E36 328i misfire and mayham

**WadiM3** · 03-26-2017, 08:12 PM

My 328i e36 with an m50 manifold has been not idling smooth for a few months, I didn't pay much attention to it, 4 days ago it started misfiring really badly and would stall if I hadn't revved. Woke up the next day drove it really gently just till I finish work. On the way back from work I lost my brakes, the peddle went really hard and stiff and wouldn't do anything, the car started misfiring really badly, I unplugged the MAF car would idle really rough. With the maf plugged in it won't idle and stall. Anyway I had it flatbedded to a mechanic, he told me I had a vacuum leak and showed me that my intake manifold has a big hole between cylinder 3 and 4. Apon patching it temporarily till I receive the new m50 manifold I noticed something in cylinder 2 valve it looked like some plastic. After connecting everything back up which I think I did something wrong as now I get white smoke from near cylinder 5 and 6 as the engine warms up abit and then this white smelly smoke comes in from the handbrake and the gearknob area too.

its almost impossible to find a mechanic with a smoke machine to test the intake here in London, I do get Rev increase when I spray brake cleaner by cylinder 1,3,4 and 6 just by the injectors.

car backfires and misfires really badly which scares me to run it. I did send Chris (bmwdirtracer) and Darin (dworthy) videos

got my mechanic to check fuel pressure, could and spark which doesn't seem to be the problem. We got a fault for a maf which I'm going to be replacing.

**bmwdirtracer** · 03-26-2017, 08:38 PM

Your brake failure is a prime clue: you have a massive vacuum / intake leak. Especially check the hose to the vacuum booster for the brakes. The booster itself may have a punctured diaphragm.

**WadiM3** · 03-26-2017, 08:42 PM

Check your email please. We pulled the m50 obd1 manifold and there was a big hole in the back of it and we patched it till I get a replacement manifold. What do you think I should do and how should I go about it? How do I check the diaphragm ? Do you think I will need to check the diagphram ? Coz as soon as I patched the hole the brakes came back again

**bmwdirtracer** · 03-27-2017, 06:14 AM

If your brakes are now fine, the intake leak has lessened. I answered your email. First thing to do will be to make sure the intake system is completely intact: new manifold with new gaskets and new injector o-rings, and all the plumbing underneath correctly hooked up and sealed. After that, if you're still getting backfires, I'd suspect bent or burned intake valves. Did you do a money shift?

**WadiM3** · 03-27-2017, 07:57 PM

Nonono! No money shift what so ever! How do I confirm on the valves? Did you watch the video on the email ?

**bmwdirtracer** · 03-27-2017, 09:29 PM

A leak down test is how you look for valve issues. I've watched several of the videos, but they really didn't show me anything useful, sorry.

It's always necessary to establish baselines, so that you can narrow down the possible culprit. Being 100% positive that the intake system is intact is at the top of the list....yours is not. After that, did you get your new MAF ? Sorry, please understand that I just really can't analyze further until we establish the baselines.

**WadiM3** · 03-28-2017, 02:52 AM

No I do understand, I'm waiting on my new MAF to arrive and my new manifold will be here in week!

**bmwdirtracer** · 03-29-2017, 10:28 PM

We're here for you, buddy.

I am off to VIR to teach this weekend though, you'll not hear from me before Monday.

It's due to rain on Friday; instructor's day....

**dworthy** · 03-30-2017, 12:54 PM

You should post up the "hole" in the intake, I think it is where the CCV returns the vapors to the intake, but without knowing the year the manifold came off of, it a bit of a stretch.

**WadiM3** · 03-30-2017, 04:57 PM

IMG_7210.PNG IMG_7206.PNGIt was a m50 manifold from a 325i e36.

thanks guys for the support! The car is going into the mechanic tomorrow for some testing and having a look at the piping

**WadiM3** · 03-30-2017, 05:14 PM

Someone's gonna be having fun with a m5 sliding around on the track !!!! Get us some videos dude!

**WadiM3** · 04-12-2017, 07:48 PM

Got the new M50 manifold and MAF but having problems fitting the M50. Old m50 is top and bottom is the new one. These connectors are just missing and I don't know what they are for ?

