I'm very new here, but I'm looking hard at a salvage title 2001 540i. I'm hoping for some pointers on what to look for regarding a specific car for sale, and hoping to get some ideas on what the work I don't want to do myself will cost. I'm very comfortable doing the mechanical work, but I don't have a clue when it comes to paint and body work. Really appreciate the advice I've seen on this forum, hopefully you have some good advice for me.
The car is a 2001 540i 6 speed. Asking $5k, which seems high, but I don't know what the real price is without asking. I don't have details on service or what caused the salvage condition (ad says "rebuilt" title, not sure what that means). Definitely a messed up front bumper, looks like a hit in one of the corner panels above a wheel well. I think chunks are missing inside the wheel well liners. So its really the quarter panel and the bumper that I assume I want no part of fixing, unless it is a case of replace the parts and take it somewhere for paint. Pics of the engine bay and service history are noticeably absent. Unless the dealer can show some proof, I will assume that I'm on the hook for cooling system, timing chain guides, vanos and suspension right off the bat, and modify my offer accordingly. I think I have an understanding for what that will cost me in time and parts. That said, I don't have a clue about the cosmetic items, and I don't know what else to look for. Any help is appreciated.
http://www.blueridgecars.com/2001-BM...5/Details.aspx
Based on your description of your talents and price range, I'd try to get one in excellent cosmetic condition that might need a little mechanical work you could do yourself. Took me a while to learn lesson: Don't buy first thing you look at. Sometimes....even often...."No" is the answer.
Offer 2K, 3K tops, you named all of the big ticket items. Also look for oddly worn tires which might be indicative of a big hit and tweaked body/frame. Salvage rebuilt is not the kiss of death depending on the why. If you don't know or cant identify the why. Walk.
Thanks, thats kind of what I'm thinking. Great tip on the tires. Anybody know what to look for on a wreck? I've seen some discussion that radiator mounts being tweaked are a sure sign that someone is doing a half-a**ed repair. Any others?
I just picked up my latest 540i 6 spd for $3,200 with a good title. Check kbb. I know people here who love these cars don't like what their market value is but kbb is based on what people are willing to pay. Salvage title could mean totaled and fixed from a collision, not necessarily a bad thing, just something to look into. It could also mean a flood damaged car which in my mind is worse given all the electronic controls. Check under the dash for signs of high water. Check the spare tire well & battery compartment for water damage and collision repairs. 100k might mean you're ready for a clutch and or cooling system work. Both of my 540i's had these done between 80k & 120k prior to me buying them so it would be nice to know the service history. Both these repairs are pretty steep for parts alone so documentation of service history is worth having. The car looks nice in the small ad pictures but it's not too hard to see signs of a less than perfect repaint so look it over close...and be ready to walk away. I tend to be my own worst enemy when I go to look at a car and I have trouble talking myself out of things so don't take a page out of my book! At 100k things like timing chains and guide should be 30k to 50k miles away (others here will tell you 100k+) but listen for extra valve chain noise up front as this is a "$500 to $700 parts alone" job. Pay attention to wiggles when driving (and turning) as suspensions need attention on these at this age & mileage. They're not hard to work on, just a little expensive to pick up parts for. Good luck, I like the look with those staggered wheels. Mine had them at one point but the only sign of that is my spare tire.
Get a pre-purchase inspection (PPI). I will never buy another used car without one. https://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/i...re-buying.html
FWIW: I would never buy salvage because the age of these cars presents enough of a challenge for me
I picked up mine with a clean title, properly maintained, black interior, no body rust, and a similar dent in the rockers for 3.5k. If you don't care about the exterior that much, you can easily find good cars on the cheap.
Don't bother with a salvage title unless it's an M5. I can understand the missing porkchop, headlight trim, bumper gap, etc.. but something just looks off about this.
Last edited by XAlt; 03-22-2017 at 11:05 AM.
Thank you all for your kind advice. I agree whole heartedly that when shopping for a project, being patient, waiting for the right deal, get a PPI, don't overpay are the way to go. Then I went and test drove a nice running V8 six speed while having full permission from my wife to do whatever I wanted. But still, I knew, that I was about to make a foolish mistake. I thought "Well, I'll just low ball this shady as hell dealer, he'll tell me to get lost, and I'll calm down, ready for a life of sensible decisions". So I offered $2k. He came down to $2800. I was not strong. I own a 540i now.
good News- Seems to run strong, no ticking or vanos type symptoms. No CEL. Fun to drive. Oil smelled good, despite not being brand new. Rebuilt title was issued in 2007, 50k miles since then. Car fax shows regular service, but dealer who serviced put in almost no details of what was done.
Bad News- Service history is inadequate. Lots of cosmetic details. Front bumper cover is trash, as is passenger rocker right where bumper, rocker, and liner all tie together. No evidence of VA-NOS or guide work. Only confirm-able coolant system work is a new looking water pump. Suspension is predictably tired.
If your going to be stupid, you need to be tough. I guess I'll be tough. On the brightside, I could get lucky. And when that doesn't happen I can go ahead and make my mistakes on a beater before spending M money to do it right.
