Also to add....speaking of rebar.....I drilled the 12 3/4" holes in the concrete and lucked out on all of them except one. I had a piece of rebar running right thru the middle of the hole. I had to go buy a 3/4 metal drill bit to drill the rebar. Once I got the rebar drilled (lots of time and energy) I placed the anchor bolt in the hole. But...while drilling out the rebar, it wallowed out the hole a little....just enough that the anchor would not catch, I could pull it out with my hand. Sooooo.....another trip to the neighboring town to buy a 7/8" anchor bolt. Got it hammered in and tightened up and all is well .
2000 Atlanta Blue Z3 2.5L 5 speed manual with factory hartop.
As stated, 4" is most manufacturer's minimum requirement (which leads you to believe there's probably a safety margin built into that). Where we're currently living__and NO PLANS to change that__I had the builder pour the slab in the immediate area of the lifts (an 11' wide x 3' long patch) a full 6" deep. But I still had one (1) anchor__out of 10 per lift__pull out, requiring it to be epoxied in the hole.
Overall, if you can swing it, based on both space (footprint and available height) and economics, the lift will become your most useful tool in the garage. It's an exceptional benefit to us aging enthusiasts too (nothing like waxing the rockers while standing straight up).
Wow, you are sooo lucky.. I'd love to have a lift in my garage, heck, I'd love to have a bloody roof on my garage, but what the hey!
Congrats, thats just AWESOME!!!
2000 Atlanta Blue Z3 2.5L 5 speed manual with factory hartop.
My old condo was built on a post-tensioned slab, tensioned at 20 tons of force. A couple of times clueless folks decided to fix a water leak under the slab themselves; the results when their jackhammer hit the cable were spectacular. In one case the cable came straight up and left a 20 foot long furrow in the slab. Avoid if at all possible!
Marty
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