New muffler hangers came in and I realized that I was missing a bolt up front.
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Got that installed and it after taking off my exhaust I realized I will need to get some work done sooner than I thought.
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Pic on the right is rust from inside. It also fell off once while driving so I have to connect it to the front with flex pipes. Currently weighing in my options. For now I’ll drive it without it on until I get it welded or fit straight pipes from the front.
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Took my cluster out for a clean. This has been bugging me since I got the car a few years ago.
Going to use the time to install the new bulbs I ordered and fix my intermittent temperature gauge. I lost the odometer gears I ordered so I’ll just change them the next time when I’m changing my steering wheel.
Also thinking about spraying inside. Anyone have any recommendations on what paint to use?
Last edited by hakeem43020; 11-28-2017 at 11:28 PM.
I recall that the inside is flocked, so you don't necessarily want to use paint. If you do go with any paint, make sure it is matte finish.
There are kits out there to re-flock and results are really good. Price is $30 - $60 depending on the kit.
Jose
1987 M6
Livin the dream!
Fixed the issue. I’m guessing it was caused by a bad ground.
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Heres a pic before VS after.
This is the first time in the 5 years I’ve owned this car that it has ever shown full. The OBC still reads the same though.
Thanks. I decided to just clean it and leave it as is.
UPDATE:
I cleaned all grounds, washers and bolts. Seems like that fixed my gas gauge and hopefully my temperature gauge. Inside is now a lot cleaner. Gives it a nice clean retro look.
does anyone know the part number for the light bar at that has the PRND on it? Fixed all bulbs except the “1” and Can’t find it on real oem.
Last edited by hakeem43020; 11-29-2017 at 08:45 PM.
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Does anyone know what the yellow connector beside the blue is for? I don’t think I see/have that connector in my car.
Even though they list 18 inch blades as standard for our cars, I got some 19 (passenger) and 20 (driver side) inch wiper blades and they do fit.
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Looks like there’s still space on the passenger for a larger one.
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Took a look under my car. Rear trailing arm bushings are pretty much non-existent and cv joints are ripped. Ordered pitman arm bushing for the front. The car shakes violently when breaking so UPAB are needed too. Don’t feel like pressing out/in new bearings so I’m just gonna buy the Meyle Upper control arms rather than just the bushings. After that I’ll tackle the cv boots, subframe bushing, trailing arm bushing, diff mount, transmission mount etc. Then fix the ac, flush the engine, put in Bmw coolant, get big brakes, upgrade the headlights, tail lights, change the interior etc. a lot of work on the way . I’m should be capable of doing all those except the subframe, trailing arm etc due to the difficulty and imagine a shop would charge an arm and a leg.
Replaced my upper control arms.
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I doubt theyd ever been changed. Car feels a lot firmer.
Few changes.
I had to jump my car a few times and I tracked the problem to my alternator. I Tested my it and it read 12.9 volts charging so it had to go. I had an aftermarket alternator with a non-replaceable voltage regulator so I had to replace the whole alternator. I decided to install the 140A e32 alternator rather than the stock one. I did happen to have a 14V voltage regulator on hand that I ordered a while back and made sure to throw it in before installing in the car. Tested after installed and I now have 14.4V while idling . The difference is quite obvious. My car is less "jumpy" and doesn't feel as laggy as it use to.
Went to full my tank after and found I have leaking fuel vapor hoses. I'll be replacing all the hoses and decided to order them all. If anyone is wondering it's
6x11 - fuel vapor hoses (one that connects to the nipples on the tank) and 8x12 & 12x18 for the rest. I daily my car and had terrible mpg so this was probably the cause.
Summer is coming so I decided to get back to fixing my AC before it gets too hot. I Managed to source an AC regulator from a parted car (hopefully it's still functional) and will be throwing it in since mine had a leaking diaphragm. I also need to mount my expansion valve correctly and all should be good (keeping my fingers crossed).
I'm looking forward to these since I've been putting it off for as long as I can remember
I've followed your AC build for a long time and it helped me in redoing my whole system ('89 dual AC). I should be finished up and working on both front and rear ACs by next week, let me know if you have questions for me.
I've replaced all the suspension parts, including shocks, you'll notice a totally different ride. I replaced my differential mount in my 89 635 Csi A, however, no photos of the before. I'm not sure I installed the new one correctly. The mount is very close to the sway bar but does not touch it. I believe I used the same foot print, however, these's an overhang (see photo) which I don't recall. If you would take photos of your diff before and after I would greatly appreciate it. Roger
Hello Roger,
Sorry for the late response. I attached pics of my diff mount below. Mine is the OEM one since I haven’t gotten around to a suspension rebuild as yet.
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