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Thread: Ruskii's 2001 740iL

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyzabolotny View Post
    It'll have a bit of a lifter tick for a little while, but that'll go away after a drive. Run the engine for a minute or two and check the oil and coolant levels, those often need to be topped off after the fluids get around the engine.

    Since you removed your intake manifold, I'd expect the engine idle to fluctuate and be crappy for about 30 seconds to a minute. Don't panic, that's just the DME sorting itself out after having the intake manifold resealed.

    Another issue that's sadly common is getting either a P0011 or P0021 timing code. The engine can be running perfectly fine, but if those little camshaft trigger wheels are even the slightest bit off they'll throw a code. Fortunately the fix for that is pretty easy— pop open the valve covers and rotate the wheels a little bit based on what code you get. I've gotten these codes on about 50% of my timing jobs (out of 10 that I've done), it's not always possible to get everything dead-on, even with the proper tools. These engines are fiddly.
    Great info, thank you! I did notice that the little hole on bank 2 cam trigger wheel didn't exactly line up with the "timing check port" (I lack the actual name for it) on the upper timing cover. Curious to see if a code will pop up - for bank 2 it's P0021, right?
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  2. #27
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    Yeah, it'll likely be a P0021. But start it first and see, it might just be okay. No need to fiddle with it until the engine complains about it.
    2000 540i/6 | 1997 M3 | 2003 Range Rover HSE | 1992 525it
    Previously owned:
    2000 540i Japanrot Touring - Build Thread | 2003 X5 4.6 - Build Thread | 2004 Range Rover HSE -Build Thread | 2000 M5 Anthracite/Caramel - Build Thread
    2000 540i/6 with 160k miles - Build Thread | 1995 750il with 188k miles - Build Thread | 2003 Mercedes S500 with 96k miles
    2001 540ia with 200k miles - Parts car/Garage couch | 2003 540i6 M-Sport with 199k miles -
    Build Thread | 2003 330i 5-speed Sedan - Build Thread

  3. #28
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    2001 740iL Silver/Grey
    Can you guys expand on the procedure to get rid of the P0021 code? What do you line up?

    Danny, the Range Rover I bought in November that I messaged you about has that code and everyone I bring it to just wants to tear down the front of the engine and charge me $1500-$2000 even though it runs fine. I need to get rid of the code before I have to get an emissions test done.

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by armiller1 View Post
    Can you guys expand on the procedure to get rid of the P0021 code? What do you line up?

    Danny, the Range Rover I bought in November that I messaged you about has that code and everyone I bring it to just wants to tear down the front of the engine and charge me $1500-$2000 even though it runs fine. I need to get rid of the code before I have to get an emissions test done.
    Quick google search yields these posts:

    1) https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-trigger-wheel
    2) http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic38485-30.html (Range Rover related, bonus!)
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  5. #30
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    One key point when setting the trigger wheels to the timing cover hole with the crank locked at TDC....be sure to rotate the cams counterclockwise to the stops before setting the trigger wheels to the holes.
    Any movement off the stop by the cams will be off slightly. Worn Vanos assemblies can cause the cams to wander off the stops and cause off trigger wheel settings.

  6. #31
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    98 740IL & 00 740i sport
    Can't you remove the fuel pump relay and crank to build oil pressure first?

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkitect View Post
    Interested to see how the permatex instead of a new valley pan gasket works out.
    I am redoing the permatex gasket. It appears that in one section I did not put enough gasket maker and it caused a leak. The first time I put the gasket maker on the engine block, and it was hard to make a nice line while reaching in the back. This time I will put the gasket maker on the valley pan to get a nice and thick continuous line.
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  8. #33
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    Started her up! But then got P0011 code... bah! Tomorrow will top off more coolant and take it for a spin around the neighborhood.
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldroller View Post
    One key point when setting the trigger wheels to the timing cover hole with the crank locked at TDC....be sure to rotate the cams counterclockwise to the stops before setting the trigger wheels to the holes.
    Any movement off the stop by the cams will be off slightly. Worn Vanos assemblies can cause the cams to wander off the stops and cause off trigger wheel settings.
    So the the recommendation is to lock the cams using the timing jig on the ends of cams, and then try to line up the holes? I used the timing tools to set everything (bought off eBay), and was very anal about making sure that the cam locks were flat against the cylinder heads.

    Is there any other advice regarding p0011 code?
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruskii View Post
    So the the recommendation is to lock the cams using the timing jig on the ends of cams, and then try to line up the holes? I used the timing tools to set everything (bought off eBay), and was very anal about making sure that the cam locks were flat against the cylinder heads.

    Is there any other advice regarding p0011 code?
    Yeah I believe you need to lock the cams down to use inspection ports to line up the impulse wheels. It's a bummer to have to remove the valve covers again, but at least you can avoid taking off the upper timing covers.

    When I did my guides I noticed it seemed possible to install the chain and the temporary tensioner and still have some slack in the chain on the driver's side. I wonder if a little slack over there could cause these P0011 and P0021 codes after guides are done. I was super careful to make sure it was all tight before I timed it and installed those wheels.

