Alright so I am going to have a set of e36 arms extended so I can ditch the e46 ones that got clearanced last season by my wheels, but destroyed the tires in the process.
I know everyone that I've seen do it has cut the end off and just extended it with a chunk of steel. To be honest though even with a great welder doing the work I have always been wary of that method for a couple reasons. I haven't personally seen any failure with them but to me there are a lot of sideways forces being applied to a couple butt welds, and then the other is required fixturing.
So for my question. Aside from the sway bar mount, is there any reason that they can't or shouldn't be extend like I'm thinking below? My thought is a stronger union than the other method if I do some plates to overlap the cut on the inside "dish" parts on the top and bottom.
Why not just chop that whole section out, then notch a piece of 1.5" .250 dom to slip over the horizontal area of the "I-beam" and weld in?
- - - Updated - - -
We do radius arms like that when guys are on a budget. Here's a link to a thread detailing what I mean. You can apply the same theory here.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ford/.../912061?page=1
No, a foot of 1.5" .250 DOM is only 3.34 lbs.
- - - Updated - - -
As far as wheel placement, could you not just flip the offset lollipops used with e46 arms or go back to centered lollipops to center the wheel in the well? Or for that matter, just put a bend in the tube. My cheap JD2 bender can easily handle quarter wall tube in 1.5" OD.
Last edited by welchct; 03-27-2017 at 08:20 PM.
I mean you could but id try to maintain the OEM geometry as close as possible because its been proven on effective ways to get caster in spec. A degree difference on a small bend is hard to control and could have a big difference. id make a jig that holds the bushing "titty" and the ball joint so you can keep the outer ball joint square to the other two mounting locations. I do like the DOM tube idea though and seems much safer than but welds to old rusty cast steel.
Oh, I'd definitely recommend building a double sided jig to not only control geometry, but make sure both arms are perfect mirrors of one another. I'm just saying there are a lot of easy ways you can keep the arms from pushing the tires too far forward.
SLR has some cool weld-on extender ends now that include a spherical bearing outer ball joint.
- - - Updated - - -
And that is a cool thread Welch! I like that idea a lot. If I didn't have my cool SLR extenders coming already, I might have done something like that.
Last edited by tptrsn; 03-28-2017 at 11:20 AM.
I'd like pix of said extenders when they come in plz.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
I did see a pic of them somewhere, but I can't remember where.. I actually ordered one of the budget kits that will include the extenders. I kind of thought it would be a humorous juxtaposition to put some really nice parts on my s#!tbox car.
Not planning to install them until after the season opener up here though, since right now I'm struggling to make enough garage time to get my turbo setup done.
Post pics when you get them!
IIRC jalopi has sets of extended e36 arms available, does he not?
see here : https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...30-36-46/page3
If he is not selling them, at the very least you could see how he went about performing such a task. (Glow-In-The-Dark paint is presumably optional)
dd856891966b05853ccbd2ed918f1720.jpg
We have a bunch of these ready to ship currently. They will actually come with the outer pre-welded and the bearing already pressed in. The raw TIG'd ones are so pretty it's ridiculous.
They need some sort of paint just for corrosion protection so we'll probably just clear them rather than cover the nice colors. Considering nickel-plating also
Bearing goes on the left, control arm goes on the right.
Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?
Been a while everyone. I'm still selling extended control arms and have been planning on putting my extensions up for sale once I burn through my current inventory of arms. Though if people *just*can't*wait* for my arm extensions, I'd be willing to sell em before then. Here's a few shots
Though they're nowhere near as fancy as the SLR extensions (gotta tip my hat to you here Sean, those look really good) but if you're on a budget and don't have the best welder in the world, I've got your back
For about the cost of a cheap mans' date these days, you can get a pair of pre-beveled 63mm extensions made out of solid 1018 grade steel
The bevel reduces the thickness of the extension to approximately 3/16"
This puts the extensions into the realm of getting near 100% penetration with even 110V machines, provided the correct welding techniques are used
Feel free to PM me or send an email to jalopi@bimmerperformance.com for pricing info or more details
Last edited by jalopi; 04-05-2017 at 04:01 PM.
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Well you'll have to ignore my ugly welds. I wound up doing it my way, lol. In the low section I overlapped a piece of 1/4" and buttwelded 3/8" bar on the edges.
These are 1.5" longer than stock. The way I built my jig I can add other lengths if I want to try something different.
Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
As usual I like your approach to handling this issue Nic! Were you able to shape your bridging plates so they sort of hold the ends of the control arm flat and straight for welding all by themselves, or did you really need your jig to ensure proper alignment?
No you're right. My jig is pretty simple and pretty much only has 4 points of contact, the ball joints and the rear mount point. I also did have a stand off to set flat near the inside ball joint. But just a couple clamps holding my bridge plates while I tacked them. I'll grab a picture of my jig when I get a chance.
For me, a piece of aluminum square stock + three C clamps did the trick just fine
Popular engine swap weights & stock engine weights
M42 + trans - 427lbs
302 + t5 trans - 475lbs
m20b27 + g260 - 497lbs
m52b25 vanos + g250 - 544lbs
351w + t5 trans - 572.5lbs
LS, aluminum block + t56 - 609lbs
LS, iron block + t56 - 719lbs, EST.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...60-m42-1jz-2jz
Bookmarks