E38 Transmission dipstick mod

[cazal740i]

E38 bimmerfiliacs I need your help on this 1. Ive had this for a year and half finally want to install it. I want to know before I open up the fill hole and lose fluid will the parts I have are sufficient. I tried emailing the inventor of the dipstick and i have the instructions but not the parts list. Anyone else here install this??

1 bottle of ZF trans fluid
Transmission diptstick kit

Dipstick


All the fittings i have

Connected together

Here is my concern. The metal pipe is metal to metal with the fittings. I can totally see fluid coming out of the top. No???


Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

[cazal740i]

When the dipstick is inside the tube the end rests at the curve of the pipe. So lets me believe the HOT fluid will be sitting inside the tube to the Dipstick readings. Shouldn't the pipe connection at the base fittings be sealed tight??

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

[BobieM]

I generally get concerned anytime the inventor of something doesn't reply with necessary details. I've never installed such a thing, but it sounds reasonable if he has the level on the stick calibrated to the trans and doesn't have it sticking out into the moving parts. If, during a dry run, the stick doesn't extend past the tube, you're certainly going to need to have fluid in the tube for a reading. For me, the question is when the car is at rest, how does the fluid rest in relation to the fill hole? For example, on my old 308, the gear oil sits right at the level of the bottom of the hole. If a stick were added that was flush with its tube, I'd get nothing. Just thoughts out loud


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[cazal740i]

here are the INSTALLED pics from the instructions

[racer2086]

I have this installed. The parts you show are correct. The metal sleeve is a compression fitting that will seal the pipe and threads from leaking. Fluid does sit in the tube. The cable "dipstick" is calibrated to show the correct level when the car is on level surface running. It is best to check this a couple times to compare and average the readings so you don't overfill.

Mock up the dipstick before you open the fill hole. You need to get that metal plate put around the top end of the dipstick and it bolts to the back of the block on the passenger side near where the wire harness drops back behind the engine to go to the trans. It is hard to get that plate lined up if you get the dipstick bolted into the trans first, since the pipe is stiff and there is no give. You kinda have to go back and forth a little to get everything line up passively before tightening down.

Just have a clean pan to catch the fluid that comes out (you won't be doing this with engine running), and then you can dump it right back in once the dipstick is on. No biggie.

- - - Updated - - -

Wow well you beat me to it. Is that fluid in your photos a leak or residual fluid? The nut part that is around the tube part is the one that as you tighten down, presses the compression fitting in tighter to seal things up.

[cazal740i]

Here is the LINK to the website for the E38 Transmission Dipstick
http://www.meurosport.com/5HP24_Dip_Stick.php

[racer2086]

Also, make sure you don't leave the copper ring on the transmission when the plug is removed, since you have a crush washer with the dipstick parts.

[cazal740i]

I have this installed. The parts you show are correct. The metal sleeve is a compression fitting that will seal the pipe and threads from leaking. Fluid does sit in the tube. The cable "dipstick" is calibrated to show the correct level when the car is on level surface running. It is best to check this a couple times to compare and average the readings so you don't overfill.

Mock up the dipstick before you open the fill hole. You need to get that metal plate put around the top end of the dipstick and it bolts to the back of the block on the passenger side near where the wire harness drops back behind the engine to go to the trans. It is hard to get that plate lined up if you get the dipstick bolted into the trans first, since the pipe is stiff and there is no give. You kinda have to go back and forth a little to get everything line up passively before tightening down.

Just have a clean pan to catch the fluid that comes out (you won't be doing this with engine running), and then you can dump it right back in once the dipstick is on. No biggie.

- - - Updated - - -

Wow well you beat me to it. Is that fluid in your photos a leak or residual fluid? The nut part that is around the tube part is the one that as you tighten down, presses the compression fitting in tighter to seal things up.

oh wow...Glad someone has done it....No those are not my pics but from the instruction guide...So the pieces I have are designed for it NOT to spill...Nice
So I have to tighten everything up once the pipe is inside the banjo fittings?

- - - Updated - - -

Also, make sure you don't leave the copper ring on the transmission when the plug is removed, since you have a crush washer with the dipstick parts.

great tip! thnx.. Experience any leakage?

[Sabreslight]

this is good, i just ordered mine. Hope everything goes well

[mooll]

there's a forum member here, gonna be making these in the spring. that's the plan , at least.

- - - Updated - - -

also OP can u tell me what those bolts u used on the trans are / what size?
thx

[cazal740i]

[QUOTE=mooll;29637073]there's a forum member here, gonna be making these in the spring. that's the plan , at least.

- - - Updated - - -

also OP can u tell me what those bolts u used on the trans are / what size?





m6 x 22

[mooll]

thanks but no i mean what bolts are those holding ur trans pan on ?

[lewvirg]

Here is the LINK to the website for the E38 Transmission Dipstick
http://www.meurosport.com/5HP24_Dip_Stick.php

Fabian,

I 've had the dipstick mod for a little over two years - no leaks. Like racer said - the fitting is a compression fitting. The full level is at the 2nd lowest mark is what I was told.

