New BMW E32 750i Owner and some questions

[bertrito]

Hi Everyone,

I have been looking recently for a project car and something unique to own and keep for life here in the Philippines. I found a V12 e32 and just purchased it last January. This is in fact my first BMW. It was imported from Japan by the previous owner. The car is running fine with cool AC and has nice interior compared to other e32 that I scouted for.

1992 BMW E32 750i.jpg

However, due to its old age and some dodgy fixes by the previous owner, I started dismantling things to fix and restore the car. I just plan on fixing most of the issues by my self. I will get help if I can't carry the part or weight is too heavy or at least 2 people are needed to do the job. Below are some issues, some have been partially resolved. Please bear with me since this is just a hobby of mine and will not be focusing on the car full time daily and as mentioned this is my first BMW. I will also be updating this thread from time to time until everything is fully restored. I guess this might take a long time. If anybody has suggestion, advice, answers or any comment please just chime in.

1. Door locks

a. All locks work except front passenger side door
- Removed trim and found out that switch has been disconnected, due to broken rod connector. I bent a new rod to connect the actuator. Now everything is in sync.

b. Simultaneous locking does not work when key is in the off position.

c. A braided wire was used to retract the actuator of the fuel filler door to open it. You will need to access it from the trunk everytime you need to fill her up. Why did the previous owner do this? Hmmm.
- Found out the connector was disconnected, so I removed the dodgy fix and reconnected the wiring to the actuator, so everything works when driver door is locked or unlocked

2. OBC does not work

a. A wire has been cut and spliced to the rear cigarette lighter, I think to get main power?
- I removed it and will try to follow the main wiring

3. Radio has been replaced and new wiring has been done just to the rear speakers only since front speakers are missing.

- I will try to use the original wiring harness and replace the amplifier.
- Do you think it is better to use the old amplifier or just replace it?

4. A separate switch to switch on the compressor has been installed under the steering wheel.

- I think this has been done due to the burnt fuse at the engine bay. I will update this once I get it back to the original wiring. I wonder why this solution has been done by the previous owner instead of fixing the wiring to the fuse.

5. Gear position is wrongly displayed at the cluster except for drive and the lower gears but behaves as intended. Park shows blank, Reverse shows 3, Neutral shows reverse.

- What do you think is the problem of a wrong gear position at the cluster?

6. ASC light is normal when engine is started but would stay on after a few seconds of driving.

7. Reservoir for CHF has been filled with ATF. There are some leaks. For the mean time I will top up with ATF until I fix the leaks. I will also replace it with CHF.

8. Engine bay is really dirty expect for the intake manifolds.

- I'm currently following the top end refurbish instructions. I will replace the vacuum and fuel hoses.
- In putting back the parts at both ends of the intake manifold, will RTV sealant be enough without paper gaskets since there are no available gaskets at the moment? I have to order online from Europe or the US due to scarcity of parts in my country.

9. Hard steering at low speed after driving for a while.

10. Front shocks need to be replaced as well as some suspension parts (front and rear)

11. Some wires at the right corner of the engine bay, near the water reservoir (I guess for the headlight washer?) have been twisted together.

- I'm still trying to find out what these wires are for. I will post pictures later.

There are other issues especially with wiring under the rear seat. I have been trying to decipher the diagrams from the repair manual. Maybe you guys can help me identify these when I get pictures next time.

[XAlt]

ATF is functional as a substitute unless it's mixed, be careful when you flush it out. Renzosil is the preferred sealant, but you can use sensor safe RTV in a pinch.

Beautiful SWB car, Japan imports always have something special with them.

