New Owner 1981 320i

[mjweimer]

osburn383 - an impressive collection of work here.

Glad to know that I am not the only one who can get sucked into the space/time continuum of "while I'm in here....".


When I disassembled my throttle body I was surprised to find the throttle plate shaft was supported by bearings rather than bushings. Really goes to show how well engineered these cars were for the time.


Enjoying the posts, keep up the good work.


MJ

[osburn383]

Thanks!
Yeah i couldn't just leave it like it was underneath the manifold.
Hopefully this way nothing has to come back off for a long time.

Oh yeah noticed that to. Tiny little roller bearing.

[osburn383]

Ran into a problem with the coolant divider.
Realoem and BMW part site both say that part 11531267535 supercedes it, but it does not fit.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...&diagId=11_064



11531261528 is the original that is NLA.



The e30 318i divider looks like it could work. 11531274009
One on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-BMW-318...-/311847431268
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_0683




Unless someone has one they could sell me as mine has to much corrosion to save it. Unless i cut of the barb and weld new ones on.

[osburn383]

While waiting on sourcing a coolant divider I did a little work.

All new hoses.
With McMasterCarr sourced full stainless hose clamps.
Same style clamp as OE.
BMW clamps have zinc screws that rust over time. This will outlast the car now.

​

[osburn383]

A little wiring i did today as well.

Some fresh boots for several plugs.




Here you can see whats left of a rotten boot.
Plus all the corrosion that has gotten in it due to the busted boot.





With the new boot on.
I thought i took a picture of cleaning the contacts, but I did not.
I use battery terminal cleaner first and if its severe corrosion i use the rust removal gel.
The rust removal gel is a little aggressive so don't leave it on to long.
Then coat the terminals with dielectric grease.





On the agenda for tomorrow is to run a new wire for the alternator.
As you can see it was damaged and corrosion leeched in pretty heavily.
The yellow wire was a band aid for it rigged up by the previous owner.

[osburn383]

I have this one from my '82 parts car if you want it, $20 shipped. It might have to wait till Fri or Sat till I could ship it. It's not corrosion free but better than what you have. I can't seem to get a good pic as my camera refuses to focus, it's always blurry. I probably have a better one in the garage on my spare engine if you're looking for the best condition you can find.

Thanks but the e30 one i picked up off eBay looks like it will work.


Has a few pits but no holes.
You can still get the e30 one new it just pricey at around $120.

Luckily me stainless plug from the first one fits the one sensor hole on the end.
I ordered a BMW plug for the other hole.

You can easily see the new one doesn't have the taper to the right hence why it doesn't fit.

[osburn383]

Got the coolant divider from the e30 fixed up and installed.
A little jb weld marine in the pits after a acid bath to remove the oxidation.
Just need to get a smaller plug to delete that extra sensor.

[osburn383]

A little wire clean up.
Made a new alternator wire from 6 gauge.
Cut out any green corrosion and sealed the ends with glue lined heat shrink.






Cleaned the original alternator ground and shrink wrapped it so its stops soaking up oil.





Starting to look like a engine again.

[osburn383]

Made some progress.
Got almost everything reconnected.






Primed and tested the fuel system without injectors to make sure all 4 are flowing the same.






Then i took a couple steps backward after breaking an injector.
Was doing the back flush cleaning and the valve popped out.
So... screw it. All new injectors will be here Friday.

[osburn383]

Was adding some coolant and noticed the corrosion and cracking.
New one on the way.
Never seen a metal seal at the top like that.

[82Kashmir]

New Owner as well 82 820i Auto - 9/2016. Reading thru your post has been informative. My injectors are up next when time permits they seem really stuck tried once getting them out but backed off. Any tips for getting them out?

[osburn383]

New Owner as well 82 820i Auto - 9/2016. Reading thru your post has been informative. My injectors are up next when time permits they seem really stuck tried once getting them out but backed off. Any tips for getting them out?

Thanks.

Yeah mine where baked in and brittle.
I used a hooked pick to grab it and pull them out.
You just have to be careful. I did it with the manifold off though.
I made sure the valve was shut as to not let pieces fall in. Then used a vacuum to suck any pieces that fell in.
Even after that there was baked on material to the side wall i had to slowly remove be various picks and cleaners.

[osburn383]

Question for a High Control pressure issue.
I have the gauge set connected.
It reads the exact same whether i shut the valve to the WUR or not. 67psi.

I then did some reading.
I first looked for a blockage.
I loosened the return fitting at the WUR and pressure drops instantly.
I did the banjo bolt at the distributor from the WUR and have pressure drop.
Then i loosened the main return banjo bolt and no change in pressure.

I removed all banjo bolts and the fuel pressure spring and flushed it out with the pump for a second.
Still same issue.

To note i have yet to punch the pin down some to set the cold control pressure.

Can the fuel return banjo bolt from the WUR at he distributor have a blockage internally to the main return banjo bolt?

[mxl556]

Beware of low quality radiator caps. I had mine replaced not too long ago and it got all rusty under the seal and started leaking. I was worried that I have a blown headgasket or something as there was rust in a coolant and temperature was not consistent. It turned out to be low quality cap. Good quality cap fixed the problem.

Where did you get these boots for wiring connectors?

