Limited bandwidth through OBD Protocol. It all depends on what you want to see
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Its a 7" Single Din LCD head-unit that flips downwards so it doesn't block my vent. It has 2 Composite AV Inputs.
Ill use a VGA to composite RCA converter to connect to a motherboard that will be mounted in the glove box. And I'll control it with a wired track-pad
you can get faster logging through SSM protocol. It's what romraider uses.
https://www.ampefi.com/downloads/
http://www.msextra.com/manuals/ms3manuals/
Not trying to talk you out of what you have since its working, I just think its funny when people spend $1500 on dataloggers and failsafes and boost controllers and traction control system and displays and ect, ect, ect... just to do what a single standalone can do.
My intention originally was to get the car up and running as soon as possible, which is why I went with the DME tune. Now that I drove the car and got a bit of 'it' out of my system I'm starting to fine tune things a bit. I bought quality parts just in case I ever wanted to sell them (higher resale value)
I needed a new head unit, mine died. LCD unit cost me $100
I've been doing IT since I was like 15 so the parts for the computer I already had
I purchased the OBD scan tool probably like 8 years ago and the software didn't cost me anything either.
So I'm out $100 bucks for on-board data logging, diagnostics, and remote tuning anytime, etc...
I really need to get the car 'officially' on the road, enjoy it for a bit, and then start looking into standalone and possibly building a bottom end for future endeavors.
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... And maybe sourcing an M3 complete rear to swap in as well
Flares installed today
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SurelY
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Still can't figure out why this car starts missing when its warm at 14.7 afr. If I unplug the O2 the car idles fine but rich ofcourse. I'm sure its not vacuum leak, I've had 4 different manifolds on the car.
I did finish the PC install and played around with it all little bit. Only thing that is odd to me according to the OBDII port Intake, Coolant, RPMS, and TPS will randomly to shoot sky high numbers and then go back to their original readings:
Guess I'll just leave the O2 Disconnected.
Car also has idle hunt after being revved
installed a little analog boost gauge for a second boost reference. Eboost street 2 will flash "OBS" continually when you hit your peak set level so your really don't know what your PSI is when its flashing
Last edited by 328iFun; 02-06-2018 at 06:12 PM.
That’s some hi tech stuff you got there. Impressive
Refresh actually looks semi decent.
Here's a video I made yesterday for someone else to show the comparison between bluetooth obd2 and stock analog revs.
Ran some zeitronix data logging with the on board PC today. Worked flawlessly. Just ordered a MAP sensor and plan to log, boost, AFR, and RPM anytime the car is turned on.
Hey guys, What think AFRS?
This is 1.0 Bar pull
21 - Start
20.075
18.425
16.425
14.25
12.975
12.475
12.325
12.35
12.4
12.425
12.475
12.55
12.675
12.8
12.975
13.175
13.375
13.575
13.75
13.875
13.975
14.075
14.125
14.175
14.175
14.15
14.15
14.15
14.175
14.15
14.1
14.05
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14
14.05
14.075
14.075
14.1
14.05
14.025
13.975
13.875
13.8
13.725
13.7
13.7
13.7
13.7
13.7
13.7
13.675
13.625
13.525
13.4
13.3
13.2
13.15
13.1
13.05
13.05
13.05
13.05
13.05
13
12.925
12.875
12.8
12.725
12.675
12.575
12.475
12.375
12.25
12.15
12.075
12.025
11.975
11.95
11.925
11.9
11.9
11.9
11.9
11.9
11.925
11.95
11.95
11.95
11.925
11.9
11.9
11.9
11.925
11.95
11.975
12
12
12
11.975
11.95
11.925
11.9
11.9
11.9
11.9
11.925
11.95
11.95
11.95
11.925
11.9
11.9
11.9
11.875
11.875
11.85
11.825
11.825
11.775
11.75
11.725
11.7
11.75
11.8
11.875
11.975
12.05
12.15
12.225
12.25
12.2
12.1
11.925
11.725
11.525
11.275
11.05
10.85
10.675
10.575
10.525
10.525
10.55
10.575
10.625
10.675
10.725
10.8
10.85
10.875
10.9
10.875
10.875
10.875
10.9
11
11.125
11.3
11.525
11.775
12.05
12.35
12.625
12.875
13.125
13.35
13.55
13.8
14.125
14.475
15
15.6
16.325
17.175
18.075
19.1
19.925
20.55
20.925
I usually compare it to load % and rpm. It's hard to tell where you are on the pull with just AFR
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97 Turbo 3.2L M3 - Cutring / ARP - RSI Top Mount - Gt4088r - ID1300 - Tial WG - 22RPD Tuned - 93 Octane - 3.5" Stainless
97 Turbo 3.2L M3 - Cutring / ARP - RSI Top Mount - Gt4088r - ID1300 - Tial WG - 22RPD Tuned - 93 Octane - 3.5" Stainless
I keep hearing a lot about RomRaider, I'm going to look into it.
I'll probably just wait until I get logging correctly with zeitronix . Ill work on getting the car buttoned up a bit more this weekend instead...
I definitely spend money and work on the car more than drive it. Ratio is off.
Pretty nice build you have going. Do you have anymore info on the computer/power set-up for it? I have an older NUC that I have considered trying to integrate.
I'm using a AC to DC converter I ordered off Amazon.
Spliced, soldered, and shrink tubed the power cables from the converter directly to cigarette lighter. Converter is hidden in glove box as well as the PC adapter. I was gonna run in car UPS but realized it wasn't needed
I have a female USB cable for quick connect, flash drive, internet connection, etc... that is accessible via console
Go solid state so if you do a hard shutdown the drive isn't damaged. My unit boots up in about 3-4 seconds and is ready to log. And shuts down or sleeps in about 2-3 seconds
You can find cheaper head units with component connections. If you go this route you'll need a VGA/HDMI to component adapter and a head unit that has a resolution of at least 1024X768 or 800X600 at the very least. If you can afford a unit with an HDMI input, go for it. Worth the clarity
Awesome investment. Zeitronix is great (thanks again Butters for the recommendation). Its neat seeing the graphs and log at the same time. I'll have PSI, AFR, RPM, on a 7" display soon.
3 boost gauges total... Eboost street 2 display, analog gauge, and zeitronix data logging.
Plus I have a cool BMW roundel as background... I'll post some pics up soon
Last edited by 328iFun; 02-12-2018 at 06:18 PM.
Thanks for the info. The boot up time and the power side is what i was most curious about. I've read about people using custom UPS/Battery/Capacitor set-ups as they said the computer's would sometimes flicker/do weird things since the signal coming in was not clean.
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