    I think Nordman went through this on his old blue car.
    2001 740i Sport | 1997 328i | 1988 325i Vert | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  11. #36
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    Well, the cam impulse wheel is perfectly aligned with the inspection hole, however, bank 1 intake camshaft is retarded if pulled counterclockwise until stop. Exhaust cam is perfectly timed = the cam locking block drops in with ease and is perfectly flat against cylinder head. I am not sure what happened to intake cam, as I've used cam locking blocks and an angle iron (with holes for hanging garage doors) to push down on the blocks.

    Could've VANOS compressed further (past 40NM) when I was tightening the intake cam bolt?

    I have removed the upper timing cover and I plan on loosening only the intake cam bolt in attempt to retime it. Will this be sufficient, given that I didn't get a code for bank 2? (would like not to mess with bank 2 if the car didn't complain about it)

    Thanks in advance for your input!
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  12. #37
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    2001 740iL Prod 4/2000
    You're on the right track Ruskii... remove the trigger and nut, loosen the intake cam bolt and install the lock blocks. Finger tighten the bolt, ensuring that the Vanos is fully counter-clockwise.

    Inspect the blocks, and torque the bolt. Now install the trigger and nut with the timing tool.
    The blocks will ensure the cams are at TDC, and rotating the Vanos makes sure it is at "no oil signal' or idle position.

    Be sure to tension the chain with the upper cover removed. After installing the upper cover and tensioner, check the trigger with a drill bit or similar through the blind hole, making sure to rotate
    the intake cam counter-clockwise if it moved (advanced) due to spring tension when you removed the blocks.

    If all is good, you should be more than good.
    Last edited by oldroller; 06-23-2017 at 05:45 PM.

  13. #38
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    No more P0011

    ​Got the bank 1 intake cam retimed and no more P0011 code! I did end up using the drill bit in the inspection hole to adjust the trigger wheel just a tad. Also, bank 2 trigger wheel is off just by about 1mm, so I didn't bother taking the valve cover off and messing with it since I didn't get P0021 code. To confirm the repair, I did about 6-7 driving cycles and no code! Previously, P0011 error code would pop up by the 2nd drive cycle.

    Thanks to everyone for their support and sharing knowledge/information! I can now say that, 3 months later, the timing chain guides and engine reseal tasks are complete... minus the vanos seals (but they don't rattle, so maybe in 2-3 years).

    Now to tackle other issues... new tires, fix broken seat trim, polish headlight lenses, etc.
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  14. #39
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    That's great news Ruskii! Glad you got it sorted out! Your other issues are less daunting so hopefully you can just enjoy the ride now while you tinker with it.
    2001 740i Sport | 1997 328i | 1988 325i Vert | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  15. #40
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    Awesome, glad to hear you got it figured out! That's how I solved my P0021 in my 04 Range Rover, I just moved the trigger wheel a little. And ever since I upgraded to the GAS timing tools I haven't had to re-time anything, I've gotten everything dead-on in the first try. My X5 4.6is needed zero adjustments.
    2000 540i/6 | 1997 M3 | 2003 Range Rover HSE | 1992 525it
    Previously owned:
    2000 540i Japanrot Touring - Build Thread | 2003 X5 4.6 - Build Thread | 2004 Range Rover HSE -Build Thread | 2000 M5 Anthracite/Caramel - Build Thread
    2000 540i/6 with 160k miles - Build Thread | 1995 750il with 188k miles - Build Thread | 2003 Mercedes S500 with 96k miles
    2001 540ia with 200k miles - Parts car/Garage couch | 2003 540i6 M-Sport with 199k miles -
    Build Thread | 2003 330i 5-speed Sedan - Build Thread

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkitect View Post
    That's great news Ruskii! Glad you got it sorted out! Your other issues are less daunting so hopefully you can just enjoy the ride now while you tinker with it.
    Yes, that's the plan -- can't wait to start driving it! I will get new tires mounted this weekend (245/45 and 275/40) and will drop it off on Monday for state inspection (fingers crossed they don't find anything).


    Quote Originally Posted by dannyzabolotny View Post
    Awesome, glad to hear you got it figured out! That's how I solved my P0021 in my 04 Range Rover, I just moved the trigger wheel a little. And ever since I upgraded to the GAS timing tools I haven't had to re-time anything, I've gotten everything dead-on in the first try. My X5 4.6is needed zero adjustments.
    I wish it was just the trigger wheel, but unfortunately it was the entire camshaft out of time (over retarded). I can't recall at the moment, but I may have removed the cam locking blocks during the final tightening and may have over retarded the cam in the process. So, to remedy the issue, I had to completely remove bank 1 upper timing cover and start from scratch... it was my first time doing TCGs and timing the engine but I've learned from my own mistakes (and from wisdom of others!).

    I hope to never touch TCGs again, but then, I daydream the idea of some day dropping m60/m62 into e30 chassis...
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  17. #42
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    I was driving the car today and received "engine fail safe program" message on multiple occasions. According to a standard OBD2 scanner no hard or pending codes. Car ran fine.

