it is your aux. air pump that sounds like a vacuum cleaner for the first 60-90 seconds. Very loud. It pumps air into your exhaust to allow the cats to heat up faster. Unless you hear a squeal/bad bearing, it is fine. Sometimes the electric relays get stuck in the on position and they will continue to run, but for the most part, they are trouble free and you don't have to worry about them.
Thanks. I think it just sounds like the cheap motor on one of those 12V emergency tire inflators, and those things don't last long. My background is almost all American crap cans of the late 70's and early 80's, so I am not used to this many systems at all.
The secondary air pump is an irritating and useless part, it's literally only there to please the emissions people on cold starts. They're easily removed and coded out— you save weight and avoid having your E39 sound like a vacuum cleaner upon a cold startup.
1995 525i 5-speed - Thread
Starting to get my head wrapped around this thing. Knocking out the minor details is building confidence. Got the bumper hung a little better.
Lower wheel liners are on order to clean it up a little more, as well as the missing trim under the headlamps.
I have a check coolant level warning, but the level looks right, new level sensor is on order.
Dash reads -40, and with no lower wheel liners the dangling exterior temp sensor makes me think I know why.
New side indicator Housing is in, but I somehow didn't think to order bulbs
All this is a long way of saying that despite having never even driven a BMW before last week, these forums really are a great resource for figuring out how to fix systems I didn't even know I had. Thanks
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2001 Salvage Title 540i
My build thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...toive-decision
Got the external temp sensor replaced, got the side indicator replaced. Attempted to fill washer fluid, and it all ran right out
I went to switch the coolant level sensor, and it looks like my replacement doesn't match.
Look at the difference in the locking tabs. So I had to put it back together with the old sensor. Does anyone have pics of theirs? I'm trying to figure out if I have a bad part, or if I have a knock off expansion tank. Anyone run into this before?
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2001 Salvage Title 540i
My build thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...toive-decision
Yep, wrong part. There might be a difference in the whole expansion tank between manufacturers, so that could explain the difference.
It's an easy part to check if it works, though.
The little glass ampule is a "reed switch." Bring a magnet close to it and the little reeds inside make contact. Check for continuity using an OHM meter.
If the switch works, then there is most likely a problem with the magnet inside the tank. Gonna need a new tank at that point, or just live with the error if your comfortable with the coolant level.
I soldered mine to a dead short to get rid of the error warning. I could not get it to work properly.
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Another thing you'll want to check is for oil in the sparkplug wells.
Pull off the side "beauty" covers and stick a flashlight down by cylinders 4 and 8. My bet is you have a pool of oil down there. Time for valve cover gaskets.
So what's a fair price for a cd43 radio with dead pixels? My research showed that a good condition one was $200. Pixel repair is like $200 also. That led me to just go aftermarket to get something working with Bluetooth at a reasonable cost (I just want to enjoy driving this car, not looking for a complete restoration. The cosmetic shortcomings on this car would bankrupt me). So I'll soon have a cd43a available that seems to work fine, except that about 3 total pixels work. Is this worth even posting on the classifieds, or is it a give away?
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2001 Salvage Title 540i
My build thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...toive-decision
In other news, I got the missing bumper trim, and got it looking as good as a busted, poorly re-sprayed bumper can
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Last edited by douglawrence42; 04-06-2017 at 08:03 PM.
2001 Salvage Title 540i
My build thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...toive-decision
New headlights
Finally got the right coolant level sensor. With that installed the check coolant warning went away.
Checked in the spark plug access, I have oil
I've put about 300 miles on, and haven't seen an oil drop. I think it's not to bad yet. The outer gasket seems good, no oil on engine rear
I'll be installing my lift in 2 weeks. After that, I'll take a look to see if I'm doing vcg only, or everything
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2001 Salvage Title 540i
My build thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...toive-decision
And a 1 roll of paper towels start on the engine bay
Before
After
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2001 Salvage Title 540i
My build thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...toive-decision
Around here (Seattle) salvage title cars are very undesirable. Maybe not the case where you are. The average person here won't touch them.
