Hey guys,
So first post here, I am the new owner of a 1992 (09 of 91) 325I (Non-Vanos). Love the car but have not had a chance for any real seat time due to some running/idling issues. Here's where I am at...
Cars fires great, runs awesome COLD. As soon as it starts to warm up it begins to bog down, misfire, low idle, occasionally stalls. Once its warm it idles horribly and sputters/cuts out on throttle until you get above 1900-2200 rpm and then it clears up and runs pretty nicely, but only up top.
So far I have done new battery, new spark plugs, cam position sensor, crank position sensor, inspected and cleaned the ICV, and swapped out the MAF for one from a wrecker (cannot find a "new" one around here anywhere). I checked the fuel pump and it is pushing the proper pressure (50-53psi) and the regulator appears to be acting as it should. ***EDIT*** Also cut out the old "home made" exhaust and built my own 3" with brand new O2 sensor***
So far no real progress, all issues are pretty much unchanged. I changed the MAF because I got a friend to scan it and it was giving him MAF malfunction codes. So swapped one in from a wrecker and it appears to have made things a tiny bit better, but still fires nice and runs great cold and then warms up and fails.
I am going to swap the fuel filter today and continue to try and run through the previous owners old gas (got it with 1/4 tank and put in 3/4 tank right away). Also will probably through a fuel pressure regulator at it just to know its good.
I am looking for any help/insight, this is my first computer driven German car so its a bit of a learning curve.
Thanks guys.
Last edited by Over It; 03-22-2017 at 09:37 PM.
O2 sensors ?
they don't start to work until the engine is warm
Last edited by samy01; 03-22-2017 at 12:18 PM.
Vacuum leaks,smoke test it. then 02 sensor.
Sorry!
***EDIT***
Car came with the worlds worst "home made" exhaust that had a horribly damaged O2 sensor welded in place, cut it all off and build a 3" exhaust for it with a brand new O2 sensor.
That somewhat important piece of information should have probably been in the original post.
Any other ideas? I havent really had a chance to give it a serious vacuum test yet, definitely on the list.
Also am I correct when I read that Euro Spec early E36s do not have a CEL? (Check Engine Light)? If that is true, how can one go about checking codes?
Thanks for the quick response guys.
MIght as well do a compression test.
Euro-spec E36 does not have a CEL. You need to get a Peake Code Reader.
It should run with the O2 disconnected, give that a shot and see.
Forgive my lack of knowledge, but what will (should) disconnecting the O2 sensor show me? What should be the result?
And if they do not have a CEL, is there any way to read codes in the cluster?
Thanks
Disconnecting the O2 will at least show you if the problem is somehow caused by the new O2 sensor (i.e. a dud one, wrong type, bad wiring etc).
If there is no CEL, you have to read codes via the BMW diagnostic connector in the engine bay. There is no other way around it, the codes aren't stored in the cluster. All that has in it is your speedometer, odometer and all that. No diagnostic capability.
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