The only time I have to fix the lawn mower is when she rides it,
everytime
Just saw Mylos wastegate pipe. I think I'm going to give it a shot. Might have to dremel some of the sheet metal out though
I love it!
Slightly different view, but hey, it’s all good
Guys,
I've read too many great things about E85...
I have a station about 45 minutes away and I'm thinking about possibly buying a tank and keeping some at the house as well.
Need some advice? I'm pretty sure its not recommended to run e85 on 60lb injectors and a 255. Should just go ahead and go E85 or keep it 93? how about combination of both? Say I want to run e85 but when I'm traveling run 93? ideas? I wouldn't mind spending the coin for the an additional power and piece of mind
E85 is amazing, however I don't think I would do it if the only station is 45 mins away.
I have 3 stations within 30 minutes, one within 10 mins, and even that can be a hit of a pain in the ass at times.
If you can get a 50 gallon drum and keep it at your place, that may make it a bit more feasible.
You will need a two tunes if you want to switch between 93 and E85. Also youll need to be careful when switching from 93 to E85, as some 93 will remain in the tank and dilute your E85. If you are going to be pushing the limits of your setup that is something to consider.
Don't bother running 60# injectors or a 255 with E85. Upgrade to a walbro 485 and a minimum of 80# injectors (speak with your tuner). Youll also need an adjustable fuel pressure reg, 485 pump will over run stock reg. Id also suggest dropping the gas tank and cleaning it up real good , E85 will break loose any gunk that's been sitting in your tank. And id suggest replacing your fuel lines. I didn't upgrade lines, but I did replace them with new rubber high pressure fuel injection hose.
Simple question ill help. Daily driver = no, ever go on 4hr+ trip? = no. Injection out of the question? = no. Want a super fast car only meant for racing = yes
Me going on long trips was a deal breaker for me.
Thanks for the write up Raj and MK.
I wish I would have thought about the 2 tune setup at first. I could even swap DME's for 93/E85 tune
It really seems like the best and safest way to go. And the car really is setup for the track more than anything else. All the comfortable aspects of it are gone. Maybe to and form work, town, and local back roads Was hoping to hit the track soon and was my main goal for the car. I have a truck and camper I pull when I travel long distances for vacation. But it would be nice to take the car behind them every once in awhile in which case I could swap in a DME for pump gas.
As far as mixing the two fuel types, how about a valve on the tank that can be opened to drain out any unwanted fuel?
I'll have to get with Zack and see what says. But right now I'm pretty set on going E85. I'm sure theres someone out there who needs a set of 60lbers and a basically new 255 - will be posted for sale
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-03-2018 at 08:24 PM.
I have e85 about 18 miles away
Hey guys, been awhile since I posted. ( I think my questions have piled up ). Hopefully you guys can help me out once again
Drove the car slowly yesterday (waiting for flares to arrive as my tires are rubbing badly)
but AFRS are a bit high, lows 12s and sometimes around 11.9-11.8. I did a boost leak test yesterday and couldn't find anything. Code P1550 (ICV) the car does misfire at idle once it warm. But usually afrs around 14.7.
Thinking maybe oil on MAF? It has gotten significantly colder here in VA so I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it
Also,
While pulling the cold side pipes there was quite a bit of oil in there. What is a 'normal' amount
EBC is showing OBS (overboost protection) quite quickly now at 7 PSI with the cold whether. Shouldn't the WG be able to regulate boost to keep a constant pressure?
AEM Meth injection nozzle - I have 1 single nozzle where should I mount it? I can't decide and I've never dealt with Meth before
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-20-2018 at 08:07 AM.
Your cold idle is 12:1 or its always at 12:1? Cruise is also 12:1?
The pipes should be dry.
The nozzle should ideally go after the maf.
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1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
Cold idle is good I believe. Rich on cold start and then the O2 is pulling fuel to 14's mostly around 14.7. Cruise is 14-15.
In boost, WOT I'm seeing low 12's, 12.2 - 12.0, 11.9-11.8 very briefly. I did another boost leak test and I think I found a leak at the epoxied goose neck, couldn't source it but it is coming from underneath the manifold
Where would be a good spot on the manifold for the nozzle which would distribute the flow equally?
Cleaned the MAF as well, did have a little oil around the seal.
Also finally got around to re-torquing the head studs, they needed it...
Next plan of action is to replace the manifold, and tap it correctly for the last time. Finish the meth install which I'm assuming will require some tuning mods?
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-20-2018 at 05:06 PM. Reason: q
Last edited by rajicase; 01-20-2018 at 05:02 PM.
How far after the MAF can it be? I can tap the intake pipe but its gonna be like maybe 1" - 1 1/2" after the MAF. I've tried putting in the elbow already, doesn't work too well
Ha, no car is on 7 PSI spring and its more than likely 10 or so. I actually turned up boost a bit to see if AFR's would go down, they didn't .
Before at the same settings the car was well into the 11's
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-20-2018 at 05:13 PM.
The 'actual' nozzle (comes with three different spray sizes) that screws into the plastic housing is super tiny in length. Maybe like 1/2 an inch. With the boot being as thick as it is the end of the nozzle doesn't reach the inside of the boot to fasten the nut. I ruined my old mishi boot trying to get it work, I shaved the rubber down and by the time I was done and had it fastened boost was blowing the nozzle clean out of the boot, huge boost leak
Had to buy a new boot cost me $60
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-20-2018 at 05:19 PM.
Yeah 12s are where you should be for 7psi.
As long as you are using meth as a safety factor / heat suppressant you are fine without a revision. If you were pushing the octane limits we would wanna tweak it some. That being said if you need a revision for some reason we can do it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
Good to know.
Yes, its a heat suppressent/crappy gas precaution. If I can get it hooked up that is. 7 months/$500 later the kit is installed but I can't figure out where to put the nozzle.
Once I get the car put back to together, meth installed it would great if you can get there work your magic/make sure everything looks good. Been wanting to do that for awhile
- - - Updated - - -
I really can't afford to spend anymore money on this thing right now. Going to have to make it work with what I have.
I think I may just put it in right after the MAF, really only choice at this point. Boost should prevent the maf from getting wet...
- - - Updated - - -
On another note,
Did you guys see a significant loss of lb fts when you re-torqued your head studs for the first time? Quite a few of mine where at least 10-12 lbs light... Haven't had any signs of sealing problems though that I'm aware of
When I had a spacer I did. With no spacer mine didn't loosen up much.
Since I was underneath the car today I decided to check in between the seam of the block for leaks. I didn't really see anything dripping as the car wasn't running but I did notice some moisture on outside of the spacer/gasket. I'm hoping this isn't a big deal. I wiped most of it off before snapping a pic:
What do you guys think. Should there be concern?
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Last edited by 328iFun; 01-20-2018 at 07:24 PM.
Went out and tested it. Turned ebc up to 14 psi
Jacked the car up and I noticed some oil, very light on the outside of the gasket. Its not dripping or anything and is barely visible. Seeping I guess you could say. Car hasn't been driven to much maybe 500 + miles. Probably will seal itself.
Think I'm just being anal at this point guys.
But car is still super quick
Oil leaks give character.
Don't be one of those guys.
Check the oil regularly,
wipe down that spot with your monogrammed handkerchief
and pretend you're leaving an oil slick for the dude in the STI you just left behind.
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