Excellent thread.
Congrats on jumping in and sorting.
There is a CRAP TON of info on the forums.
Keep reading and asking questions.
If you invest a few bucks, this sounds like a nice car!
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Where did you order headlights?
Have you learned how to use the RealOEM?
For the next step, try out www.furiousmethod.com for part price shopping.
E39 DIYs done: Wipers, O2 sensors , MAF , Upper/Lower Intake Boots , FSU , ABS module fix , Power Steering Reservoir , Changed Rear Differential Oil , DISA , SAP, Vacuum lines , Radar Detector Hardwire , Fuel Filter , LED Angel Eyes , Headlight Adjusters--> [1],[2], [3] , Headlight Polishing, Punted: Fan Clutch/Tensioner/Pulleys , Oil cap O-rings , Window regulator ,Crumbling Cowl
It is really common around here, at least for regular cars and trucks. Just about everyone gets their kid a salvage as a first car, and a lot of guys I work with are driving salvage trucks. We have a pretty large clearinghouse nearby, east coast auto source (not where my e39 is from). You generally save about %20 or more. In addition to the risks being higher, you can only carry liability insurance on a salvage (can't be totaled twice). So definitely not the thing to do for a showpiece
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2001 Salvage Title 540i
My build thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...toive-decision
Thanks! The lights were part of the car deal, the originals had quite a bit of broken plastic, and the guy offered to replace them as part of the deal. So no idea what they are, but I'm just pleased as can be that they aren't total garbage, and seem to fit well. Here is the info on the box
And yes, realoem is awesome, thanks again
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Last edited by douglawrence42; 04-09-2017 at 07:01 PM.
2001 Salvage Title 540i
My build thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...toive-decision
Cleaned the MAF with this stuff. I don't think it was all that dirty, or at least I couldn't tell a difference.
I had nothing but hot air from the vents. Found several good troubleshooting diy's. Checked that e-fan was coming on and compressor clutch kicked in, so yeah! Added refrigerant and got cold cold air in return. Hopefully that refrigerant will still be there tomorrow 🤞
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2001 Salvage Title 540i
My build thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...toive-decision
@ douglawrence42, I hope your spyder lights are better than mine. I've found "dark" patches on the lenses when it hits the road. I've not asked this question before, but your shipping box reminded me I wanted to ask. On my lights, I have the high beams that come on for DRLs and I'd like to flip that to the angle eyes. Anyone here know how to make the switch on these spyder branded lights? I'm hoping it's just a wire flip...
We will see. They were effectively "free". The guy promised me it would pass inspection. I assumed that meant he had a deal with the shade tree guy down the street, and was just trying to cover a glaring problem I hadn't found. In an ironic twist, I was pleased to find out the car did not pass inspection (hooray for honest shade tree guy)! It failed on a turn signal. I saw the guy furiously swapping in bulbs, but he couldn't get them to work. At some point, he decided he would order me new headlights and call it even. I have no idea what made him think new headlight assemblies would be the cure, but I wasn't going to argue. In reality, the culprit was the contacts in the bulb socket being a PITA. It takes some finesse (probably due to my socket connector) to install the bulb and the socket connector without creating either a no contact or a short because the contacts in the bulb socket can slide up and down in the bulb socket housing. So for the price I paid, I am %100 satisfied.
Replaced the frond windshield seal today
Old seal basically wasn't there
The old "seals"
The new
Done!
So that's 45 dollars and minutes well spent.
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2001 Salvage Title 540i
My build thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...toive-decision
I'm pretty sure I have those same lights that you have....Mine are usable but horrible. Projectors are cloudy, no definition to the light beam, bulbs barely twist in their sockets.....And for the life of me I can't get the drivers light to aim. At all. Period. A year later the rubber cup seals on the back are heat cracked and junk....Whick with a BMW no shocker there anyways lol
2000 740i - 149K - Dville Monsoon rear deck speaker upgrade, GROM audio Bluetooth
1998 528i - 204K - GROM audio Bluetooth setup, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, BSW Stage One speaker kit, Facelift Xenon's with Angel Eyes
2003 M3 - 210K - BMW Euro Cross Drilled Rotors
Good job!