I'll get pictures up as soon as I figure out how to do it
Need to do something about the front bumper. I'd like to half a** it for now because I will go broke on missing trim and cosmetics. Then fluids, filters, plugs, and drive it a bit to see what's most broken
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2001 Salvage Title 540i
My build thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...toive-decision
Noticed a bit of dried coolant from the expansion tank bleed screw.
2000 528i sport
EMP Stewart water pump
Dice iPod adapter
Alpine amplifiers
MB Quart speakers
MTX BGE12 subwoofer
AudioControl EQL equalizer
Thanks. Definitely smell coolant. Haven't found my way around this thing yet. Should get to tear in tomorrow.
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2001 Salvage Title 540i
My build thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...toive-decision
I see you are missing the clip that holds that small 3/4" coolant line that runs in front of the water pump. Try to get that secure so that it doesn't get fouled up in the fan or worse. I would suggest putting a piece of cardboard underneath the car over night and see where there are drips. Might help with your coolant leak. And that engine bay needs a good scrubbing! Other than that it looks clean. I think you did well!
Drove about 20 miles yesterday, parked it. Waited overnight. This is all that was waiting for me. My uneducated guess at 6:00 with a nose to stuffed to smell good is power steering. Is that the power steering pump right above the leak?
2001 Salvage Title 540i
My build thread: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...toive-decision
Would you have a part number for this? Or advice for a breakdown. My Bentley Manual is coming today, but I'd love a pointer on how you guys quickly locate a part number for a random little detail like this. And thanks, So many responses to just a few pics, I'm tempted to just take pictures everywhere and see all the amazing things you guys find.
So I'm still working way to much to tear into this car like I would prefer. Several projects in the shop need to get wrapped up and put away before the 540 can come in. But you guys have been so great with advice, I thought I would let anyone pick apart my initial plan. After reading the forums, I think my goals are:
1) Put the car in a condition where I probably wont actively hurt it or myself by driving it
2) Drive, enjoy, see whats really wrong
3) Start ticking off the big fixes based on time, budget, need, and the wife's attitude
So for step 1:
1) Get the car on the lift, look at ball joints and bushings. Address anything actively broken, but full refresh is hopefully down the road
2) Brakes passed inspection, and feel fine, but I might as well have a look
3) Change oil and pull the oil pan while empty. Hopefully there is nothing but oil in there.
4) Change oil filter
5) Change plugs
6) Flush and fill coolant
7) Change air filter
8) Clean ICV
9) Check battery and alternator voltage
10) Check codes
11) Clean Engine bay to begin leak-chasing.
Code reader comes today. On the dash, I've got warnings for low coolant, low washer fluid, check fog lamps, check side lamps. I think the only one that concerns me is the low coolant. Things I know I haven't thought about yet, but I haven't heard of as a problem area include transmission service, diff service,
Go to REALOEM.com. An amazing site that will give you almost everything you need. A little bit of a pain to log in every time, but you will figure it out. Also, I think another play on this is to either get a pressure washer or go to a car wash, spray the thing up and down with simple green or equivalent and wash the sh$% out of it to get rid of all the grime, etc. This will give you a clean slate to observe and diagnose from. And, as you read and educate yourself, you will see the PS hoses are infamous for leaking and needing replacement. I hope you have a good set of tools. These cars are great to learn and diagnose. And quite an accomplishment once you start to make progress. Other than the DME/controllers, they are fairly easy to work on. And there is a wealth of knowledge here and other places. Just try to be concise and clear with your questions, pictures always help, and follow due diligence on taking advice. Many come here, ask for advice from those in the know, than argue with the "free" tutorials and butt heads with those whom they just asked for help!! I am picking my words carefully, but if you are here long enough, you will see what I mean.
- - - Updated - - -
540 does not have ICV. So cross that one off.
"You have no ICV"
Cool, one thing off the list. The car is fixing itself while I sit at work. Now I just need someone the tell me that VANOS is just something the forum made up to keep car prices low. Thanks guys.
That is the power steering pump, but the black on the ground suggests oil. My guess is a valve cover leak. Probably where it meets the upper timing cover.
I also purchased a Bentley manual, but I don't think i've used it more than once or twice for torque specs. The forums have pretty much have everything covered.
People always suggest realoem, but I prefer the etk. It's the same info, but etk is prettier. -However, I think on realoem, it's easier to cross reference part numbers.
Here's a direct link to the e39 540i section:
https://www.etkbmw.com/bmw/EN/search...odel+47588/USA
For that part number, here's a direct link. Items 14 & 15
https://www.etkbmw.com/bmw/EN/search...0i/USA/11_2285
2003 540i/6
Looks like a nice car
1994 e36 325i convertible, 5 spd samoablau metallic-just acquired
1994 e34 525i schwarz II auto
1985 Nissan 300zx 5spd
1991 e34 535i calypsorot metallic 5spd-SOLD
Quick question. What is the electric motor sitting just behind the passenger side fog lamp? It comes on when the car is started cold. Doesn't sound great to me, but of course I don't know what it does. Google is not helping me much because I don't even know what system I am talking about. Until I can get the car up on a lift, it is tough to see what it is even connected to. Thanks!
Last edited by douglawrence42; 03-27-2017 at 07:58 AM.
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