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Thread: m52 Turbo Build

  1. #1376
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    No eating week old pizza either. What a drag.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
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  2. #1377
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  3. #1378
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    Quote Originally Posted by vollosso View Post
    morning sequoia.


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    That looks pretty awesome.

    Honestly, I would like to get into tuning since I'm already a IT guy, computer part of it would be a breeze for me. I just don't know enough about inner workings of an ECU to start from scratch

  4. #1379
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iFun View Post
    That looks pretty awesome.

    Honestly, I would like to get into tuning since I'm already a IT guy, computer part of it would be a breeze for me. I just don't know enough about inner workings of an ECU to start from scratch
    Get a standalone if you want to play pp touch.

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  5. #1380
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iFun View Post
    Yeah, I've been avoiding rear end work for awhile. Seems like its a PITA. But looks like its that time
    Either get a buddy or multiple jacks or both. Shits heavy back there. Whole back end drops out easy though.

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  6. #1381
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    Its not too bad. I can knock out a whole rearend in like 1 beer and back in with another...


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    1989 535i - sold
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    1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
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    1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  7. #1382
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    It's six (6) trailing arm bolts,
    four (4) or six (6) driveshaft bolts
    and four (4) subframe bolts.

  8. #1383
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    Quote Originally Posted by milKt View Post
    It's six (6) trailing arm bolts,
    four (4) or six (6) driveshaft bolts
    and four (4) subframe bolts.
    Forgot the half-shafts.. the best part


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    1989 535i - sold
    1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
    1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
    2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
    2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
    1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current

    1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  9. #1384
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    Since he included the trailing arms he may be including the whole rear end, including half shafts meaning leaving the diff in place and dropping the whole assembly. You can unbolt the metal brake line and hang the calipers without disconnecting the lines. The e-brake lines can be disconnected under the hand brake and pulled out but up here in NH they may be rusted and benefit from replacement. It's heavy but if you have a lift that is less of a problem. If I was solo on my back, I'd at least pull the diff first and maybe take more things off the subframe, but it is easier to change control arm bushings with the greater access you have when the whole assembly is on the floor -- especially if you are in a region where cars rust.
    Last edited by pbonsalb; 11-13-2017 at 11:07 AM.

  10. #1385
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    Since he included the trailing arms he may be including the whole rear end, including half shafts meaning leaving the diff in place and dropping the whole assembly. You can unbolt the metal brake line and hang the calipers without disconnecting the lines. The e-brake lines can be involved under the hand brake and pulled out but up here in NH they may be rusted and benefit from replacement. It's heavy but if you have a lift that is less of a problem. If I was solo on my back, I'd at least pull the diff first and maybe take more things off the subframe, but it is easier to change control arm bushings with the greater access you have when the whole assembly is on the floor -- especially if you are in a region where cars rust.

    Wow,

    This sounds like its gonna suck pretty badly.

    It may be rusted. I drove the on car on the east coast for a while

    - - - Updated - - -

    Anyone heard of or tried these coil overs?


    http://speed-daddy.com/j2-sports-32-...bmw-e36-325-m3
    Last edited by 328iFun; 11-13-2017 at 08:39 AM.

  11. #1386
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iFun View Post
    Wow,

    This sounds like its gonna suck pretty badly.

    It may be rusted. I drove the on car on the east coast for a while

    - - - Updated - - -

    Anyone heard of or tried these coil overs?

    https://www.redline360.com/j2-coilov...6-J2-CO-060-WS
    Seriously not bad. I can drop one in an hour or two by myself

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  12. #1387
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    Come do it for me

  13. #1388
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iFun View Post

    Anyone heard of or tried these coil overs?

    http://speed-daddy.com/j2-sports-32-...bmw-e36-325-m3
    I would not buy more cheap coilovers to replace your cheap coilovers. Redo the suspension first. Then think about coilovers. Maybe some quality ones will turn up used or maybe a set of Konis plus lowering springs.

  14. #1389
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    Two votes for konis.



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    1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
    2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
    2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
    2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
    1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current

    1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  15. #1390
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    Those coilovers are way too expensive for cheap coilovers. I have two pair of the "Maxspeedingrods" brand coilovers that are probably the same as those other than paint, and the "24-way adjustable set" was right around $300 shipped I think. They have been great by the way.

    And before everyone jumps to conclusions, I've had plenty of Konis and revalved Konis over the years in different setups that I've won regional autocross championships on, in a very competitive class. These cheap crap china coilovers just are WAAAY better than they should be for the money. The only problem with them is that the rear springs are too soft. I slapped in some ~850#ers with no rear sway bar, and everything is great. But to each his own.

    Oh, in the interest of complete disclosure, I have not tried the non-adjustable set on the car. I got them because I needed replacement parts after I tore a corner off the car in a drifting incident, haha.. (and I was able to re-use the adjustable center cartridge part)
    Last edited by tptrsn; 11-13-2017 at 11:28 AM.

  16. #1391
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    Quote Originally Posted by vollosso View Post
    Forgot the half-shafts.. the best part
    not if you're dropping to WHOLE rear assy outta there...

    like this purple peenple eater

    Last edited by milKt; 11-13-2017 at 11:57 AM.

  17. #1392
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    Yup, Raj sent me a few pics of that setup. Looks good, wish I had it.

    My suspension is currently shot and the tires rub horribly when I hit bumps of indents in the road. Currently running style 32's 17" 5 series offset on 245/40's. I think spaces/camber may help.

    How about these Konis?

    https://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...23&ignorebbr=1

    I would like to do suspension/rear end all in one go

  18. #1393
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    Should not be running E39 5 series offset in the rear of an E36 with 245 series tires.

  19. #1394
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    Should not be running E39 5 series offset in the rear of an E36 with 245 series tires.
    why not?

  20. #1395
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  21. #1396
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    Because the offset is 20 so the wheels are pushed out to the fender lips. A stock car can run 245s no problem but 255s even with heavy rolling are a problem and those of us with 275s have heavy doing and our rears are jacked up. That is with stock 40 offset. Reduce to 20 offset and you have even less room. You can tilt the tires in like some kids do but massive negative camber hurts straight line traction and chews up the inside edge of the tire.

  22. #1397
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    Because the offset is 20 so the wheels are pushed out to the fender lips. A stock car can run 245s no problem but 255s even with heavy rolling are a problem and those of us with 275s have heavy doing and our rears are jacked up. That is with stock 40 offset. Reduce to 20 offset and you have even less room. You can tilt the tires in like some kids do but massive negative camber hurts straight line traction and chews up the inside edge of the tire.
    Gotcha,

    Thanks for the explanation

    I have fender flares on the front anticipating that I'd be running wide tires in the future. When I can afford it I'm going to get flares for the rear as well which should alleviate some of the rubbing.

    I just couldn't pass up finding a decent set of style 32's in 17 so I had to have them.

  23. #1398
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    Any recommendations for wheels and tires ?

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  24. #1399
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    I've got 17x9 arc 8s for sale cheap! Et30

  25. #1400
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mklock View Post
    I've got 17x9 arc 8s for sale cheap! Et30
    How much? Tires on them?

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