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Thread: Ruskii's 2001 740iL

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    2001 740iL

    Ruskii's 2001 740iL

    Hi all,

    Long time member but seldom poster. I've never created threads about my cars, but with the recently purchased 2001 740iL, I decided to create one. This community is amazing, and I look forward to sharing with you my ups and downs of owning this car.

    2001 740iL Sport with 113K miles, Black on Black, 2 owner car with no accidents. Purchased from a private party (I may have overplayed, but it has everything that I wanted). The PO had it for about 12 years; it was one of three BMWs that he owns. He said it was mainly sitting without being driven that often so he finally decided to sell it. Unfortunately, it was not garage kept so the exterior is not a show quality (wasn't planning on entering shows anyway) and also some rubber parts have dry rotted, including tires. So sad as they have a ton of tread left .

    A couple of pics right after I got it home:

    IMG_0717.jpgIMG_0718.jpg

    And here is my current DD = 2000 528i Sport with 5-speed. I plan on selling it after I get the 7-series fixed up.

    IMG_0419.jpg

    Of course here is little list of known issues:
    - Left rear window regulator is not working
    - Passenger folding side-mirror is wobbly
    - Dry rotted tires
    - Leaking oil!!
    - Center console wood trim is all cracked
    - Both front seat control plastic trim pieces are broken
    - And given the age, I am pretty sure suspension is worn (although the EDC works!)
    - And some other things here and there, like dry wiper blades, a door speaker cover fell off, left rear window shade doesn't roll down, etc.

    The PO had the tranny rebuilt 6-7 years ago since it stopped going in reverse. He also said the timing guides/tensioner were never replaced. So the first thing I did was, I dropped the oil pan and found no plastic pieces! However, it's leaking oil like crazy... I got my 5-series pretty much oil-leak free except the dreaded oil pan gasket (didn't bother me enough to mess with it). I am not okay with a nasty, "bleeding" oil engine bay . Given that I have a perfectly running DD, I am toying the idea of just changing the timing guides and all of the associated gaskets now, including the valley pan/intake gaskets while I am at it. What do you all think?

    Anyone around the Charlottesville, VA, area with the timing kit?

    Oh and I am totally excited for my new rubber floor mats! (made for e39 but they perfectly fit e38)
    Last edited by Ruskii; 03-20-2019 at 01:11 PM.
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Windy City, USA
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    '01 740il / '01 X5
    Congrats

  3. #3
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    Follow me on Instagram @nordmanmg

    Your current situation is not your final destination

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    00 540i6, 03 Range Rover
    Congrats! I'd try and keep the 528i/5 as well, the E38 and E39 are completely different animals. The E38 is more luxurious but the E39 is sportier and way more fun to drive, especially with a manual.
    2000 540i/6 | 1997 M3 | 2003 Range Rover HSE | 1992 525it
    Previously owned:
    2000 540i Japanrot Touring - Build Thread | 2003 X5 4.6 - Build Thread | 2004 Range Rover HSE -Build Thread | 2000 M5 Anthracite/Caramel - Build Thread
    2000 540i/6 with 160k miles - Build Thread | 1995 750il with 188k miles - Build Thread | 2003 Mercedes S500 with 96k miles
    2001 540ia with 200k miles - Parts car/Garage couch | 2003 540i6 M-Sport with 199k miles -
    Build Thread | 2003 330i 5-speed Sedan - Build Thread

  5. #5
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    Jul 2015
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    Dallas, Texas
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    98 750iL, 01 740iL
    congrats! usually rear right window regulator is the one that goes bad on these cars. if you're interested, i have an OEM one lying around.

  6. #6
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    2001 740iL
    Quote Originally Posted by dannyzabolotny View Post
    Congrats! I'd try and keep the 528i/5 as well, the E38 and E39 are completely different animals. The E38 is more luxurious but the E39 is sportier and way more fun to drive, especially with a manual.
    E39 served me well but I am ready to move on. When I am ready to have a second car, I am going to get E30 with a manual tranny as a fun car.

    Quote Originally Posted by MKIVJZA80 View Post
    congrats! usually rear right window regulator is the one that goes bad on these cars. if you're interested, i have an OEM one lying around.
    Thank you but I am currently focusing my resources on the timing chain guides/seals/etc. before I start dealing with aesthetics.
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  7. #7
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    2001 750iL Sport
    That will look real nice when you're all done with it. I'd recommend taking the headlights apart to polish the inside lenses. Makes a world of difference.

    Last edited by board57796; 03-31-2017 at 09:50 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by board57796 View Post
    That will look real nice when you're all done with it. I'd recommend taking the headlights apart to polish the inside lenses. Makes a world of difference.

    I may also wet sand and polish (possibly spray some clear coat) the outside lenses as they look a little yellow.
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  9. #9
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    Oct 2013
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    2001 740iL
    Well, I just got all of the parts and timing set kit... just need to start tearing it all apart and make a crankshaft holding tool.