[shogun]

Welcome here. I also have a Japan spec E32 750iL, so I can help with some Japan spec questions later, if required.
First of all some links you need
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do
http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e32/ this is US spec wiring, some will be different on your Japan spec car.
https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/
http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/
http://www.e38.org/e32/
then go to my website below, there are many DIY infos, also links to other E32 DIY sites.
Also might be able to send you over from Japan to the Phils some parts used or new if needed, relays, modules, Motronic or EML control modules, other control modules, have plenty.
As for ordering in the U.S., you can order for example from FCPEURO, they ship worldwide and have good shipping rates to overseas https://www.fcpeuro.com/

1. Door locks
a. All locks work except front passenger side door
- Removed trim and found out that switch has been disconnected, due to broken rod connector. I bent a new rod to connect the actuator. Now everything is in sync.
b. Simultaneous locking does not work when key is in the off position. >>>>>from where do you want to lock? Key must be out and in the lock
>>>>>re-sync http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/Locked.htm

c. A braided wire was used to retract the actuator of the fuel filler door to open it. You will need to access it from the trunk everytime you need to fill her up. Why did the previous owner do this? Hmmm.
>>>>>Normally there is a lock motor, maybe that is not working

2. OBC does not work >>>>some tips http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_2.htm

4. A separate switch to switch on the compressor has been installed under the steering wheel.
- I think this has been done due to the burnt fuse at the engine bay. I will update this once I get it back to the original wiring. I wonder why this solution has been done by the previous owner instead of fixing the wiring to the fuse.
>>>>>see below my comments, looks like the low and hi pressure switch on the dryyer were disconnected. Also check if the aux fan works http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_20.htm
5. Gear position is wrongly displayed at the cluster except for drive and the lower gears but behaves as intended. Park shows blank, Reverse shows 3, Neutral shows reverse.
- What do you think is the problem of a wrong gear position at the cluster?
>>>first of all clean the switch>>>>> http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/page_13.htm

6. ASC light is normal when engine is started but would stay on after a few seconds of driving.>>>>do a test http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1260645

7. Reservoir for CHF has been filled with ATF. There are some leaks. For the mean time I will top up with ATF until I fix the leaks. I will also replace it with CHF.>>>you can also use Febi Bilstein equivalent for Pentosin

- In putting back the parts at both ends of the intake manifold, will RTV sealant be enough without paper gaskets since there are no available gaskets at the moment? I have to order online from Europe or the US due to scarcity of parts in my country.
>>>>>should be possible, or buy locally paper gasket sheets and cut them to fit
9. Hard steering at low speed after driving for a while. >>>>>>>>see my website below under fixes steering, maybe the module is defective hbehind the speaker left hand footwell

10. Front shocks need to be replaced as well as some suspension parts (front and rear)>>>>FCPEURO has them

11. Some wires at the right corner of the engine bay, near the water reservoir (I guess for the headlight washer?) have been twisted together.- I'm still trying to find out what these wires are for. I will post pictures later.
>>>> that could be the wires for low and high pressure switches for the aircon, normally connected to the top of the aircon dryer which is located below the lower washwater tank. That can also explain why they made a separate switch
see here some pics http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/airc...con_R134a.html

I have Japanese language wiring diagrams for the E32 for model from 09/1990 = 1991 model year. This is Japan spec. , several files, and in Japanese language, so probably it will not help you.

[bertrito]

Thank you XAlt and shogun.

1. Door locks
>>>>>from where do you want to lock? Key must be out and in the lock
Once everything is shut off, no simultaneous locking happens, I need to lock the door one at a time and of course lock the driver's door last with the key outside. For the mean time, I just lock the driver's door to lock all doors before turning off the ignition. I think there is no power to the central locking system when ignition is off.

[bertrito]

​Can you help me identify these things.

