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Thread: Pics of the new lift.

  1. #26
    Join Date
    May 2016
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    Eureka Springs, AR
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    205
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    2000 BMW Z3 Roadster 2.5
    Also to add....speaking of rebar.....I drilled the 12 3/4" holes in the concrete and lucked out on all of them except one. I had a piece of rebar running right thru the middle of the hole. I had to go buy a 3/4 metal drill bit to drill the rebar. Once I got the rebar drilled (lots of time and energy) I placed the anchor bolt in the hole. But...while drilling out the rebar, it wallowed out the hole a little....just enough that the anchor would not catch, I could pull it out with my hand. Sooooo.....another trip to the neighboring town to buy a 7/8" anchor bolt. Got it hammered in and tightened up and all is well .
    2000 Atlanta Blue Z3 2.5L 5 speed manual with factory hartop.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    SW Florida
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    12,682
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    99-01 M Cpe & Rdts, X5M
    Quote Originally Posted by aba4430 View Post
    Very nice set up. How deep does the concrete floor need to be (poured) for such lifts? Does the concrete need special reinforcements?
    As stated, 4" is most manufacturer's minimum requirement (which leads you to believe there's probably a safety margin built into that). Where we're currently living__and NO PLANS to change that__I had the builder pour the slab in the immediate area of the lifts (an 11' wide x 3' long patch) a full 6" deep. But I still had one (1) anchor__out of 10 per lift__pull out, requiring it to be epoxied in the hole.

    Overall, if you can swing it, based on both space (footprint and available height) and economics, the lift will become your most useful tool in the garage. It's an exceptional benefit to us aging enthusiasts too (nothing like waxing the rockers while standing straight up).

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Temecula Ca.
    Posts
    4,491
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    99 M Coupe LS Swap
    Quote Originally Posted by ArkansasTed View Post
    Also to add....speaking of rebar.....I drilled the 12 3/4" holes in the concrete and lucked out on all of them except one. I had a piece of rebar running right thru the middle of the hole. I had to go buy a 3/4 metal drill bit to drill the rebar. Once I got the rebar drilled (lots of time and energy) I placed the anchor bolt in the hole. But...while drilling out the rebar, it wallowed out the hole a little....just enough that the anchor would not catch, I could pull it out with my hand. Sooooo.....another trip to the neighboring town to buy a 7/8" anchor bolt. Got it hammered in and tightened up and all is well .
    That is exactly why I paid BendPac 500 bucks to install. Between the weight, short on time, and fear than damn thing would fall on me, the 500 seemed reasonable. Man less than an hour to do a full nut and bolt check for this weekend.
    Dan "PbFut" Rose

  4. #29
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Dxb
    Posts
    882
    My Cars
    2007 Z4///MC
    Wow, you are sooo lucky.. I'd love to have a lift in my garage, heck, I'd love to have a bloody roof on my garage, but what the hey!
    Congrats, thats just AWESOME!!!

  5. #30
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Eureka Springs, AR
    Posts
    205
    My Cars
    2000 BMW Z3 Roadster 2.5
    Quote Originally Posted by vanne View Post
    Wow, you are sooo lucky.. I'd love to have a lift in my garage, heck, I'd love to have a bloody roof on my garage, but what the hey!
    Congrats, thats just AWESOME!!!
    Thanks vanne. I did a lot of the work myself building my garage...though I did have a couple of younger guys who helped me. Just got it finished a month or so ago. The lift is gonna really come in handy...even for little things such as rotating tires.
    2000 Atlanta Blue Z3 2.5L 5 speed manual with factory hartop.

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    3,323
    My Cars
    Z3M, X5M
    Quote Originally Posted by ArkansasTed View Post
    Also to add....speaking of rebar.....I drilled the 12 3/4" holes in the concrete and lucked out on all of them except one. I had a piece of rebar running right thru the middle of the hole. I had to go buy a 3/4 metal drill bit to drill the rebar. Once I got the rebar drilled (lots of time and energy) I placed the anchor bolt in the hole. But...while drilling out the rebar, it wallowed out the hole a little....just enough that the anchor would not catch, I could pull it out with my hand. Sooooo.....another trip to the neighboring town to buy a 7/8" anchor bolt. Got it hammered in and tightened up and all is well .
    I couldn't afford hitting any metal while drilling. My foundation has post-tension cables and was told there could be major damaged if drilled through. So I ended up getting a concrete scanner to be sure.
    -Phil

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Galt,CA
    Posts
    1,077
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    2002 M Coupe
    Quote Originally Posted by Z-Thrizzle View Post
    I couldn't afford hitting any metal while drilling. My foundation has post-tension cables and was told there could be major damaged if drilled through. So I ended up getting a concrete scanner to be sure.
    My old condo was built on a post-tensioned slab, tensioned at 20 tons of force. A couple of times clueless folks decided to fix a water leak under the slab themselves; the results when their jackhammer hit the cable were spectacular. In one case the cable came straight up and left a 20 foot long furrow in the slab. Avoid if at all possible!

    Marty

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    3,323
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    Z3M, X5M
    Quote Originally Posted by MartyBtoo View Post
    My old condo was built on a post-tensioned slab, tensioned at 20 tons of force. A couple of times clueless folks decided to fix a water leak under the slab themselves; the results when their jackhammer hit the cable were spectacular. In one case the cable came straight up and left a 20 foot long furrow in the slab. Avoid if at all possible! Marty
    Holy cow!!!
    Yeah I scanned and rescanned so many times.
    -Phil

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