    I have to give a big shout out and THANK YOU to GSXRliterbikz for providing the recommended parts list, which I was able to modify per my needs. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...s-01-740-M62TU
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  10. #10
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    2001 740iL
    Could someone please confirm that I have to have cylinder 1 cam lobes facing each other (approximate 45 degree) to ensure proper timing? I just noticed that my lobes are not facing each other, but the flywheel and crank are locked at TDC; the cams ends are squared and locked too, just the lobes are not facing each other.
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Are you sure you are not 180 degrees out of time. Try turning the crank one full turn and see if they don't line up.
    http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm71/krallopian/darthSigTest2_zpsn6zkw5id.jpg[/URL][URL="http://www.facebook.com/pages/DFW7-Dallas-Fort-Worth-BMW-7-Series-Club/300942239566"]DFW7 on Facebook/URL]
    "The Last Great e38" 2001 i Sport - Born'd on date 1/01 Cosmos/Grey - 32.8K miles - 2 1/2 " Custom Exhaust, Center “X”over , Modified OEM rear bumper, M5 style trunk spoiler, M6 OEM wheels, M3 Steering wheel with working paddle shift & CF trim, Bi-Xenon upgrade, 13mm Rear sway bar added, SS brake lines and bronze bushings, Cross drilled rotors and painted calipers, Akebono pads, Zionsville aluminum radiator & exp. tank with electric fan, Sprint Booster, BluTooth conversion, MKIV Nav., Custom wood cupholder, DUDMD Tune, Orien V2.5 LED Angel Eyes, Evans waterless. Recently added grey faced //M5 Cluster - all gauges functioning. Changed the grey carpet to black and topped off with GG Bailey front/rear mats[/SIZE]

  12. #12
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    Yes and the marks on the camshafts should face up.

    This is useful if you don't already have it:
    http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/se...E39.Vanos2.pdf
    Last edited by clarkitect; 04-15-2017 at 11:57 AM.
    2001 740i Sport | 1997 328i | 1988 325i Vert | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxDarth View Post
    Are you sure you are not 180 degrees out of time. Try turning the crank one full turn and see if they don't line up.
    That is my concern, given that I was able to lock everything with OT marks lined up. Looks like need to re-lock everything.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by clarkitect View Post
    Yes and the marks on the camshafts should face up.

    This is useful if you don't already have it:
    http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/se...E39.Vanos2.pdf
    Excellent reference, thank you very much!
    Last edited by Ruskii; 04-15-2017 at 12:32 PM.
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    North Carolina coast
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    2001 740iL Prod 4/2000
    I would also inspect the 'feel' of the Vanos units once off. They should be smooth to turn with a little force in both directions. If you had rattle on startup from the valve train that is usually the cause.

    If they are loose or very easy to turn I would suggest rebuilding them while they are off with the Beisan Systems rings and press (no, I am not affiliated in any way). Best 100 bucks spent. I performed
    the procedure on mine at 155K, super smooth and noticeable improved torque, no rattles.

    The check valves should also be checked for wear etc. They hold oil in the cam/vanos gears for noiseless startup.


    Good luck with the 7, sweet!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    2001 740iL
    Gentlemen, we are halfway there...
    IMG_0771.JPG

    Upon inspection of the guides, the side guides appear to be in good shape with minimal wear (will be replaced anyway). The center U-shaped guide showed some odd wear = plastic was pitted at the lowest part of the U shape (from oil?). Also, there was one spot on the center guide which showed chain wear and would've been the point of guide's failure.

    IMG_0768.JPG IMG_0770.JPG

    Next step is cleaning everything up and start installing new parts. Little progress at a time...
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  16. #16
    Join Date
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    2001 740iL
    Finally got the issue resolved of not being able to turn over the engine by hand. It was a broken plastic tab from the electrical box on bank 1, which got inside cylinder #2 via intake port. It must have fallen in right as I was removing the intake. More details are here: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-by-hand/page2

    I am so glad that the cylinder heads did not have to come off...

    IMG_0795.JPG
    IMG_0796.JPG
    IMG_0799.JPG
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  17. #17
    Join Date
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    That's great news!
    2001 740i Sport | 1997 328i | 1988 325i Vert | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  18. #18
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    Oct 2014
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    2000 740IL
    nice def good news. i always tripple check and make sure nothing foreign fell into the intake port(s) when doing work that required removal of the manifold, almost let a nut get in there one time...could u imagine, lol.

  19. #19
    Join Date
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    2001 740iL
    I figured to post a little update on the progress:

    1. Got the timing squared away. Lower and upper timing covers are in. Still need to clean up the valve covers and install the Jesus bolt...
    IMG_0817.JPG

    2. While I have the easy access, I decided to replace all of the coolant hoses for the heater. The accumulator gaskets were replaced too.
    IMG_0825.JPG

    3. During the heater coolant hose replacement, I checked the heater control valves = rubber grommets were busted. All of them were replaced using the ingenious $12 fix. Big shout out and credit goes to ArtMan from xoutpost dot com and our good 'ol bud dville! I had to visit 3 Advance Auto stores to get the PCV grommets (each store had only 1 in stock; 1st store couldn't find it in the backroom!), but it sure beats waiting 2-3 weeks for the repair kit from Ukraine/Latvia! If anyone is going to do a similar fix, I suggest lightly lubing up the rubber grommets (master cylinder gaskets) where they meet the metal plate. This will make the re-assembly much easier as the rubber will slide and flatten, instead of buckling and kinking under pressure).
    IMG_0815.JPG IMG_0824.JPG IMG_0823.JPG

