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Thread: No crank, no click, have power, why??

  1. #1
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    No crank, no click, have power, why??

    Hi all. 2001 325i auto. 199851k

    Battery died a couple weeks ago. I jumped the battery several times but, the car won't even crank. I have power to everything. When I turn the key all lights light up but I don't even get s click or crank. I tried crank By it while in neutral and in park but, nothing.
    Is there s particular fuse I can check or is there something I can check to see what is preventing the car from cranking over?
    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
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    Is the first line of the post supposed to indicate that the car has almost 200k miles on it? Did you check the power lines? Did you loosen anything when the battery went dead? Did you check the voltage on the battery? When you tried to jump it, did you use quality cables (you'd be surprised at how little current some cables carry)?

    First things first, starting with the easiest. First, scan for codes. Next verify that your battery is good. Test the voltage of the battery while it is under load. Check all of the fuses. Check the wiring and make sure that everything has a good connection. If all of the simple stuff checks out, then you'll need to get under the car and check that the starter is getting power when you turn the key and then the starter itself. Other than this, the only other thing is can think of is some sort of security measure has kicked in.

    BTW, just because the lights light up, it doesn't mean your battery is good. How old is it anyway?

  3. #3
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    I jumped the car twice and started right up but the next day, the car was completely dead. I decided to put the car on 4 jackstands to replace the guibo and CSB. I attempted to start the car while the car was on jackstands and that's when it started. No click, no crank, just everything lighting up without the crank. I know the battery is shot but the engine not cranking while being jumped?? That's odd.
    I'm thinking it might have to do with security but what security options come with the e46 that would prevent the car from stsrting? I'm not sure which fuses to check. I don't have an owners manual. It's just very odd that the two times I jumped the car it started up fine but once I put the car on all 4 jackstands and tried jumping it, no crank. I do know wires were not touched. Nothing was tampered with. The only think I can think of is a security issue, maybe from the car being completely dead or being in the air on jackstands? I did notice when I put the car back on the ground the rear driver side wheel is locked. I tried pushing the car while on neutral and that wheel skidded from being locked.

  4. #4
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    When you first jump started the car, it's likely that your battery still had enough of a charge to aid in starting the car. It's possible, even likely, that your battery is beyond helping to start the car now. Lights coming on means nothing. They require few amps and don't put much of a load on the battery. Attaching jumper cables to a car's power cables is not the same thing as installing the battery in the car. Using cheap jumper cables with a completely dead battery in the car you are trying to jump is a futile effort. With all that you've described as having been done, you still haven't confirmed that putting a new battery in the car will or won't fix the no start problem.

    If you don't want to buy a battery to see, pull a known good battery out of another car and install it into the car that won't start.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the advice. I will use a good battery to test. Thanks!

  6. #6
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    yes, standard jumper cables are pretty useless on most modern vehicles once the battery is past a certain point. All the electronics just having the ignition on draw usually about as much as the cables can carry, the starter doesn't even have a chance.
    Current:

    - 09 335i MSport, FBO.
    - 98 Euro M3, Estoril Blue
    - 04 M3, Carbon Black, 6 Speed Coupe
    - 06 M5, Black on Black, Full Leather.
    - 73 3.0CS, Tagia Green, 5 speed M30b35 converted

    Ex's: 1984 325e, 1988 325IX, 1992 525I, 1995 540i/6, 2002 330i, 2005 330xi, 1992 850i, 2003 330i #1, 2003 330i #2, 2002 330ci, 2004 330ci, 2007 328CI, 2007 335i, 2001 M3, 2006 M5 6 speed

  7. #7
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    I have a suggestion,
    Remove battery, charge overnight with battery charger on slow charge, reinstall, check battery voltage with voltmeter.

  8. #8
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    I had this issue yesterday. It turned out to be a dirty key.

    I would try to start as normal but no crank, yet power to everything else.

  9. #9
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    A dirty key? I used a different battery and still no crank. It won't even try to crank yet, all lights are bright and functional. How do I go about checking the fuse link on the negative side? I remember the e30s have a fuse link. Does the e46 have a fuse link? If so, where can I find it?
    Thanks in advance!

  10. #10
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    I found the fuse link and bypassed it but, no luck. I'm trying to figure out what would prevent the starter from getting power. Unless the starter is shot.

  11. #11
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    Remove starter, test at local AutoZone.

  12. #12
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    How do I jump the starter? I read I can use a screwdriver or jump some pins but, not clear how to jump the pins. I'd rather do it the safe way by jumping the pibs. I just don't know how to.

  13. #13
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    To jump it you need to supply 12v to the 'S' terminal (its the bigger of the 2 small terminals with a black/yellow wire running to it). In the old days it was easy to get a screwdriver in and bridge the main battery lead to this lead. In newer cars where the starter is tucked away and leads isolated by plastic covers this is much harder to do, you also risk damaging modules in the car if you slip and short the system out. I usually use my Power Probe these days, but before i had that i had a piece of wire with alligator clips on it to connect the 2 together.

    Remember this will only turn the engine over. It will not start unless the ignition is also on and the immobiliser is satisfied, as the immobiliser also cuts fuel and spark.