**328 Power 04** · 04-13-2017, 09:25 AM

M50 manifold is a conversion retrofit. That means some modifications are necessary to make it work. Your previous manifold had some sort of retrofitting done to get it to work. The bottom manifold is just a regular M50 manifold.
You either need a conversion kit, or to modify it somewhat like your original manifold. That or seal your original one where it may be leaking.

**WadiM3** · 04-13-2017, 01:15 PM

The original one is unfixable I'd say as I tried to seal it and it didn't really work great! What's the easiest mod to get the new m50 to work ?

**328 Power 04** · 04-13-2017, 01:29 PM

http://m50manifold.com//index.php?op...d=26&Itemid=40 cheaper, not nearly as 'polished' kit

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-3...52s52/?pdk=AAE best

**WadiM3** · 04-13-2017, 02:16 PM

Is there a way my mechanic can make a kit? I'm sure he can do it he just doesn't know how the conversion works tbh

- - - Updated - - -

Oh and I changed my spark plugs to ngk bkr6equp as I always see Chris and Darin always recommending them.. I've heard the bkr6eix is better though they are two prongs but I just feel safe with what Chris and Darin recommended

IMG_7716.jpg

**MIKYZZ4** · 04-13-2017, 04:43 PM

Two prong, four prong, all just a marketing gimmick.
You do know that only 1 prong actually fires, right?
Current follows the path of least resistance, whichever prong that may be,
Not down both of them simultaneously, with double the spark.
No, sorry, it just doesn't happen. Single prong-center electrode-even burn pattern, still the best:
https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9330

**WadiM3** · 04-13-2017, 05:39 PM

Mikey, that's the one I was told to get by a few people. But I trust Chris and Darin on what they have advised, also I'm sure BMW wouldn't advertise and Sell the EQUP's as the high power version of their sparkplugs

**MIKYZZ4** · 04-13-2017, 06:28 PM

Yes Wadi, it is the same one recommended by others. Best sparkplug debates can go the same way as best oil debates-neverending!
I feel going with either one is fine for you, your free to take my recommendation, or the choice that Chris or Darin prefer.
I'm just letting you know my personal preference, based on my experiences, and others concerning multiprong plugs.
The performance and idling characteristics YOU receive from them is what's important. Maybe buy a set of each,
and swap between the 2 cars you own, notice if one improves over the other.

**WadiM3** · 04-13-2017, 06:47 PM

Right! Now sparkplugs are the least of my worries.. what is my biggest worry is getting this engine to run without misfiring and to fit this m50 manifold somehow! Looks like those kits will take a while to reach me.. anyone knows how I can get my mechanic to make a kit or something ?

**bmwdirtracer** · 04-13-2017, 07:32 PM

Sorry, my friend, I have zero experience with the M50 manifold swap.

**WadiM3** · 04-13-2017, 08:31 PM

Exactly what I was hoping not to hear from ya Chris!!!!!!!

What i dont seem to understand is why the car still misfires fires with the MAF unplugged? It's supposed to run on open loop and shouldn't really be bothered by vacuum leaks right? I know I have a vacuum leak still because when I start the car I have no brakes the peddle is still hard unless I Rev the engine abit! And also I changed spark plugs to eliminate that factor. I highly doubt its fuel pressure related either because as soon as I drive past 2000-2500 rpm the car goes like a bullet and also when it's over 2500 rpm it never misfires it really leads me to think it's vacuum related. Until I find a way to put this new manifold on I don't know

**bmwdirtracer** · 04-16-2017, 09:00 AM

Try blocking off the brake vacuum hose, to see if you still get a misfire. The fact that your pedal is "hard until you rev it" indicates you may have a leak in the brake vacuum diaphragm. (Yes, the pedal will be rock hard, you'll need to push REALLY hard to stop.)

**WadiM3** · 04-16-2017, 02:47 PM

Can you show me which one that is please ? Thanks for checking up Chris

also the car is on the old repaired manifold. When I spray brake cleaner around the repaired section it does seem to rev up

**bmwdirtracer** · 04-16-2017, 04:24 PM

Hi buddy,

The brake vacuum booster has a large hose going to it...maybe 20mm outside diameter, 12mm inside diameter. This hose will go from somewhere on the intake manifold to the vacuum booster. The hose will have a one-way valve somewhere in the middle; usually black on one side, white on the other. Depending on how your system is set up (M50 vs M52), the vacuum may begin at something called a "jet valve" or similar. Really, it doesn't matter, just block off the manifold side of this hose..