[cazal740i]

Fabian,

I 've had the dipstick mod for a little over two years - no leaks. Like racer said - the fitting is a compression fitting. The full level is at the 2nd lowest mark is what I was told.

Compress fitting. Does that mean its a 1 time only seal? Like if i screw up tightening it and loosen up the compress fitting is ruined? Or can rhis be loosen and retighten over and over again?


Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

[thrawn5499]

This looks like a nice mod. Any other benefits to it besides checking fluid? I am guessing you can add some this way too. Possible help in flushing? I have seen some guides that hook up to the lines. Filling might be a good option. Just put a large volume of fluid above and it should make filling it quicker and easier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[cazal740i]

thanks but no i mean what bolts are those holding ur trans pan on ?

Lol sorry
Thought u meant the banjo fittings sizes. That picture of the pan bolts are not mine. I borrowed from instructions page. Now that its easy to replace the torx head bolts to hex head. All u need is 1 transmission bolt to take to hardwarw store and match the length and bolt size. Also look at the grade of the bolt. Appears to be an 8.5 stamped on 1 of those

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

[cazal740i]

M6 x22

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

[mooll]

M6 x22

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

cool,thx

[740iSport303]

The manufacturer of the dipstick IS a member here and on bimmerboard. His name is Thomas Meacham on Bimmerboard, but I cannot remember his handle here.

[mooll]

The manufacturer of the dipstick IS a member here and on bimmerboard. His name is Thomas Meacham on Bimmerboard, but I cannot remember his handle here.

cool,im saying there's a member on here who's most likely going to be custom making them as well at some point soon.

[TxDarth]

cool,im saying there's a member on here who's most likely going to be custom making them as well at some point soon.

Thomas has been making these for the last 3 or 4 years - how many sources for these do you need especially on disappearing market.

He is the same guy that made the metal throttle bushing kit for the prefacelift cars to replace the failing plastic ones

[tomloans]

I have this installed. The parts you show are correct. The metal sleeve is a compression fitting that will seal the pipe and threads from leaking. Fluid does sit in the tube. The cable "dipstick" is calibrated to show the correct level when the car is on level surface running. It is best to check this a couple times to compare and average the readings so you don't overfill.

Mock up the dipstick before you open the fill hole. You need to get that metal plate put around the top end of the dipstick and it bolts to the back of the block on the passenger side near where the wire harness drops back behind the engine to go to the trans. It is hard to get that plate lined up if you get the dipstick bolted into the trans first, since the pipe is stiff and there is no give. You kinda have to go back and forth a little to get everything line up passively before tightening down.

Just have a clean pan to catch the fluid that comes out (you won't be doing this with engine running), and then you can dump it right back in once the dipstick is on. No biggie.

- - - Updated - - -

Wow well you beat me to it. Is that fluid in your photos a leak or residual fluid? The nut part that is around the tube part is the one that as you tighten down, presses the compression fitting in tighter to seal things up.

Does this dip stick block access to any parts of the engine if it needs repair?

[racer2086]

oh wow...Glad someone has done it....No those are not my pics but from the instruction guide...So the pieces I have are designed for it NOT to spill...Nice
So I have to tighten everything up once the pipe is inside the banjo fittings?

- - - Updated - - -


great tip! thnx.. Experience any leakage?

So the steps should be:
Take out the plug and catch the fluid that comes out.
Take the larger fitting from the kit with the copper crush ring, and install it in the transmission with the allen key wrench decently tight to have the copper crush ring seal against the trans.
Slip nut on the tube and then slip the sleeve on the tube. Set them into place as you wiggle the tube up into place in the engine bay.
Slide the supporting bracket onto the tube and position it in place where the bolt is at the back of the intake. Thread the bolt back into place through the bracket.
Once everything is lined up and doesn't feel like you're putting pressure on parts tightening them in, you can use a wrench to tighten the nut down into the trans fitting. It will compress that sleeve against the tube and the metal trans fitting.
Then tighten the bracket up top.
Immensely enjoy dumping your fluid back into the transmission through the dipstick

I don't think it has leaked. I do have a slow transmission fluid leak that when I briefly looked appeared to be the shaft selector seals that were leaking. I should get under and look more closely (it could be leaking, but I doubt it unless something loosened), but with a dipstick, it's easy to add fluid! (Haven't needed to yet)

Does this dip stick block access to any parts of the engine if it needs repair?

Not that I can recall. It's a pretty skinny tube and just goes down the back of the engine. I can't remember how close it gets to the coolant accumulator pipe back there, because I generally remove the water pump when doing the valley pan or the coolant pipe o-rings.

[tomloans]

Not that I can recall. It's a pretty skinny tube and just goes down the back of the engine. I can't remember how close it gets to the coolant accumulator pipe back there, because I generally remove the water pump when doing the valley pan or the coolant pipe o-rings.[/QUOTE]


Thank you ... have you sold your car?

[cazal740i]

1 step is You have to grind the transmission corner off with a dremel.
Wait! The tip was to remove the crush washer after removing the oem plug, now reuse it?

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk