Couple weeks later decided to tackle the exhaust.
Got a new cat and ANSA sport muffler.
Painted the new cat but half the paint already burned off. Wasn't expecting much.
Found a "great deal" on this for $80 but man it did not fit like OE as it says it should.
I ended up bolting it up to the exhaust manifold.
Then took some ratchet straps and bent it towards the drivers side.
Had 4 or them maxed out bending it.
I also had to bend one of the stock exhaust test ports as it was welded on with to much angle hitting the sheet metal.
Fits like OE now lol. Even go the trans exhaust mount to line up.
Oh i wish i could have found a new pipe section between the muffler and the cat.
It is rattling due to the heat shield.
Also i have never had a gasket be so hard to remove in my life.
Must have been original.
They had bonded themselves to the flange.
I had to get my grinder out to get it off.
It was the same for the exhaust flange.......
I tried to just bolt it on nice and tight and hoped for the best as i didn't want to unbolt the manifold at the time.
But it leaked.
So next weekend i did the manifold.
Luckily all the bolts came out super easy form the head.
I say bolts as the nuts where fused to the studs lol.
I had gotten an OEM BMW gasket but look at this fit.
Manifold was made poorly.
I made my own gasket from a sheet of compressible graphite.
Just off set the bolt holes some.
Cleaned up and ready.
I chased all the holes to get the dirt out.
Loctite the new studs. These had a much tighter tolerance on the thread as they were harder to go back in.
All done.
Got the better heat shield style exhaust gasket.
No leaks!
What are you using to cover the spark plug wires? I would like to use something similar.
Great work!
Thanks.
Fiberglass spark tube cover like these here.
I think these where originaly dei brand but there isn't any real difference to these.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HIGH-HEAT-S...25.m3641.l6368
Also redid my WUR pressures.
Ending up having to bump the warm side out some.
Had to be creative with a way to cradle it.
I also flattened both flanges near the oring to make sure there were no high spots tocreat perfect flat seal.
No real reason just felt like doing this while adjusting my pressures.
Cold is now 26psi at 75 degrees and 50psi when warmed.
It runs soooo much smoother at idle.
I also welded na O2 bung for a wide band on my new cat pipe.
I will hook that up and tweak my fuel ratio this week.
My only issue now is a hard hot start.
I pretty sure it is the thermo time switch.
When its cold it starts fine.
After driving it is hard to start but if i unplug the thermo switch it will start instantly.
Same goes for if i leave it unplugged in the morning it is hard to start but starts great hot.
Cheapest i could find one was $160... ouch.
Ended up getting the Thermo switch for 130.
I hooked up my wide-band and proceeded to try and fine tune the car.
First go i tuned the idle to 14.7 AFR.
But as soon as it goes above 1500 rpm I'm in the 17.0 to 17.4 AFR range.
As the rpms raise the leaner it goes.
So i enriched the mixture.
Now at idle I'm at 12.6 to 12.9 AFR.
But as soon as it goes above 1500 rpm I'm in the 16.3 to 17.1 AFR range.
When i floor it the AFR drops to around 15.8.
I'm thinking that my WUR pressure must be off even though i just set it the other weekend.
Any advice would be super helpful.
Update over the last couple months.
Moved my WUR fuel issue to a separate thread.
I upgraded my alternator.
BOSCH AL49X from a 1986 325.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/bo...generator,2412
95 amps and it gets rid of the bushings.
Mainly did this because the bushings even with poly let the alternator move to much causing belt issues.
The swap is pretty straight forward.
Only thing is you need to crimp a bigger eyelet for the power wire and change the spade on the D+ wire to an eyelet as well.
It fits right in to the lower bracket using original bolt.
I used the geared adjusting bar 12311273638.
I'm pretty sure you can use the original one if you don't want to buy this.
I got it to make tensioning the belt easier.
Also used parts,7,22,21 in the diagram on realoem.
Part 10 want work with the 325 alternator as it needs to be a bit longer.
I bought a pack of 90mm carriage bolts from mcmaster to make it work.
I initial used a stainless bolt from home depot till these arrived.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=12_0129
I reused a larger fairly thick washer from the old alternator.
Placed between the geared bracket and the alternator.
That way the bracket was perfectly level.
You could possible run the carriage bolt from the 328 if you don't use that washer.
Idealy you would need a 85mm bolt. I couldn't find one so 90mm it is.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=12_0186
The belt is a gates 17405.
Fits perfect. Leaves you with a inch at the end of the gear teeth on the tensioning bracket when tight.
Cant vouch for other brands as the can vary in actual length.
This way no grinding is involved.
The belt in the picture worked but was really to long maxing out the travel of the tensioner.
Don't have a picture with the proper belt or bolt since changing them.
Oh damn. Nice upgrade and documentation. Did you have to eat the core cost since returning a different model?
'81 E21 320i / '90 E30 325i / '̶9̶2̶ ̶E̶3̶4̶ ̶5̶2̶5̶i̶t (sold) / '15 Toyota XW30 / '̶̶8̶0̶ ̶E̶2̶1̶ ̶3̶2̶0̶i̶A̶ (sold)
Been awhile.
Haven't been driving the BMW as I bought a mk6 GTI.
I was planning on probably selling the car as i really don't have the space for.
A dead tree decided to fall on it and damaged it pretty good.
Insurance wont cover the damage.
Trying to weigh my options to just sell it as is or have the dents fixed and paint the car.
I have a shop with a paint booth so I would paint it my self. Might have to farm out some of the dent repair though.
Just trying to weigh my options on if its worth it or not.
Any thoughts on the value of the car as is or repainted?
It runs great no issues there.
Thanks
Michael
damn. hate to see this. you could source a new hood for little $$ and paint to match but that dent on the roof and door trim...just damn
sorry man
Damn, that sucks. Given the immense amount of work you've put into this car I wouldn't say get to rid of it. Ultimately it's your call though. The roof is likely going to be the most expensive because you really have to fix it and not just replace panels and repaint.
Heartbreaking ending. So sorry to see this. You chronicled some fantastic work and photos! What did you end up doing with the car? Still have it?
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