    Also in older BMW's with the round diagnostic plug in the engine compartment, pin 11 of this plug is the black/yellow wire and goes directly to that S terminal.
    Last edited by legoman67; 04-04-2017 at 06:49 PM.
    Current:

    - 09 335i MSport, FBO.
    - 98 Euro M3, Estoril Blue
    - 04 M3, Carbon Black, 6 Speed Coupe
    - 06 M5, Black on Black, Full Leather.
    - 73 3.0CS, Tagia Green, 5 speed M30b35 converted

    Ex's: 1984 325e, 1988 325IX, 1992 525I, 1995 540i/6, 2002 330i, 2005 330xi, 1992 850i, 2003 330i #1, 2003 330i #2, 2002 330ci, 2004 330ci, 2007 328CI, 2007 335i, 2001 M3, 2006 M5 6 speed

  14. #14
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    Great! What do I jump pin 11 to, to get the engine cranking? I will have the key in the On position but, I at least it will show me that the engine will or won't turn over.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by drewusmaximus View Post
    Great! What do I jump pin 11 to, to get the engine cranking? I will have the key in the On position but, I at least it will show me that the engine will or won't turn over.
    Battery Voltage.
    Current:

    - 09 335i MSport, FBO.
    - 98 Euro M3, Estoril Blue
    - 04 M3, Carbon Black, 6 Speed Coupe
    - 06 M5, Black on Black, Full Leather.
    - 73 3.0CS, Tagia Green, 5 speed M30b35 converted

    Ex's: 1984 325e, 1988 325IX, 1992 525I, 1995 540i/6, 2002 330i, 2005 330xi, 1992 850i, 2003 330i #1, 2003 330i #2, 2002 330ci, 2004 330ci, 2007 328CI, 2007 335i, 2001 M3, 2006 M5 6 speed

  16. #16
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    I thought there was another pin that you can jump 11 to? For example, pin18. I'm just not sure what the other pin is.

  17. #17
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    I put on a new battery and nothing. The dsc sybol is on. Still no click or cranking when turning the key over. Not sure if this has to do with anything but, the rear driver side wheel is locked. The rear right wheel moves freely so I know it's not the brakes locked up. I'm not sure by putting the car on all four jackstands somehow triggered something to prevent the car from starting up. I know it's not fuel or spark because the issue is before the starter engages. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks!!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    Remove starter, test at local AutoZone.
    Let's confirm this, first.

  19. #19
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    .....
    Last edited by oke139; 12-28-2022 at 06:14 AM.

  20. #20
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    Can I disable the ews? Fir example, on the e34s you can cut the number 7 green wire on the DIN connector to disable the ews to pop in a performance chip. I'm wondering is there a similar solution in disabling the ews on the e46. I have a feeling the ews in preventing my car from starting.
    I would greatly appreciate it if someone can explain how to perform the ews delete on the e46. Maybe disabling the ews might solve the no start issue.
    Thanks in advance!

  21. #21
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    No, you cant delete the ews on these. You can unplug the EWS module and bridge the 2 large spade connections with a jumper wire. That will bypass the EWS for cranking, wont start though. Unplug the DME too or else you will need to have the system resynced before the car will start again.

    Are you getting crank signal at the starter? Should be getting 12v on the bigger of the 2 leads on the solenoid when the key is in the start position.
    Last edited by legoman67; 04-20-2017 at 10:27 PM.
    Current:

    - 09 335i MSport, FBO.
    - 98 Euro M3, Estoril Blue
    - 04 M3, Carbon Black, 6 Speed Coupe
    - 06 M5, Black on Black, Full Leather.
    - 73 3.0CS, Tagia Green, 5 speed M30b35 converted

    Ex's: 1984 325e, 1988 325IX, 1992 525I, 1995 540i/6, 2002 330i, 2005 330xi, 1992 850i, 2003 330i #1, 2003 330i #2, 2002 330ci, 2004 330ci, 2007 328CI, 2007 335i, 2001 M3, 2006 M5 6 speed

  22. #22
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    sounds like ews lost inialization (sorry spelling) from jump starting and low batterys. are you jump starting from under hood terminals or are you going right to the battery in trunk? its a very simple system b+ from trunk to fuse panel under dash and directly to jump start terminal under hood. from there goes right to large cable on starter. the ignition and ews send the start signal to dme, then 12v to the starter to cause the solenoid to activate and engage starter. (I know this is a very generic description but you get the point) if starter does not spin up you need to physically check the voltage to the small wire at the starter while some one tries to start the vehicle. if everything is working you will have 12v there while key is held in start position, goes away when key is released. you should have 12v on large wire all the time. I have seen countless ews-dme faults from jump starting improperly. or letting batteries fail completly.

    Test the voltage at starter, replace battery (find why battery failed also), if voltage is good, test starter. replace if neccesary.
    Last edited by 90turbo1; 04-21-2017 at 10:46 AM. Reason: error
    Level 1 Certified BMW tech.

  23. #23
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    I'm jump starting straight to the battery in the trunk. It was odd that the battery died overnight the few times I tried to jump it.

  24. #24
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    A new 12 volt car battery today lives effective 3 to 5 years. WALMART batteries much less.

    Starting requires large 'amperage' in spite of a meter showing +12 volts !

    Healthy batteries maintain at minimum at 12.6 volts upon months at idol.........

    WalMart china batteries work...but for short lengths of time.....

    There are battery makers in the world that build 10 to 20 year life.

    Don't buy a WALMART battery..............period!
    Last edited by Eaglesail; 04-24-2017 at 06:17 PM.

  25. #25
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    any updates

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