Tie rod arm/lever

[tonym427]

I'm replacing my control arms and one of them is stuck and won't budge even with a press. That leaves me with purchasing a new tie rod arm. However the only parts I can find are '87 and up. My car is an 85 (32211125739) and a new one would be $100+. Are the later parts interchangeable? Will there be a difference if I replace both arms with 87 parts? Thanks!

For an 87 >>>>

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E24-635C...q5f0oA&vxp=mtr

[iziksun]

Tony, have you tried giving the tie rod arm a few hard blows? I just did this same thing on mine and was in a similar situation. I had mine under pressure for 24 hours while subjecting it to wd40 and it didn't budge. The next day, I gave a few angry blows to the side of the tie rod arm and when I put it back in the press it popped right out.

[mauryc]

BFH works every time.

[RSheiman]

A little propane torch from Home Depot has bailed me out numerous times (assuming the ball joint that is stuck is being replaced).

[Bert Poliakoff]

Two good sized hammers. Put one on one side and whack the other side hard. It should free it up, but I will say mine were so badly stuck it took over 2000 pounds of pressure with a press to bust them loose

[Layne]

I don't know what the difference is between early and late E24, but I can tell you the only difference between an early E28/24 and an E34/32 is the width of the locating key (and the strut has a correspondingly wider groove to fit it). Other than that, there is no difference in the geometry. One could assume that's also the difference in early and late E24, but assuming doesn't always work. Of course the different size keys prevent interchanging them, and altering the keys would most likely be worth more than $100.

[Freshbread]

Does the hammer need to be gold BP )

[Bert Poliakoff]

Dan, I can't believe it took you that long to answer! How's that 745 runnning??