1. Wires twisted together (yellow circles) - right front corner of engine bay
wires - front right corner engine bay.jpg


2. Connector (yellow circle) - fuse box engine bay. Notice that blue with purple stripe wire has been cut.
wire - near fuse box engine bay.jpg


3.Connectors encircled in yellow, red and green? -this is under the rear seat near battery
wire - under rear seat near battery.jpg


4. Connectors (blue circle) and Module (yellow circle) - inside the left side of trunk/boot.
trunk.jpg

[shogun]

As for the locking problem, I assume that the wire loom is broken from A-pillar to the door, here you can see the rubber at the lower section of the door and A-pillar, pull that back and see if there are wires broken inside, also inside the door
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ns-Replacement
To remove the door panel, see here under fixes>>>body http://bmwe32.masscom.net/
copied from a German forum, pinout of the plug door wire loom
Der Stecker hat 26 Pins aber es sind je nach Ausrüstung / Version nur 21 oder weniger benutzt.
the plug has 26 pins, but depending on optional extras/ version only 21 pins or less are used

Pin 3 2,5 bl/ge Fensterheber window lift
Pin 4 0,5 br/bl Fensterheber window lift
Pin 5 0,75 bl Zentralverriegelung central locking
Pin 6 0,75 ws Zentralverriegelung central locking
Pin 7 0,75 sw Zentralverriegelung central locking
Pin 12 0,5 bl/gr/ge DWA drive away protection
Pin 13 0,5 ws/gn/ge Zentralverriegelung central locking
Pin 14 0,5 ws/rt/ge Zentralverriegelung central locking
Pin 15 0,5 bl/rt/ge DWA drive away protection
Pin 17 2,5 sw/ws Fensterheber window lift
Pin 19 0,5 br/gr/ws DWA
Pin 20 0,75 bl/ws Aussenspiegel outside mirror
Pin 21 0,75 bl/gn Aussenspiegel outside mirror
Pin 22 0,75 bl/sw Aussenspiegel outside mirror
Pin 23 0,5 br/rt Fussraumleuchte light in door panel
Pin 25 1 bl/rt/ge Lautsprecher speaker
Pin 26 1 bl/gn Lautsprecher speaker

The rest is up to the electr. experts

[E32FAN]

​Can you help me identify these things.

1. Wires twisted together (yellow circles) - right front corner of engine bay

2. Connector (yellow circle) - fuse box engine bay. Notice that blue with purple stripe wire has been cut.

3.Connectors encircled in yellow, red and green? -this is under the rear seat near battery

4. Connectors (blue circle) and Module (yellow circle) - inside the left side of trunk/boot.

I only have 735iL cars, which are simpler and lack some of your wiring.

#1 Both connectors are for the AC compressor pressure switches, I think. Page 6450-22
#2 I have this white 4-pin connector in my car, but I cannot locate it in the schematics! Wires are: BRN-YEL, BRN, BLU, BLU-VIOL.
#3 Green circle is the Brake Lining Warning sensor connector, 2-pins. Page 3435-01. X713
Perhaps the red and yellow circles are for the electric rear seat?
#4 Not in my car. Yellow box looks to be aftermarket.

[E32FAN]

Thank you XAlt and shogun.

1. Door locks
>>>>>from where do you want to lock? Key must be out and in the lock
Once everything is shut off, no simultaneous locking happens, I need to lock the door one at a time and of course lock the driver's door last with the key outside. For the mean time, I just lock the driver's door to lock all doors before turning off the ignition. I think there is no power to the central locking system when ignition is off.

Central Locking is shown in Section 5126.

Fuses are: F20 (front power box) and F11, F30, F31, (rear box). All of these are "HOT AT ALL TIMES".
If you turn the key in the trunk lock (with the car not running), does Central Locking work?

[bertrito]

Thank you so much guys for the info.

@E32FAN
I'll try that when I get home if turning the key in the trunk lock works with the central locking.

[shogun]

Here are Japan spec wiring diagrams for download, on Japan spec cars there is a lot different, fior example the relay and the temp sensors on the rear of the cat for cat overheat alarm etc
download them before they disappear, this is all I found, once uploaded from an E32 750 owner from Canada with Japan spec car, only this built year I have
https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=%...3D03B3EA789FC2

[bertrito]

Greatly appreciate it shogun. I'm downloading the files now.