Max

[82Kashmir]

Ok gonna give it a go been lubing the old injector o ring will some lucas every other week or so trying to soften it some, car runs good but seals need to go.

[osburn383]

[QUOTE=82Kashmir;29743820]Ok gonna give it a go been lubing the old injector o ring will some lucas every other week or so trying to soften it some, car runs good but seals need to go.[/Q

Yeah that should definitely help.

[osburn383]

Beware of low quality radiator caps. I had mine replaced not too long ago and it got all rusty under the seal and started leaking. I was worried that I have a blown headgasket or something as there was rust in a coolant and temperature was not consistent. It turned out to be low quality cap. Good quality cap fixed the problem.

Where did you get these boots for wiring connectors?

Max

Yeah that probably was the original cap looking at it lol.

Here is where i got the boots.
Best price i could find. Great quality.
http://www.arnnworx.com/catalog/inde...6#.WUVd_Ma2yUk

[osburn383]

Question for a High Control pressure issue.
I have the gauge set connected.
It reads the exact same whether i shut the valve to the WUR or not. 67psi.

I then did some reading.
I first looked for a blockage.
I loosened the return fitting at the WUR and pressure drops instantly.
I did the banjo bolt at the distributor from the WUR and have pressure drop.
Then i loosened the main return banjo bolt and no change in pressure.

I removed all banjo bolts and the fuel pressure spring and flushed it out with the pump for a second.
Still same issue.

To note i have yet to punch the pin down some to set the cold control pressure.

Can the fuel return banjo bolt from the WUR at he distributor have a blockage internally to the main return banjo bolt?

Ok so i had the frequency valve line and the return from WUR backwards.
Now its reads 50psi.
I taped the pin in some and the pressure went up to 60 psi?
Shouldn't it go down when pushing the pin in?

[osburn383]

Ok so update.

Went and checked the filter, pump, accumulator, check valve.
Filter being back flushed looked like red clay water.
Got a new one coming.
Temporarily flushed it out for testing today.

Cleaned the pump and accumulator.
A little trash and discolored gas but nothing like the filter.

Getting right at 70psi of pressure now with a flushed filter from 67psi previously.
Then pulled the fuel feed to the distributor and let gas flush the line till clear.

Then looked into the WUR.
I took all the way apart.
I can hold my finger on the middle hole to the return and no gas comes out the feed.
I then pulled the feed line and have gas so must be the filter.
Had a little brown gas come out cleaning the filter.
There still just seems so much restriction from that filter.
I might try and remove it.

I put it back together for now for testing.
It now works... sorta.
I get 50psi control and 70psi when i shut the valve.
So it seems like it at least is semi working now.

I was using the FAQ guide to adjust the control pressure.
It says to push the pin inward to lower control pressure correct?

[osburn383]

Ok so update.

Went and checked the filter, pump, accumulator, check valve.
Filter being back flushed looked like red clay water.
Got a new one coming.
Temporarily flushed it out for testing today.

Cleaned the pump and accumulator.
A little trash and discolored gas but nothing like the filter.

Getting right at 70psi of pressure now with a flushed filter from 67psi previously.
Then pulled the fuel feed to the distributor and let gas flush the line till clear.

Then looked into the WUR.
I took all the way apart.
I can hold my finger on the middle hole to the return and no gas comes out the feed.
I then pulled the feed line and have gas so must be the filter.
Had a little brown gas come out cleaning the filter.
There still just seems so much restriction from that filter.
I might try and remove it.

I put it back together for now for testing.
It now works... sorta.
I get 50psi control and 70psi when i shut the valve.
So it seems like it at least is semi working now.

I was using the FAQ guide to adjust the control pressure.
It says to push the pin inward to lower control pressure correct?

Never-mind answered my own question.
Did so be loosening the bottom half of the WUR and the control pressure dropped.
So looking at JrCooks diagram it makes sense now.
The metal strip needs to put pressure on the spring to let fuel past.
Once it heats up it bends upward and the spring is allowed to push the diaphragm harder causing a increase in pressure.


I would need to push the pin way in to get it to the correct psi.
More than looks like is possible?
I still think that filter is causing back pressure creating the high control pressure.
Since it looks like it is functioning correctly now.

[okieflats]

it makes sense now, not it makes since now

[osburn383]

it makes sense now, not it makes since now

really.........................
Thanks for the insight.


The nice rusty gas coming from the filter.
Need to inspect the tanks tomorrow.
But the fuel pressure is better.
Going to mess with the filter on the WUR as well.
Tried to start it tonight but no life in the starter. Going to have to pull it off and inspect.
Then hopefully will see some life in the car tomorrow.

[82Kashmir]

My filter was original too it weighed considerably more than the new one, full of junk like yours, it was a big improvement.

[osburn383]

My filter was original too it weighed considerably more than the new one, full of junk like yours, it was a big improvement.

Yeah my new one was noticeably lighter as well.

My original starter didn't like being cleaned and was shorting out.
Picked up a 1988 535i starter as its replacement.
It crazy how much smaller it is and just bolts right up.
Turns the motor over way quicker as well.

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[SilverPuddle]

Nice build and pictures to capture your work. Do the wires unplug for the connector and you just slipped on a new boot...looks good.