TTFS Dcan cable does not work. 540i e39 SC.

[tptrsn]

For what ever reason Frank has had trouble getting fuel in after 6100rpm on these TU motors, the non-VANOS motors dont seem to be a problem though.

I might be remembering this wrong, but it seems to me that Philly has been leaning out in the higher RPMs also, but not nearly to this extent. Plus, he's making significantly more boost. AND, he's injecting some methanol also, so without that he'd be even leaner.

[philly98540]

I'm totally confused. Wth is no load?

[dovlet]

I'm totally confused. Wth is no load?

Fill, i meant when my car is staying and i push the gas pedal i have 10 psi boost on gauge 6500rpm. When i am on any gear 6500rpm giving me 3psi. What is wrong with my system? Can you please advise?

[Zep]

Do some 4th gear pulls and log as much as you can. does you boost gauge have a data port? Try a cheap analog gauge and see what it says.

[philly98540]

Mine is not lean up top.

[geargrinder]

Confused about the screenshots of gauge.

It appears in both cases the actual needle for the boost gauge shows the same thing - something like -.18bar, aka a little vaccum in both cases. Not sure what the digital readout at the bottom is?

How is your diverter / bypass valve plumbed? Wondering if you have something funny there. If you can post pictures of your setup that might be easier to understand.

[dovlet]

Confused about the screenshots of gauge.

It appears in both cases the actual needle for the boost gauge shows the same thing - something like -.18bar, aka a little vaccum in both cases. Not sure what the digital readout at the bottom is?
Why you are not paying attention on marked digits? That js real pressure. Needle is not working.
How is your diverter / bypass valve plumbed? Wondering if you have something funny there. If you can post pictures of your setup that might be easier to understand.

Changed diverter. Same. Pictures will be attached.

One more time. When i am on neutral position of my gear 6500rpm gives me 0.65bar or 10psi. When i am on any gear 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6 at 6500rpm my boost gauge shows me 0.2bar or 3 psi.

[geargrinder]

Yesh you've said that. But the needle on the boost gauge shows something different than the numbers at the bottom. The needle does not show either 3 or 10 psi. How does that gauge work anyway?

[tptrsn]

I noticed something looked funky between those gauges, but I couldn't tell what was going on there either.. This is why I'm not a tuner for hire!

[dovlet]

Yesh you've said that. But the needle on the boost gauge shows something different than the numbers at the bottom. The needle does not show either 3 or 10 psi. How does that gauge work anyway?

Bro, boost gauge body has deformation due to high temperature of our weather. Direct sun made it melt. Digital part is working very well and corect.

[dovlet]

Gents, can you please check on you Supercharged engines your boost pressure on any gear when engine 6000rpm.
I checked everywhere but did not find any leak in system. Still cannot understand why boost gauge shows 10psi pressure when i am full load engine up to 6500rpm and shows 3psi when i am on any gear (123456) at 6500rpm. Do you have the same?

My opinion is when i shift any gear and load the engine my engine starts to increase consumption of air and due to that SC cannot supply air saffitient. Is that right? Al SC owners has the same?

[geargrinder]

shows 10psi pressure when i am full load engine up to 6500rpm and
shows 3psi when i am on any gear (123456) at 6500rpm.

Errrghz. Confuzin. Full load? Don't you mean:

no-load (neutral) 6500rpm = 10psi

and

full-load (any gear, WOT on-road) 6500rpm = 3psi

I thought that's what you've been saying.

If your bypass valve was rigged wrong maybe you could see symptoms like that. Like if it was given pre-throttle plate instead of manifold vacuum it would not bypass at no-load, it'd build full boost at no load (i.e. bad). It should still build boost under load in that case but at least it would explain one half of the equation.

I want to know exactly:
- How your bypass valve is rigged.
- How your boost gauge is rigged.

That's why i asked for pix.

[dovlet]

5112017172637.jpg

Errrghz. Confuzin. Full load? Don't you mean:

no-load (neutral) 6500rpm = 10psi

and

full-load (any gear, WOT on-road) 6500rpm = 3psi

I thought that's what you've been saying.

Exactly

If your bypass valve was rigged wrong maybe you could see symptoms like that. Like if it was given pre-throttle plate instead of manifold vacuum it would not bypass at no-load, it'd build full boost at no load (i.e. bad). It should still build boost under load in that case but at least it would explain one half of the equation.

I want to know exactly:
- How your bypass valve is rigged.
- How your boost gauge is rigged.

That's why i asked for pix.

This is my diverter valve

[dovlet]

Attachment 602212
Above is my diverter

[dovlet]

Do some 4th gear pulls and log as much as you can. does you boost gauge have a data port? Try a cheap analog gauge and see what it says.

Read logs and sent to Frank. My boost gauge has no data port. Tried chip analog pressure gauge. Same.

[dovlet]

Ok. May be below will give you some idea.
Today i removed diverter by pass valve and put HKS blow off valve. Works greate and sound is nice to hear pish pish pish.....
Started full load on 1st gear. Gauge read Max 3psi. 2nd gear full load 3psi. 4 has the similar results on top end.

Then decided give load easy step by step. 2000rpm 4000rpm 6000rpm and pressure was 10psi. 3rd gear and started to increase rpm slowly step by step. Again 10psi at the redline. Then droped rpms to 4000 and noted about 6psi, then quick full load and again same picture. 3-4psi. LOOKS LIKE BELT IS NOT HOLDING....

[philly98540]

Sounds like Boost Gauge tapped into charge pipe. Should be to manifold.

[dovlet]

Sounds like Boost Gauge tapped into charge pipe. Should be to manifold.

My boos gauge is place on pipe between SC and engine as marked on picture below.
Screenshot_20170612-103606.jpg

You meant it should be installed after throtle body?

[dovlet]

Ok, looks like my belt is slipping. Removed my SC and going to machine shop to instal new thread to pickup little bit my tensioner. Lets see what will happen. If then still belt will be slipping will be constract something like Phile made.
512201714354.jpg20170612_142652_resized.jpg20170612_142805_resized.jpg20170612_142632_resized.jpg20170612_142658_resized.jpg

[philly98540]

Yeah, wrong spot for boost gauge. Must be after throttle body. Most connect to rear of manifold.

[geargrinder]

Yes. I thought that might be the case. Boost gauge is totally wrong.

The diverter valve pictures are not posting - again please post that. I Suspect similar mistake in plumbing type issue there.

Do NOT run a blow off valve. Makes your car sounds like a douche , but more importantly the tune is a MAF based tune / ECU and a blow off valve totally screws the MAF readings and makes Franks attempts to tweak pointless. BPV will work FINE if connected properly. Douche nuggets that slam BOV's on cuz they cant figure out some other problem are generally doomed to a life of misery and poorly build malfunctioning everything. Its kinda like "i have a health problem and feel terrible but ill just take some cocaine cuz it makes me feel better!" Not solving the problem. Not good for things in the long term.

[dovlet]

5112017172637.jpg
Her you are. So, today i made tentioner tighter and have 0.45bar which means about 6psi. Better than befor and looks like i had slipping my belt. Today am going to drive and test. Lets see if there is improvments.

[dovlet]

Gents, does some of you have testo logs for m62b44 SC Frank tune runing? I want just compare air consumption vs rpm. Also, mine is too lean afer 6000rpm. Something between 15-17 above 6000rpm.

[tptrsn]

Something between 15-17 above 6000rpm.

I just want to repeat because I'm not sure you understand the gravity of the situation, those AFRs in boost are asking for an engine failure. And I'm not a guy who's always worrying about an engine, because I know they can often withstand a lot of abuse... But that is really asking for it!

[philly98540]

Some logs in one of my threads, but those are before my final pulley and injector I'm running now. Also my car is different ECU, pre vanos. Mcniblts was only one iirc that was similar to yours, but hes not around much anymore.


As Tp said, do not run your car at wot with AFR over 12.5.

If your on 42's, there should be plenty of fuel available if upper bins in tune are set correctly and fuel pressure is good. Mcniblts never upped his redline that high iirc, so I'm not sure anyone with your set up ever got a full tune from Frank with that redline. I may be wrong though.