2001 Z3 3.0i -Oxford Green/Sandbeige
2016 428xi -Estoril Blue II/Black
2018 430iC- Estoril Blue II/Black
2018 330it - Melbourne Red/Venetian Beige/Black
Nice lookin car. Given the fact of the front end cosmetically, and the seemingly apparent protrusion of the front edge passenger door (hard to see), this probably had a front end collision. just by looks. As long as it drives straight and handles well (Right and Left turns are equal in driver effort) its probably okay. Hopefully you didn't pay too much.
Thanks. To me it drives straight. No shimmy and good straight track at speed. As far as damage, it is all cosmetic, but extensive. Originally it was totaled in 2007 for "flood". It has a decent hit in the passenger door, and another in the passenger rear quaterpanel. Bumper issues all seem to be standard getting ripped off on a curb stuff. I don't think its original, there is a crappy respray. I've found overspray on the components behind the bumper. So we won't be winning any beauty contests, but it seems sound, and I love driving it
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2001 Salvage Title 540i
My build thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...toive-decision
I am planning. I should probably wait until I gather more data to start asking this question, but the alternative would be for me to be productive at work, and we can't have that. The big data point I am waiting on is dropping the oil pan. Lift gets installed Friday, should be able to have a look Early next week. Here is the situation:
1) I'll have a lot of time off in June. I'd like to use that time for some serious wrenching on the car. I'm in that weird point in my life where time is a lot more valuable then money (but please save the "buy a better car then" comments. Doing the work myself, becoming intimate with all the systems, and driving a car that I feel like I built is what I want to spend time on. That pairs well with my other hobbies, drinking and fishing.
2) After the June time block, it will probably be Christmas before I get another time block.
So what I have on my radar is either engine work or suspension refresh. If you have the time to read my ramblings, then maybe you have time to weigh in with advice.
I've never driven a car like this, so my opinion is kinda worthless on the state of the suspension. That said, nothing looks broken, but on age alone I have to figure it is time. I think suspension refresh is likely to have the best return on investment for enjoying the car. I was considering doing these items, but I haven't really shopped hard yet:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...3522229854kt6/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bilstein.../35-114093kt1/
On the other hand, addressing the suspension would be a huge mistake if I grenade my motor before Christmas. I have no codes on the scanner. Of the limited things I can read, the only one that strikes me as bad is "average rough running" for cylinder #6. All other cylinders read +/- 0.1. #6 is a constant 0.3. I do have some oil in the passenger side spark plug well, but not a lot. I am not marking the pavement anymore. I've driven 500 miles, and no fluid levels have dropped. At cold start and idle, it sounds perfect to my uneducated ear. After it warms up, I have a little something which I can only hear at idle. I've spent way to much time listening to a bunch of m62's making bad noises on you tube to try and match my noise up. My only certainty is that my noise is not at "ask you tube" levels. If I had to guess, I think it is low oil pressure due to either improper oil or oil pump issues (I might learn a lot if new plugs, new lower TC tensioner and a oil pan drop + new oil fixes anything next week). The most important diagnostic fact to me is that cold is fine, warm is where I hear things. Specifically what I hear is a slight knock at the very front of the engine. I don't think its from the valve covers. I need to pull my belt sometime and eliminate a bunch of possibilities. As soon as I decide to do one thing, a whole list of "while your there" things come up, and I quickly convince myself to do VCG, vanos, TCG, valley pan and CCV all in one huge build. That is possible for this June time block, but I suspect that I'll be replacing good parts as much as 50k miles early, while missing out on the suspension refresh.
So thats it. Salvage title 2001 540i6 with 100k on the clock. Time and money come together in June. What should I do?
Last edited by douglawrence42; 04-17-2017 at 10:48 AM.
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