Ok so I have my m20 swap up and going but I can not keep it cool to save my life!!! Started with a crappy perm cool fan and I had temp creep. I got a bigger maradyne fan and this thing won't keep it cool either!
I am running a m3 dual core aluminum radiator and I believe a 185f thermostat and a brand new water pump and I have burped the system. both fans are rated for over 2000cfm btw
M20 swapped E21 FTW!!
185 thermostat is too high.... try 180.
The stock E30 325i thermostat is 80C/176F. I have that in my car with the original 323i fan and it runs very cool - 1/4 on the gauge.
My fan runs all the time. Does yours? I tried running without it and got the same behavior you did. It sat at halfway but would creep very quickly until I got moving again.
- Doug
Beverly, MA
http://www.e21323iblog.com
http://www.douging.smugmug.com/Cars/1980-E21-323i
M20 swapped E21 FTW!!
I had the following experience , hot cooling temp. , so I remove the thermostat , which is inside a metal/aluminum sleeve and it was very clogged and dirty , so I cleaned and make sure it was in the correct position , checked that was opening with hot water in a bucket and later closing when cool , and problem solved . Hope it helps .
You also have to set the heater valve on full hot when bleeding the coolant system.
Tbd
I assume you are still running an expansion tank as well, right?
If you are running lean, that could cause it to be hot.
Yes I am
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I don't think that's it if anything it smells really rich
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I'm gunna try bleeding again today when I get off work. I'll report back. Also my fan is mounted about 1/2 an inch off the core is that to much??
Ok update time! bled the system like crazy!!!! I got a ton of air out. its not toping out the temp gauge any more but it does hang out between the half way and 3/4 mark mostly on the high end is this ok/normal for an m20 swap?
Im going to use a thermometer tomorrow and check the radiator temps see if I can get a clue as to if its holding at operating temps or higher.
My m10 would sit at the half way and go slightly over when driving hard in hot weather.
Last edited by HeathMO; 03-16-2017 at 10:19 PM.
M20 swapped E21 FTW!!
You should idle it with the radiator cap off, fan on, constantly topping off, until no more bubbles come up and it's warmed up. Rev the engine occasionally, too.
Yup exactly what I did but it still sits between the middle and 3/4 mark
That seems too high. My 323 (m20) needle stays right dead center (or less).
Perhaps there is corrosion in the temp sensor wires? Or maybe a different spec for 4-cyl temp gauge vs 6-cyl? (doubtful).
If there's extra resistance in the temp sensor wires, would that make it read higher, or lower?
I had either a slightly warped head or leaky head gasket that made my e21 run hot. If all else fails, might think about that.
If there was resistance in the wire it would make it read higher. Im gunna try moving my fan a little closer to the radiator see if driving it and having more air flow makes a difference also going to try a little more bleeding and I know Ive got the twitchy gauge symptom so if it comes to it I might try and pull the cluster and fix that
M20 swapped E21 FTW!!
Rent a coolant system pressure tester. That will tell you if you have any cracks or head gasket issues. Also, how is your oil pressure?
well I guess it would depend on the gauge and sensors. there are 2 types of thermistors
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OK update so I had a hose crack so I had to rebelled and all that good stuff but I drove it around and it is staying pretty much right at the middle mark just creeps over it every once in a while but even driving hard it stayed cool so I'll see how it goes maybe I'll add a small aux fan to the system but for now at least I can drive it to work again!
M20 swapped E21 FTW!!
Awesome! Good for you.
- Doug
Beverly, MA
http://www.e21323iblog.com
http://www.douging.smugmug.com/Cars/1980-E21-323i
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