking/sliding fix
    • Supersprint muffler
    • New wheels (I find this style to be very boring)




    IMG_20170401_141441.jpg IMG_20170401_141416.jpg IMG_20170401_141454.jpg IMG_20170401_141507.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    1999 M Coupe
    Sharp car. Congrats.

    If it was me, I'd fix the sloppy seats (couple of hours) then I'd get out and drive the car. You have a good list of stuff, but nothing that can't be postponed to get some wind in your hair!
    1999 BMW M Coupe
    2002 BMW M Roadster

  3. #3
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    I'm not so sure about '97s being free of water pump problems. The composite version of the water pump was introduced later than that IIRC.

  4. #4
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    Do the shifting seats fix and tubing around rear window first.
    Not sure if at 69k cooling system replacement is needed, but you can do that as preventive maintenance.
    Everything else can wait.

    Nicer wheels would be great, make sure you get the correct offsets and do some research to get the best looking ones. Other typical visual improvements you might want to consider are:
    Get rid of amber lights, replace them with clear,
    M mirrors,
    M side grilles,
    Retrofit roll hoops with wind deflector (yours doesn't look very effective),
    Lowering the car a bit.

  5. #5
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    02 Mroady,2007 Z4 coupe
    I would fix the seat rocking and definately do the cooling system. I had a 97 and the composite impeller on the water pump exploded just driving casually down the street. Luckily I noticed the temp rising fast and pulled over and shut it off.
    it only had 60k on it at the time.

  6. #6
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    Z3 5-Speed Roadster '97
    Quote Originally Posted by rboehl View Post
    I would fix the seat rocking and definately do the cooling system. I had a 97 and the composite impeller on the water pump exploded just driving casually down the street. Luckily I noticed the temp rising fast and pulled over and shut it off.
    it only had 60k on it at the time.
    This plus....

    M Roadster Shifter 25117527254
    Shifter Lever Bushing 25111220600
    BMW M Style (ZHP) Weighted Short Shift Knob - 5 or 6 speed 25117896031*
    UUC Clutch Stop - "Big Boy" V3.0
    UUC UNLOCK VALVE CDV/Clutch Delay Valve delete kit
    Transmission Mount - Genuine BMW 22 31 6 799 331


    This will put the smile on your face by reducing shifter throw and speeding / smoothing the entire shifter experience.

    Do the suspension at 80K mile which is not too far off.
    'Sweetness Tres' M44, 1.9L Z3 5-Speed Roadster '97 Boston Green 66K Smiles Mine
    'Sweetness Too' M52, 2.5L Z3 5-Speed Roadster, '00 Jet Black 165K Smiles 2022 Gone Ins Co Total in Jan 2022- Right Front Collision - Paid $8850 !!
    'Ol' Black Betty' S52, 3.2L ///M3 5-Speed Vert '98 Cosmos Black 265K Smiles Wifeys
    M50, 2.5L 525i E34 Tragi-matic '95 Sedan Alpine White III 238K Smiles Was Daughters Mine Again
    'Gretchen' M30, 3.5L 535i E34 Tragi-matic '90 Sedan Glacier Blue/Indigo 144K Smiles 2018 Gone & I miss her
    'Sweetness' M44, 1.9L Z3 5-Speed Roadster '96 Boston Green 264K Smiles Was Mine Ins Co Total in Jan 2013- Rear End Collision - Paid $4800 !!

  7. #7
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    2x 1997 BMW Z3 2.8
    Quote Originally Posted by ZUUD BYE View Post
    This plus....

    M Roadster Shifter 25117527254
    Shifter Lever Bushing 25111220600
    BMW M Style (ZHP) Weighted Short Shift Knob - 5 or 6 speed 25117896031*
    UUC Clutch Stop - "Big Boy" V3.0
    UUC UNLOCK VALVE CDV/Clutch Delay Valve delete kit
    Transmission Mount - Genuine BMW 22 31 6 799 331


    This will put the smile on your face by reducing shifter throw and speeding / smoothing the entire shifter experience.
    This looks like very specific list, but be aware that there are other options available too you want to look at, like Whalen weighted shift knob or UUC evo3 shortshifter kit with DSSR, for example.

  8. #8
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    Mar 2017
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    1997 Z3 2.8L
    Thanks for the responses. I think I am going to prioritize the replacement of waterpump, belts, and hoses immediately.I'll tackle the seat and the rear window piping following that, quick jobs for whenever the next rainy weekend comes around.

    I'll start piecing together the other items and will probably tackle them as winter projects. Still pondering your recommendations.
    Quote Originally Posted by deni2s View Post
    Do the shifting seats fix and tubing around rear window first.
    Not sure if at 69k cooling system replacement is needed, but you can do that as preventive maintenance.
    Everything else can wait.

    Nicer wheels would be great, make sure you get the correct offsets and do some research to get the best looking ones. Other typical visual improvements you might want to consider are:
    Get rid of amber lights, replace them with clear,
    M mirrors,
    M side grilles,
    Retrofit roll hoops with wind deflector (yours doesn't look very effective),
    Lowering the car a bit.
    deni2s, I like your thoughts on losing the amber lights, seems pretty 90's. I thought the wind deflector was fine, I was surprised at how well I was able to carry a conversation with my cousin while going 60 mph...but I have no real reference, never ridden in a convertible before. HWhat's the difference between M side mirrors and mine?

    Quote Originally Posted by ZUUD BYE View Post
    This plus....

    M Roadster Shifter 25117527254
    Shifter Lever Bushing 25111220600
    BMW M Style (ZHP) Weighted Short Shift Knob - 5 or 6 speed 25117896031*
    UUC Clutch Stop - "Big Boy" V3.0
    UUC UNLOCK VALVE CDV/Clutch Delay Valve delete kit
    Transmission Mount - Genuine BMW 22 31 6 799 331


    This will put the smile on your face by reducing shifter throw and speeding / smoothing the entire shifter experience.

    Do the suspension at 80K mile which is not too far off.
    Zuud, for the shifter, I want to spend some more time in the car getting used to it...I'll revisit your shifter recommendation.

  9. #9
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    2x 1997 BMW Z3 2.8
    Quote Originally Posted by LimehouseBlues View Post
    deni2s, I like your thoughts on losing the amber lights, seems pretty 90's. I thought the wind deflector was fine, I was surprised at how well I was able to carry a conversation with my cousin while going 60 mph...but I have no real reference, never ridden in a convertible before. HWhat's the difference between M side mirrors and mine?
    Main difference is the price More subtle is the more rounded shape of M's. Good wind deflector should eliminate all the wind inside the car (hint: does your cousin have long hair?). Your wind deflector looks placed too low for that.
    Last edited by deni2s; 04-02-2017 at 02:48 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    McLean, VA
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    02 MC, 01 MR, 99 Z3C
    Congrats on the new ride. My 97 was built in April, so just a few months before yours. The water pump has a metal impeller, but the bearings are still a potential failure point, so that along with the plastic radiator, expansion tank, and all the rubber hoses really should be done first if you plan enthusiastic driving this summer.

    Your style 18 wheels look like 16"s but I could be wrong. My first mod was 18" ASA AR1 wheels, though many would say 17's are probably the sweet spot for the handling/price/weight combination. I agree that the urethane subframe bushing upgrade transformed the handling more than any other mod. In my case however I did the swap at the same time as a TC Kline SA coilover suspension. After all other maintenance is done, if you come across a 3.46 diff, do the swap. My 2.8 now starts very crisply and I can hold on against M cars at autocross events.
    Kelvin

  11. #11
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    Z3 5-Speed Roadster '97
    Quote Originally Posted by deni2s View Post
    This looks like very specific list, but be aware that there are other options available too you want to look at, like Whalen weighted shift knob or UUC evo3 shortshifter kit with DSSR, for example.
    It is relatively cheap & the shifter components all BMW OEM, just $200 for main components and say $80 ish for the rest, tranny mounts are OEM and really maintenance but you will feel the difference when braking hard while turning looking to down or up shift even on a car with 69K sMiles and 20 year old rubber components.

    These few simple changes will reduce the shifter throw by almost 50% and increase the shifting experience by 100%.

    UUC evo3 shortshifter kit with DSSR $450 ish
    Whalen weighted shift knob $150 ish
    If money's no object then things are different. Just my opinion thou.
    'Sweetness Tres' M44, 1.9L Z3 5-Speed Roadster '97 Boston Green 66K Smiles Mine
    'Sweetness Too' M52, 2.5L Z3 5-Speed Roadster, '00 Jet Black 165K Smiles 2022 Gone Ins Co Total in Jan 2022- Right Front Collision - Paid $8850 !!
    'Ol' Black Betty' S52, 3.2L ///M3 5-Speed Vert '98 Cosmos Black 265K Smiles Wifeys
    M50, 2.5L 525i E34 Tragi-matic '95 Sedan Alpine White III 238K Smiles Was Daughters Mine Again
    'Gretchen' M30, 3.5L 535i E34 Tragi-matic '90 Sedan Glacier Blue/Indigo 144K Smiles 2018 Gone & I miss her
    'Sweetness' M44, 1.9L Z3 5-Speed Roadster '96 Boston Green 264K Smiles Was Mine Ins Co Total in Jan 2013- Rear End Collision - Paid $4800 !!

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    2000 BMW Z3 Roadster 2.5
    Quote Originally Posted by ZUUD BYE View Post
    This plus....

    M Roadster Shifter 25117527254
    Shifter Lever Bushing 25111220600
    BMW M Style (ZHP) Weighted Short Shift Knob - 5 or 6 speed 25117896031*
    UUC Clutch Stop - "Big Boy" V3.0
    UUC UNLOCK VALVE CDV/Clutch Delay Valve delete kit
    Transmission Mount - Genuine BMW 22 31 6 799 331


    This will put the smile on your face by reducing shifter throw and speeding / smoothing the entire shifter experience.

    Do the suspension at 80K mile which is not too far off.
    Does that shifter fit in a 2000 Z3 2.5 roadster? Websites say no but I don't know if this is a custom fit. If not, what are some options?

    Sent from my Galaxy S8 using Tapatalk

  13. #13
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    1997 Z3 2.8L
    One year later update:

    Thanks to everyone for the input. I've taken care of the following and am enjoying the car quite a bit:



    • Seat bushings
    • Reinforced glove box
    • Water pump
    • Belts
    • Aluminum pump pulleys
    • New tires - Continental super sports. very nice, great value
    • Supersprint muffler
    • Replaced piping around rear window w/ rubber tubing
    • Clear side markers


    Next:
    • Front sway bar (bit of a compulsive purchase...the price seemed good)


    After that (not started):
    • Subframe bushings (any other suspension bushings you'd tackle at the same time?)


    Thinking about:
    • Koni shocks/struts + H&R sport springs. Thoughts? I am concerned about ride being stiff for day to day use/cruising.



    Dead/backburnered:
    • 17" wheels. Expensive and only cosmetic. Got other priorities.
    • Roll bars. Would like to do this for safety but it looks like a lot of work to source the trim pieces needed. Will try junkyard route when I got spare time.
    • Short throw shifter. Just not a priority.
    • 3.42 geared diff. Concerned about daily use - How is 5th gear on the highway?
    • M mirrors. I don't mind these, I guess.

  14. #14
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    99 M Coupe LS Swap
    I would replace:
    TA bushings while you have the subframe out for the Irelands.
    Front pivot points and LCA bushings.
    Struts and Shocks.
    You sound like one who like to tinker and drive the car. An oil cooler may be of benefit depending on your level of use.
    Enjoy the ride.
    Dan "PbFut" Rose

  15. #15
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    Subframe bushings should absolutely be next. The best mod you can do, and not expensive. I also put Conti's and Koni's on my M. The SF bushings made the most difference, and they were the cheapest. You don't have to take the SF out completely to do them. Just read up on it first. It's not hard, just takes some time; just figure the better part of a day.

  16. #16
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    Konis and H&R is a baaaaddddd combination. The H&R rears are way too soft, leading to lots of bottoming. Bilsteins prop them up some, but then you get the famous Bilstein jarring ride.


    /.randy

  17. #17
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    Konis and stock springs work pretty well. I didn't want to mess with wheel alignment issues from lowering springs. (I had done that on another car.) I didn't even know about the H&R rears bottoming.

  18. #18
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    I also have a 97 2.8 5spd and I installed a 3.46 diff out of an 02 3.0 auto and the off the line response is noticeably quicker. The tradeoff is that the engine now runs at higher revs at highway speeds so fuel economy has worsened. Not a big deal unless you are driving 1000+ miles to ZFest or some other gathering.

    I would have recommended replacing your radiator and expansion tank when you did the water pump just because you were already there and had drained the coolant. Both are plastic and are likely pretty brittle now and are prone to sudden failure. I am mildly surprised (okay shocked) that Randy did not recommend that you delete the mechanical fan.

    I did the roll hoop retrofit and I also have a beige interior. The beige trim pieces are harder to find than the black ones. I feel the car looked cleaner without the hoops though I had a lot of fun doing the retrofit and ultimately glad I did it now that I auto cross the car and can use the OEM windscreen. Go visit LeatherZ for some interior upgrades like armrest pads for the out board armrest and maybe a Mark II center armrest.

    I don't think the short throw shifter is necessary, but a shorter weighted knob is a tactile improvement. Consider either a ZHP or a Whalen Shift Machine.

    I agree that subframe bushings are the single best dynamic improvement you can make and will protect your subframe spot welds from failing. When you do your shocks, don't forget the rear shock mounts too. Rogue Engineering makes good ones where the nuts are accessed from beneath the car in the wheel well, making subsequent shock replacements less tedious.

    A zero cost cosmetic change would be to remove the black vinyl tape applied to the windshield surround. There is clear coat paint under there. Up to you.

    Interesting that a 9/97 build date is still a 97 model. I would have thought a car built that late would be a 98.
    Last edited by KBH22102; 04-23-2018 at 09:05 PM.
    Kelvin

  19. #19
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    Thanks for the feedback on the springs. I wasn't able to find a lot of ride detail on that particular combination. I'll probably wait until I can get a deal on shocks and struts...mine really feel like they're in good shape still. And, getting new tires made a nice difference...I had never heard of the brand the prior owner had on there. They were worn down and rode like shit.

    Koni suspension setup

    Right not for parts it's:
    $196 per strut and $97 per shock = $586 subtotal -$50 mfr rebate = $536

    I haven't been look at pricing for very long...not sure if that's decent or just normal.

    ---------------------------

    As far as the cooling system...yeah I guess I could have done radiator and other components at the same time...thought about it. But nothing is leaking right now, whatsoever, and even the radiator hoses felt very pliable still. The water pump was preventative...but because of the potential for a catastrophic level failure and somewhat common reports of replacement needed, I decided to pull the trigger on it and belts. For the other items, if it ain't broke...
    Last edited by LimehouseBlues; 04-24-2018 at 09:50 AM.

  20. #20
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    Be aware that the rubber piping is part of the window, not just a trim piece. If you took the rubber off and replaced it with rubber tube, the window may leak. Keep an eye on it. You may need to just replace the window. It's not hard, and not too expensive either.

    I put these wheels on mine... 17s from a 5 series.
    IMG_4514.jpg

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by LimehouseBlues View Post
    For the other items, if it ain't broke...
    ...don't fix it until it leaves you stranded

    Going into my TENTH YEAR of providing high quality reproduction BMW fabrics!

    PRICE CUT on ALL FABRICS
    Offering the best prices on the best quality reproduction fabrics!

  22. #22
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    Price is about right, within a few dollars of others. I buy from Pelican when prices are close because they have write-ups that help me do the work. That $50 rebate is worth waiting for (if not in effect right now). I don't think "pliable" is a good measure of an old radiator hose. When they get thin, and thus ready to give, they are very pliable.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post
    ...don't fix it until it leaves you stranded
    This is a good philosophy. You don't have to clog up your garage with cars and parts. You can fix it alongside the highway in 110 degree heat.

    And look at this, you lucky devil. (Caveat: I don't know whether age hurts them) https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...frame-Bushings
    Last edited by zellamay; 04-24-2018 at 10:15 AM.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by LimehouseBlues View Post
    ...
    • Short throw shifter. Just not a priority...
    Buy the ZHP knob. Just that will change the feel of the car. I drove my M home with the stock knob, then put the ZHP knob I had on the E36 M3 I sold a year earlier on the car. I took the ZHP knob off a few days ago because I am selling the car, and it will go on the E46 323Ci I am tidying up with my daughter. I have one on my 128i, and put one on my E39 540i that my friend now has. I have to pull it off because he plans on selling the car. That reminds me I have to find a wood 6 speed knob.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by zellamay View Post
    Konis and stock springs work pretty well. I didn't want to mess with wheel alignment issues from lowering springs. (I had done that on another car.) I didn't even know about the H&R rears bottoming.
    Arent you lower with your M than the OP is with his non M. The only damage to my car is the fangs on the front. I would almost give up a little height to not have to practically stop to go over a speed bump.


    I'm too old to learn how to drive an automatic.

  24. #24
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    Ouch! If I get stranded due to cooling failure I'll let you guys be the first ones to tell me "I told you so"

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tommm View Post
    Buy the ZHP knob. Just that will change the feel of the car.
    +1, was going to say the exact same thing.

    I put the ZHP Knob on (the previous aftermarket was ridiculous), and it was night/day.

    Cheap upgrade that changes a lot to the experience!

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