Next week I'm planning to replace both my tie-rods and control arm bushings. And of course I will require an alignment afterward.
Now as I understand it typically the car must be weighted with 500lbs. to perform the alignment. However, that is for a full, four wheel alignment; including camber, caster, etc.; not just toe. That said, since I'm only replacing the tie rods and CABs, is it really necessary to adjust anything other than the toe? And does that require weighting?
Thanks in advance for your input
Regards,
-V
Last edited by VCOUI; 03-26-2017 at 11:59 PM.
"Sometimes, it's all about the journey..." Current Bimmer: 2000 323ci Convertible
Past Bimmers: 2006 Z4 3.0si, 1997 528i, 1995 M3, 1989 325ic, 1973 2002 tii, 1987 528e, 1982 528e
the only thing that actually gets thrown out during tie rods is the front toe. Toe can be set without an alignment rack, and we usually decide case by case if we just set the toe for the customer or recommend a proper alignment. Usually the tires tell us or if its a customer we know just had a full alignment done not long before.
Shops also need to cover their bases, and technically after any suspension work an alignment should be done. If you send a customer away after doing tie rods and only setting toe, then they come back 3 months later with heavy camber wear it puts the shop in a difficult position.
Last edited by legoman67; 03-26-2017 at 11:12 PM.
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You can simply pull a piece of string from the front outer edge of the front tire, across the rear tire, and observe the differences in string-to-rim distance (two in front, two in back). Then adjust front tie rods so that things are pretty much straight ahead, or the front tires toe in a little bit, maybe 3-4 mm. Then look closely at your tires every 200 miles and see how the wear if any is occurring.
I'd do this if your present front tires are already worn, or if you're a cheapskate like me. You can, if careful, get it pretty close to stock specs. Another way to tell is how the car behaves (noise, turn-in response, grip) during left and right turns at various speeds.
Charlie
Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to these threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same or similar problem stands on your shoulders.
Aliment is fundamental....however, factory front align....is generally point direction on......THE CAR is set from factory....All Chinese and Mexico produced 2017...are set to a minimal adjustment too! i JUST WANT TO SLEEP ......go AWAY.......WAKE UP TOMORROW....AND SCREW ANOTHER HUMAN BEING...donald trump
Last edited by Eaglesail; 03-27-2017 at 07:36 PM.
Fortunately, I've since concluded that my issue is in fact, likely warn control arm bushings and not the tie rods as initially suspected. Unfortunately, I need to replace all 4 tires. [long story...] After replacing the CABs and tires, is there anything I should look for, keep an eye on, other the the obvious, "does the car track straight" and not follow the ruts in the road?
Last edited by VCOUI; 04-03-2017 at 12:31 PM.
"Sometimes, it's all about the journey..." Current Bimmer: 2000 323ci Convertible
Past Bimmers: 2006 Z4 3.0si, 1997 528i, 1995 M3, 1989 325ic, 1973 2002 tii, 1987 528e, 1982 528e
If you recently had a good 4 wheel alignment done and you only replace the fcabs which only affects the front wheels, the thing to watch for is what you said and also if the steering wheel is straight while driving a straight course.
Replace whatever is worn or bent, damaged, this is a 17 yr.old vehicle after all.
On the front the only adjustment is Toe. I bought a little laser front end alignment tool for setting toe. It works great. Checked the toe with and without a driver in the car. Toe was not measurably affected.
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