Hey guys,
I am going to run some dedicated pads for the track this year and I was wondering if it's necessary to have a dedicated set of rotors to swap in along with the pads at the track. I am going to run Hawk DTC60s fwiw.
Also, I noticed that rockauto has centric blanks for the E36 for a good price. Has anyone used these before? Are they acceptable or should I spend the money on their premium, coated option?
Cheers
^ Agreed, the centrics from rockauto are the way to go. (I do 'upgrade' to the higher carbon content. I've been meaning to try one 'regular' and one 'high carbon', but keep forgetting).
I run my PFC08s spring to fall (including to/from track), so no comment on question of dedicated rotors. You'll get mixed responses on that topic. That said, you can't go wrong with dedicated, but I found it too much of a PIA (when I was switching between street and track pads).
Blank Centrics and keep them with the same set of pads.. PF08's here also. I change out my rotors every other time I change out my pads. Has worked fine for me. I have stripped out E36 328is.. pretty light so my pads last long time.
Lime Rock Park... the most fun you can have in a mile and a half.
I change rotors every year (6 weekends) and keep last years set as a backup in case the cracking gets too severe to last through the weekend.
I need to get front ducting next....
I ordered a set of centric blanks. Thanks everyone! I am hoping to add ducting this year too but right now the car is still disassembled in my garage for a full suspension rebuild and the season has started already . I need to get it off the jack stands before I do anything else.
^ That's a good strategy. I usually carry a set of new rotors to the track, especially if the ones on the car are past mid-life. I did 25 days of HPDE last year, but about 1/2 of those are easier than usual on the brakes, cause instructor. Of all things, threshold breaking seems to freak the students out the most (when giving them a ride). Gotta work up to that.
Wow 25 days! That is awesome. What organizations are you running with? The BMW CCA offerings here are very well run and organized but pricey.
BSR/FATT (Summit Point), SCCA, and Trackdaze are the ones I spend the most time with, but have also instructed for Chen and it seems like someone else but can't recall right now. All mostly at the 3 tracks at Summit and also at Dominion Raceway, but also at NJMP, with (unfortunately) rare trip to VIR. Trying to get to VIR and Glenn this year, and add Audi Club and Hooked on Driving as orgs to instruct for. I'd like to instruct for BMW CCA, but everytime I look into it, it's hard to justify the $$$'s to get instructor status with BMW when I have so many other really good options.
Last edited by aeronaut; 03-16-2017 at 02:13 PM.
I use stock blanks and keep 2 sets for the fronts. After 2 track events I get them resurfaced and swap them out. Otherwise hard braking off a long straight causes shimmy in the front. I found that the local place that turns them to clean only takes about .005" or less per side... so even after multiple turnings the blanks are still well within spec. Beats having to buy new ones each time
You turn rotors, and after a set number of events? First I've hear of that. How much does that cost, and what pads are you using?
I've had 1 or 2 rotors cause shimmy, most likely due to my poor bedding procedure (aka none) and/or I used to switch between street & track pads. Otherwise a few hundred street miles between events and run rotors till they crack, and no shimmy issues.
Cost to turn is around $20.- per blank. I measure them before and after and as I mentioned they take almost nothing off keeping the thickness well above the minimum. The rotor feels like a brand new one . I use cool carbon pads street/ track combo as it is also my DD. Don't know what causes the shimmy but with street use alone this does not show up as fast.
2 track events and I start feeling a little shimmy in the front, hence my resurfacing schedule
btw brand new rotors start shimmying just as quickly on my car. My brake ducts are in working order too.
Do you recommend a different pad?
I hate any hint of shimmy also, so the good news is you have a process that works. That said, yea, the first thing I'd try is a different set of pads. It's not as much of a statement against Cool Carbon pads, as much as how you're using them (overheating them or underheating them or if they're picky on bedding...any of these can cause issues). Lots of folks use PFC 08s (my choice) for cars that are mostly track cars, and many are happy with Hawk pads (pick the one that matches your use).
Yeh, its your pads. Shimmies almost always mean your pads shat all over the rotors for some reason. Bad bedding, pad compound mixing, pad overheating, etc.
Hawks seem tolerant of mixing. I ran both Hawk HT-10s and DTC60s with Stoptech Street Performance pads on the same rotors awhile back with no issues. In fact, i can't remember ever having deposit/shimmy issues with the Hawks. Carbotech pads were the worst in this regard.
overheating? well I don't know of any other way to brake from a 135 mph straight into a 35mph corner (Pocono double infield course) other than slamming them down full pressure .
I will try different pads, thanks for the advice!
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Good to know, thanks!
maybe I can just use sandpaper to get rid of the buildup? I think I saw a post about that a while ago
Do yourself a favor and go to dedicated track pads and dedicated rotors. Rotors are only 25 bucks a piece, and you will NEVER have the vibration issues again...... ANY track pad will be a step up in consistency and will handle the heat much better than cool carbons. HT10S or PFC08s work well!
I've seen rear blanks on sale from Rockauto for $11 !!!!
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