Thanks for the info.
Went and took it apart to inspect.
Found some lovely surprises.
Plus this support bar was not attached to anything.
Probably was the source of my an awful rattle.
Bare wires were just sitting like that behind the console!
Anyone off hand tell me what they go to?
I found the relay for the AC.
I tested for ground. Was good.
Jumped power to the opposite side of the coil.
It clicked and powered everything up!
After doing this the knob now activates the relay like its suppose to.
I guess the inside of the relay had corroded together?
Probably should get a new relay.
I will try it out on the drive to work tomorrow and see how it performs.
Also looks like there is adjustment screws to tweak for when the compressor will cycle.
Last edited by osburn383; 07-24-2017 at 10:07 PM.
Really great thread! Cannot wait to see the car finished!
_________
1980 320i - Kashmir Metallic - Sold in 1993
1985 535i - Cosmosblau Metallic - Sold in 1995
1985 535i - 1985-06 - Delphin Metallic - Sold in 2016
1983 320i - 1982-09 - Kashmir Metallic - Currently own!
2004 ZHP - 2003-08 - Titanium Metallic - Currently own!
2000 M5 - 2000-02 Titanium Silver - Currently own!
wow, great deal on the taillights!
whats the source?
Got them here.
http://www.nos-parts.com/Taillight-u...E21)-1980-1982.
I was mistaken on price.
The ones in the picture cost me $132 shipped from Norway. Frico Brand ( not sure if thats how you spell will have to look at the lights later)
They fit great look 99 percent the same.
I had also bought one left oem taillight assembly on ebay from Austria for $80 shipped.
Last edited by osburn383; 07-26-2017 at 12:00 AM.
Does any body off hand know what this might have went to originally?
I was looking through the schematics but didn't see the blue wires. Might have found the yellow red in the heater section.
Might be the original wires for speed control and the dealer ac install tech did this?
This section seems to have the right colors.
The speed of than fan works fine.
Last edited by osburn383; 07-26-2017 at 01:44 PM.
Speakers?
If you want music, leave the old wiring dead, common ground systems will make a modern amp and head unit suck.
-John
Last edited by osburn383; 07-30-2017 at 09:23 PM.
I'm a new owner too!
Woohoo! we're in a club! Hope that 5spd works out for you, the thing is geared amazingly well to keep me from getting impounded
Currently owns:
'82 BMW E21 320i // '87 Volvo 240dl wagon // '99 BMW E46 325i (currently has blown rod bearing)
previously owned:
'97 BMW E39 528i - death by suspension failure & insurance -_- // '86 Volvo 240dl sedan - death by turning left :'( // '99 BMW E46 328i - death by t-bone :'(
will own eventually *crosses fingers*rx7fd3s - left hand drive // s-chassis (240sx/s13/14/15) w/ rb26dett swap (maybe....starting to lose interest) // porsche gt3 // some kind of Land Rover
*why pay someone else for the fun of turning a wrench?
*the proper level of boost is whatever is higher than your tyre pressure
Time to do the wheel bearings.
Had a ticking coming from the driver side wheel.
Super dirty.
You can seal the seal as long stopped doing its job with all the grim.
I used the rotor as holder for the hub.
Used a seal puller to extract the seal. Been a handy tool over the years.
Used a socket on an extension to knock out the small race.
Then used a large flat head and hammer to knock out the larger race.
Cleaned and painted.
I rented a bearing driver set from Autozone.
Makes putting in the races super straight forward.
Packed the bearings up with nice quality grease.
Installed.
I followed what several threads recommended on tightening the castle nut.
Tightened to 22ft/lbs while spinning the hub.
Back off the nut, then tightened to 2ft/lbs.
The backed the nut off to the first hole to put the cotter pin through.
Well all seems good.
It got rid of the ticking!
I will probably recheck the nuts in about a week.
Last edited by osburn383; 08-06-2017 at 11:58 PM.
Well the passenger side was to loose.
Went to the next cotter pin hole and seems good now.
Now i have a ticking in the rear.....
I jacked it up and put the car in gear.
Cant really hear the ticking.
Seems like it needs a load.
My diff whine/whirr is getting louder though and could be the cause of some of the ticking noise.If I spin one tire by hand the diff makes a noticeable repetitive clunking noise.
When both tires are going the same direction it barely makes any noise.
I am searching for a good used diff now to try and replace it.
I need to check the cv axles to make sure they are not clicking.
Not sure on this.
Just repack cv axle and see. Looks like no new ones are available anymore.
I did experience a very loud repetitive metal clunking sound when cornering very hard left.
Last edited by osburn383; 08-17-2017 at 01:28 PM.
I would guess cv before the diff, have you done a fluid change?
-John
Going to try and get under it and inspect more thoroughly this weekend.
Changed the diff fluid a few weeks back.
- - - Updated - - -
No this is VHT Black Epoxy Paint.
Sprays nicely and cures fast.
There is a 2k Black paint for aimed at hotrodders i would like to try out some time, but the $22 a can price holds me back.
I have the same model automatic 3 speed appox 150k on the clock. When I drive over 50 mph the car has a noticeable humming whirring noise form the rear of the car_ driver side, drives fine otherwise. How much noise is normal? Dif fluid has been changed.
Been a bit since updating any work.
Been daily driving it for months now without o much issue.
Sorry no pictures this time.
I did install front a rear st sway bars.
That made a huge improvement on the feel of the car.
Much more stable while driving normal and spirited.
Installed a Ireland "Alpina" Front brace.
Seemed to help but couldn't tell any better feel than what the sway bars had given me.
Main Issue.
I have been having trouble with the front wheel bearings.
I replaced both front sides several months back as they where making this clicking sound.
You could hear is going straight but was more pronounced when turning.
They seemed better for awhile.
They started to make more noise again so i put skf bearing in instead of the national bearings.
I followed the BMW procedure Where you rotate hub while tightening to about 26 foot pounds
Then back off. Tighten to 2 foot pounds and back off to next available cotter pin hole. While having the washer move behind the nut.
There feels like there is to much play when rocking the wheel from the 12 and 6 o-clock position.
They make more noise now especially when turning.
If i tighten the castle nut any more i am no longer able to move the washer behind the nut.
Really at a loss on this. Any help would be much appreciated.
Sooooo i figured out my wheel bearing issue.
I was my chrome wheel trim rings making all the noise........
Perfectly quite now driving through the neighborhood.
Looks good!
_________
1980 320i - Kashmir Metallic - Sold in 1993
1985 535i - Cosmosblau Metallic - Sold in 1995
1985 535i - 1985-06 - Delphin Metallic - Sold in 2016
1983 320i - 1982-09 - Kashmir Metallic - Currently own!
2004 ZHP - 2003-08 - Titanium Metallic - Currently own!
2000 M5 - 2000-02 Titanium Silver - Currently own!
Los Angeles transplant here, but native to the 205. Cheers
Looks really good. Great job!
Some work from the past month or so.
Rebooted and greased the axles.
The old. Starting to dry rot the rubber.
Got the axles off without to much trouble.
I would suggest a friend to help spin the tires and pull the e-brake so you dont have to get up and down a million times.
Getting those covers off to re-grease was more work than i had anticipated.
Cleaned and ready for new grease.
Ready to reinstall.
Had gotten a low mile diff to replace my whining diff but it ended up having a pinon bearing whirring noise.
Then i got a second one and same.
Put the original back in and no pinon noise but same old whine.
I will come back to the diff later when i do a 5 speed swap.
It looks nice all painted and cleaned to bad it needs a rebuild.
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