    Next items to address are the valley pan and intake manifold.
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    2001 740iL
    Valve covers are done. Also, installed the valley pan by using the permatex right stuff grey gasket maker instead of a new pan+vulcanized gasket. Fingers crossed it works...
    IMG_0840.JPG

    Resealed the intake manifold and installed hex cap bolts and wave washers instead of torx bolts. Only a few bucks at Lowe's = worth it!
    IMG_0838.JPG IMG_0839.JPG
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  21. #21
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    Crank bolt is in! Because I've re-used my bolt, I only torqued it to about a total of 130-140 degrees. Here are some pics of my homemade crank holding and angle tools. Worked like a charm!

    IMG_0846.JPG

    IMG_0847.JPG

    IMG_0848.JPG

    IMG_0849.JPG
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  22. #22
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    Interested to see how the permatex instead of a new valley pan gasket works out. The new gaskets are thin little strings that seem pretty flimsy to me.

    How come you decided to reuse the crank bolt? These are called to be replaced after removal because torquing properly results in deformation of the bolt to achieve the required holding power. Maybe reusing the bolt will work fine, but normally they are replaced.

    Your crank holder looks a lot like the one I made except I had a long handle on it.
    2001 740i Sport | 1997 328i | 1988 325i Vert | 1995 Ford F150 | 2018 GTI

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by clarkitect View Post
    Interested to see how the permatex instead of a new valley pan gasket works out. The new gaskets are thin little strings that seem pretty flimsy to me.

    How come you decided to reuse the crank bolt? These are called to be replaced after removal because torquing properly results in deformation of the bolt to achieve the required holding power. Maybe reusing the bolt will work fine, but normally they are replaced.

    Your crank holder looks a lot like the one I made except I had a long handle on it.

    I've been reading here and there that people are not impressed/pleased by the new valley pan gaskets. Plus, you end up paying more for the new pan than gasket which may still fail in a similar fashion. According to several sources, using "the right stuff" grey gasket maker is a better way to go ($20 at a parts store). Of course, cleaning it up will be a b!tch, but I hope I will not have to cross that bridge anytime soon.

    Again, after reading around, it seems that people have re-used their crank bolts with no adverse effects. I've re-used the crank bolt on my wife's Highlander and everything is holding up fine. If I would take it off again, then yes, I would get a new bolt just to be safe. Plus, given the sheer size and thickness of this bolt, it should be fine re-using it one time (compared to headbolts which are long and skinny, and compress a gasket).

    And I am blown away by your tool... You can also use it as a weapon and a boat oar/paddle! Nicely done!
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  24. #24
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    Well, I just need to hook up the battery and add coolant, and it will be ready to fire up!

    I understand the car will sound like total crap upon the start due to absence of oil in some of the top-end parts (lifters, vanos, etc.). What else can I expect or be prepared for? (fingers crossed nothing goes wrong due to my doing)
    Last edited by Ruskii; 06-13-2017 at 10:49 PM.
    Current: 2001 740iL Sport (black/black)
    Previous: 2000 528i Sport (black/tan), 1995 318is (black/black), 1991 318is (white/black)

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ruskii View Post
    Well, I just need to hook up the battery and add coolant, and it will be ready to fire up!

    I understand the car will sound like total crap upon the start due to absence of oil in some of the top-end parts (lifters, vanos, etc.). What else can I expect or be prepared for? (fingers crossed nothing goes wrong due to my doing)
    It'll have a bit of a lifter tick for a little while, but that'll go away after a drive. Run the engine for a minute or two and check the oil and coolant levels, those often need to be topped off after the fluids get around the engine.

    Since you removed your intake manifold, I'd expect the engine idle to fluctuate and be crappy for about 30 seconds to a minute. Don't panic, that's just the DME sorting itself out after having the intake manifold resealed.

    Another issue that's sadly common is getting either a P0011 or P0021 timing code. The engine can be running perfectly fine, but if those little camshaft trigger wheels are even the slightest bit off they'll throw a code. Fortunately the fix for that is pretty easy— pop open the valve covers and rotate the wheels a little bit based on what code you get. I've gotten these codes on about 50% of my timing jobs (out of 10 that I've done), it's not always possible to get everything dead-on, even with the proper tools. These engines are fiddly.
    2000 540i/6 | 1997 M3 | 2003 Range Rover HSE | 1992 525it
    Previously owned:
    2000 540i Japanrot Touring - Build Thread | 2003 X5 4.6 - Build Thread | 2004 Range Rover HSE -Build Thread | 2000 M5 Anthracite/Caramel - Build Thread
    2000 540i/6 with 160k miles - Build Thread | 1995 750il with 188k miles - Build Thread | 2003 Mercedes S500 with 96k miles
    2001 540ia with 200k miles - Parts car/Garage couch | 2003 540i6 M-Sport with 199k miles -
    Build Thread | 2003 330i 5-speed Sedan - Build Thread

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