    Checked voltage, with engine off 12.2V; at idle 14.2V. (checked at the battery and in the engine bay)

    Also checked the fuses right above the positive terminal at the battery and they looked fine too.

    Any ideas what may be causing the message?
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  18. #43
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    Some updates:

    1) Got the new tires mounted: Front 245/45 and Rear 275/40.

    2) The left tie rod end was shot and couldn't get alignment done, so I replaced whole thing!
    IMG_0969.JPG

    3) Replaced the sway bar bushings (one of them swell up due to oil absorption and was kind of extra soft).
    IMG_0970.JPG

    4) Replaced sway bar links. Looks like one of them was replaced previously (why not replace both? )
    IMG_0972.JPG

    5) Replaced the power steering reservoir and both inlet/outlet hoses, as both were leaking.

    6) I've noticed that air was not blowing that hard compared to my e39 with clean cabin filters... and holy guacamole for cabin filters! (genuine BMW filters, production date 2003!).
    IMG_0973.JPG

    Hopefully I will get it aligned with a state inspection tomorrow, unless they find something else that's wrong with this car. I am going to ask the shop for as much "positive" camber in the rear as possible to extend the life of rear tires. I've read on some posts that spec is between -1.55 ~ -1.37. If I can get -1.0 I will be happy.
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  19. #44
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    Oh, and did someone order serpentine belt a la carte, string cheese style?

    Brand new Conti belt got shredded due to a slightly bent alternator pulley (PO had the alternator replaced and looks like some jackass dropped it and bent the pulley's outer lip just a tad in one section). The Conti' belt composition for the grooves appears to be solid rubber, compared to the Dayco belt which is more felt-like. I suspect that Conti's rubber groove was getting pinched in the bent V-channel and started to separate. Once the separated rubber groove got caught in the water pump/fan clutch, all hell broke loose (and got that reverse threaded fan clutch super tight!). I hope Dayco belt will be okay, given that PO had Dayco and it survived for several years. If not, then it's new pulley time...

    IMG_0966.JPG

    IMG_0967.JPG
    Last edited by Ruskii; 07-11-2017 at 10:32 AM.
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  20. #45
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    I often see suspension components replaced one at a time in states that require annual inspections... usually they'll find one bushing or ball joint that's bad so in a lot of cases the owner will just replace the bare minimum to pass. That's what happens when these cars get into their third and fourth owners, they're usually not maintained to a very good standard.
    2000 540i/6 | 1997 M3 | 2003 Range Rover HSE | 1992 525it
    Previously owned:
    2000 540i Japanrot Touring - Build Thread | 2003 X5 4.6 - Build Thread | 2004 Range Rover HSE -Build Thread | 2000 M5 Anthracite/Caramel - Build Thread
    2000 540i/6 with 160k miles - Build Thread | 1995 750il with 188k miles - Build Thread | 2003 Mercedes S500 with 96k miles
    2001 540ia with 200k miles - Parts car/Garage couch | 2003 540i6 M-Sport with 199k miles -
    Build Thread | 2003 330i 5-speed Sedan - Build Thread

  21. #46
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    Crap. According to the tech, rear eccentric bolts were seized up so he couldn't adjust camber: RL = -1.59, RR = -2.19. He tried impact gun and a breaker bar with cheater pipe; didn't want to use heat in fear of damaging the bushings. RR worries me with 275mm wide tire...

    Maybe order new bolts/nuts and tell him to cut the old ones off?
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  22. #47
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    Ladies and gentleman, may I introduce you to the new way of fixing your BMW = wood! I swear, the more I work on this, the more I wish to slap the PO...

    Why go through all that trouble of removing door card, vapor barrier, and all wires/cables, to just jam a stick!? Flipping regulator is $30 on eBay. *Rage*

    image.jpg

    image.jpg
    Last edited by Ruskii; 07-23-2017 at 07:41 PM.
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  23. #48
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    Well at least now you can say "my E38 gave me wood".

    Sent from my XT1572 using Tapatalk

  24. #49
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    I wish it was the first time I saw something like that, but sadly it's a very common "fix" that cheapskates do. One time I even saw an old 540i with a screwdriver jammed into the window glass to keep it up, now that was silly.
    2000 540i/6 | 1997 M3 | 2003 Range Rover HSE | 1992 525it
    Previously owned:
    2000 540i Japanrot Touring - Build Thread | 2003 X5 4.6 - Build Thread | 2004 Range Rover HSE -Build Thread | 2000 M5 Anthracite/Caramel - Build Thread
    2000 540i/6 with 160k miles - Build Thread | 1995 750il with 188k miles - Build Thread | 2003 Mercedes S500 with 96k miles
    2001 540ia with 200k miles - Parts car/Garage couch | 2003 540i6 M-Sport with 199k miles -
    Build Thread | 2003 330i 5-speed Sedan - Build Thread

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by dannyzabolotny View Post
    I wish it was the first time I saw something like that, but sadly it's a very common "fix" that cheapskates do. One time I even saw an old 540i with a screwdriver jammed into the window glass to keep it up, now that was silly.
    Wood shims seem to be the weapon of choice according to junkyard statistics
    2003 BMW 540i [Sterling Gray / Gray]
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