Ceramic coating, this is new news to me. I'm unsure how this process work? Does this delete the process of adding on sealant and wax?
Example: I usually will do a 2 step polish and finish with sealant then wax to top it off. From what I read (correct me if I'm wrong) I can do my polish to paint correct and just throw on this ceramic coat? 2-3 coats for long lasting results?
I've been looking at the Sonax CC36.
This ceramic coating supposedly last for about a year? o.O"
Please help and I'm a newbie to detailing.
Current cars:
87' Zinnorot 325is
91' Alpine white 318is
92' E30 Alpine white Mtechnic
97' E36 Alpine white M3/2/5
It's like the last defend for the paint. Sealant and wax are still recommended on top of ceramic coating as more defensive layer.
2000 Dinan S1 //M5 (my DD) --------------- 06 DINAN E53 4.8iS (wife's) -------------- 90 Straman Z32TT (my pride & joy)
Gone, but not forgotten: 01 E39 M5, 01 E53 3.0i, 01 525i Sport, 03 DINAN 540i MSport and 91 Z32 TwinTurbo
I did the wolfgang uber ceramic coating on my car
prep work is key...
applying the coating is easy (thats y i chose the wolfgang)
its a semi-permanent coat of wax, you can maintain it by maintenance washes and a proper quick detailer.
i had a bunch of bugs on my front end after a 300m round trip to Paso Robles with my wife, drove it thru a rainstorm a week later all the bugs are gone.
rather than wax / sealant i'd use a good QD
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my full writeup from f10 post
http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1313660
2003 540i M-Sport - Sterling Grey/Black LeatherGPS | PP | Rear Shades | Intravee II | Valentine 1 | 35w ProLumen HID Fog Lights w/3000k bulbs | 35% Formula One Pinnacle Series Ceramic Tint | Eisenmann Race Exhaust 2 x 83mm | Eibach Rear Sway Bar | Weichers Front Strut Tower Brace | Racing Dynamics CAI | Stealthone | Sound by Focal/JL Audio/Arc Audio
DPE Wheels for Sale....
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...5#post26952145
The car was stored in the garage, so i just used some cold water in a spray bottle with a microfiber to take off any dust.
yes QD - quick detailer. I just got a bottle of the kenotek show room shine, i only tried it on a small part of the trunk and the result was good, looking forward to using it on the rest of the car soon.
one thing after u apply any coating is to use a soap that doesn't have wax on it, like the meguiars car wash with wax....the meg's hyperwash is good as is the cquartz car pro reset and the chemical guys stuff (just read what each soap is for on their website)
and proper wash technique is obvious with the 2 bucket method (foam cannon and power washer optional)
I also dry the car with a leaf blower, to get the excess water off....helps get the water from all the crevices etc...
key is to get the paint as perfect as possible before applying the coating, as the coating will give you a deep wet shine....
local detailer charges 800 to apply cs-II with a 3 yr warranty i beleive, which includes the paint correction and the coating
most other places charge 800-1000 for coating + 300-500 for paint correction (depending on how bad)
I applied the coating to everything except the wheels (glass/trim/lights etc) the wheels will get done when i get time here soon
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first wash after applying the coating in october (washed in feb)
after a long wet winter in norcal!
http://f10.5post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1359087
2003 540i M-Sport - Sterling Grey/Black LeatherGPS | PP | Rear Shades | Intravee II | Valentine 1 | 35w ProLumen HID Fog Lights w/3000k bulbs | 35% Formula One Pinnacle Series Ceramic Tint | Eisenmann Race Exhaust 2 x 83mm | Eibach Rear Sway Bar | Weichers Front Strut Tower Brace | Racing Dynamics CAI | Stealthone | Sound by Focal/JL Audio/Arc Audio
DPE Wheels for Sale....
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...5#post26952145
No need for anything on top of the coating. The coating is the "protection". Wax/sealant as a "protectant for the protectant"? A quick detailer like Reload will greatly enhance the coating's performance, and is all that is needed, apply after a wash wwhen you feel the paint is not as slick anymore. Then again, Reload by itself is pretty marvelous.
Note that the long term durability and hardness of the coating makes it require the same care as your clear coat. It needs deep cleaning, clay baring, iron-x/tar-x routinely. Once it shows swirls or rids then it is time to re-polish and re-apply. Generally, one year is a good time period to touch it up and reapply as needed. Most of the higher end coating brands will require a yearly checkup/touch up to maintain warranty (which all warranties are a scam).
Here is a link to a video I took showing a friend that a coated wheel still requires soap and brushing to clean properly:
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