What hp/torque are ppl breaking axles at?
Is this a strip only failure? Or street as well ?
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Are you breaking axles or diff output stubs? If it’s the axle, where are you breaking it — shaft or inner or outer CV?
Not sure if I'll be snapping axles anytime soon
And I had no idea that the 328iC rear brakes were a bit larger than the 328i ones... I just ordered 328i brakes from a member here - shouldn't have assumed. Hope they still bolt up
500 seems steep for rear, said all bushings have been replaced though
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Finally no more rear rubbing with these flares... and plenty of room for more meat
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Think the weather finally broke here in central va... 70+ degrees
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Solute to bfc
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it is begging for a more meatty tire now!
looks good.
why does it have such big holes between the front quarter panels and the doors?
So you got overfender on overfenders!
car looks like a lot of fun! makes me want to drive mine again.
Check your PM's please
Last edited by 328iFun; 04-05-2019 at 10:13 PM.
Anybody know where I could find decently priced Hotside housing for the PTE 6262?
Looking to move away from the .58 AR to something higher, like .81
Good choice. That will be much better suited for the power band our engines have.
Looking for a Group C CEA 66
https://www.precisionturbo.net/PTE-Product-Catalog.pdf
https://www.treadstoneperformance.co...urbine+Housing
I found some cheap housings on the used section.
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
Thanks euro2
You guys think an oil temp sensor is necessary?
I've been putting some thought into oil viscosity as well. I usually run 15w50 when its warmer, considering the added the heat from the turbo it would probably be better to run a thicker oil right? Maybe even diesel spec?
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
Hey again everyone! I've received quite a bit of feedback from this thread, which is awesome. I didn't realize that it would be as helpful as it has. I often have people reaching out to me for questions, advice, or parts. So I thought I'd throw a little update your way regarding the cars progress/performance.
Performance in my opinion for what is has been 9/10. I can honestly say that I could enjoy 7-12 pounds of boost with the convertible top off, cruising around for a really long time. The smaller .58 exhaust provides plenty of power down low / mid range for street ability but has high back pressure; Car hits 14lbs with a 7 psi spring, w/ electronic boost controller set to 7.
I've run into a ton of 'shortcomings' and they seem to be pretty consistent. From fuel pump connector problems to complete fuel pump failures, 02 issues and just a few snags here and there. But the engine and programming have been insanely stout preventing any major catastrophes from happening.
The best investment I think I made personally and has saved me tons of hours is a fuel pressure sensor and gauge. So I wanted to share this with everyone, a super easy to to connect a sensor to the end of the fuel rail which will provide piece of mind for around $100 or less than depending what sensor / gauge you go with. Doesn't require you crawling under your car, splicing the fuel lines, clamping, etc... I have had zero problems with my setup
1. Remove the schrader valve from the fuel rail, with this or a similar tool
https://www.amazon.com/HanKer-Remove...-2-spons&psc=1
2. 1/8 NPT female to 1/4 NPT Male
https://www.amazon.com/Anodized-Alum...gateway&sr=8-2
3. 1/4 female to 1/4 female coupler
https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Fema...ateway&sr=8-34
* Loctite all threads... Engine vibrations.
4. I went with this gauge
https://www.amazon.com/GlowShift-Tin...gateway&sr=8-3
When tightening the 1/8npt to 1/4npt fitting be very careful, I snapped the end off of my rail and had to go to the bone yard to grab another. Don't over tighten
Fuel rail pic:
31969857_10156415970961255_8595525630102077440_o.jpg
Last edited by 328iFun; 04-20-2019 at 03:29 PM.
I also had to make fender liners for my fender flares. Ran without them for awhile but dirt was being thrown everywhere. I saw that most people cut their rear bumper / side moldings. I chose to not do that and run the liners overtop which is why there's some bulging
I also found that turbo oil feed was leaking pretty badly, hence the nastiness underneath the car.
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Last edited by 328iFun; 04-20-2019 at 03:36 PM.
Quick question: What washer do you use for the oil pan drain fitting so it doesn't leak?
Also, where did you get a stainless steel line for the wastegate reference? I read around that people make their own out of brake lines but couldn't find a DIY.
Last edited by armenh7; 05-02-2019 at 10:06 PM.
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