m52 Turbo Build

[tptrsn]

Is there any reason not to just drill straight through for a larger through bolt with a nut on the back side?

[Kevin325i]

Is there any reason not to just drill straight through for a larger through bolt with a nut on the back side?

Technically "no" since the bolt should not see any load in shear only load should be transmitted through the face and there should be enough clamp load that it never moves and loads the bolt. But it's also super easy to replace.

However if it does slip at the joint now you're loading in single shear and every little bit of diameter and unsupported length is a pretty big deal.

[Butters Stoch]

I used to drill out and go 1/2 or even 14mm hardened grade 12 bolts when I was stubborn and wanted to keep a 188 in there. Never had an issue with the bolts again. I ran a 1/2 socket cap bolt on mine and drilled a few 14mm and 1/2 for other members. You need to use a carbide bit and dremel out a fin for the nut. Use a locking one.

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[Mklock]

Yeah, this is another reason I did my upgrade it's simply less hassle all the way around. It's solid mount and with poly bushings I still get almost zero NVH from my diff. Also don't worry about Breaking's stubbs, drive shaft will be my next upgrade but that's down the road.

[328iFun]

Hmm,

can't decide whether or not to go 210 or 188.

Im pretty happy with the power the car is making right now and I'm hitting about 12 PSI wot 55+ on a 7psi spring. It seems like I may be best of going 210 if I can find one for the right price that way I don't have to worry about it again and do all poly bushings as well

Car still drives fine I just can't drop the clutch and launch it from a standstill because it feels like the rear end is about to explode

I've still got so much other little things to take care of as well. Like a couple lights, trim, and my front windshield completely cracked recently so I have to get that replaced as well, FML.

I need to win the lottery but the car is SO much fun to drive

I have't done any work in the rear of this car yet so Its going to be all new to me. I'm sure Ill see what you guys are talking about once I get underneath of it

[vollosso]

I dont see any reason to go 210 at your power level. If you are on oem bushings you need to replace them. You can do this in a saturday and enjoy the car.

4/7 busings for the rear are reusable with the 210 swap anyway so your only out like 100$.

Bushings and alignment are so critical to traction and control. The car will be much better after these two.


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[Mklock]

Vol is correct about not needing it, but the truth is it simply is more robust. Honestly if you put money into getting the 188 setup right the 210 isn't to far off. This is only a cheaper option if you can fabricate / weld. My self I like paying for peace of mind although it can get pricey at times.

[328iFun]

Gotcha,

I have the equipment to weld but not sure how it would turn out not knowing how to do it or it being my first time...

Gotta be a DIY writeup around here somewhere for both of them. So I guess at this point since they'll both work for my power goals I'll go with the cheaper and hopefully easier of the two, the 188

[pbonsalb]

For 400-500 rwhp on the street on street tires, I'd keep it simple and stick with a 188 diff. Definitely an LSD, preferably upgraded to 3 or 4 clutch. I never broke anything on the street on street tires with 500 rwhp and 500 lbs rwtq. The OP's problems are most likely due to having a worn out 20 year old suspension. While replacing the suspension I would upgrade the subframe and diff bushings and add reinforcements and use either limiters or poly in the RTABS.

I'd say that if you are running a stock driveshaft and not breaking it, you do not need a 210 diff conversion.

[328iFun]

Vol,

Is the one have for sale a 188 and what I need to get this thing moving better? I don't recall

[328iFun]

For 400-500 rwhp on the street on street tires, I'd keep it simple and stick with a 188 diff. Definitely an LSD, preferably upgraded to 3 or 4 clutch. I never broke anything on the street on street tires with 500 rwhp and 500 lbs rwtq. The OP's problems are most likely due to having a worn out 20 year old suspension. While replacing the suspension I would upgrade the subframe and diff bushings and add reinforcements and use either limiters or poly in the RTABS.

I'd say that if you are running a stock driveshaft and not breaking it, you do not need a 210 diff conversion.

Yeah, I've been avoiding rear end work for awhile. Seems like its a PITA. But looks like its that time

[pbonsalb]

I would do the front end as well. About 31 bushings, mounts, links, and ball joints under the car. A fully refreshed suspension is so nice -- supple ride. Most of us did not buy our cars new and did not know what it feels like. It is a lot of work but totally worthwhile in my opinion. More power with a worn out suspension just makes the ride and handling worse.

[328iFun]

I would do the front end as well. About 31 bushings, mounts, links, and ball joints under the car. A fully refreshed suspension is so nice -- supple ride. Most of us did not buy our cars new and did not know what it feels like. It is a lot of work but totally worthwhile in my opinion. More power with a worn out suspension just makes the ride and handling worse.

I noticed quite a bit of a difference when i did the control arms years ago. I'd imagine that a new suspension would be nice.

Still looking for a decent set of shocks/struts/springs to replace this crap JOM coil over setup.

[vollosso]

Ill message you in a bit


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[328iFun]

Just hit 16.4 PSI boost tonight according to eboost street 2 peak hold level. Currently set to 14 psi for over-boost shutdown and its the first time I've seen the over-boost protection light flash. Maybe its the cold weather, it was 25 degrees when I was driving.

Not sure if that would make a difference? But I haven't really seen the car go over 10PSI until tonight and but it was definitely 'gettin' it', felt good. Just wanna make sure this thing doesnt spike 'too' high

[chikinhed]

I took my M3 out last night. It was probably the last real drive of the year before it gets more mods and body work. The cool weather will give you more power and less traction, I just left the eBoost2 on low boost and that was giving the RE71R's a hard time.

[rajicase]

I've got a perfect 188mm 3.23 lsd for sale with poly bushings included if interested.

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[milKt]

this crap JOM coil over setup.

What brand?

Never heard of that.

[328iFun]

What brand?

Never heard of that.

JOM... basically race land equivalents

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[328iFun]

I took my M3 out last night. It was probably the last real drive of the year before it gets more mods and body work. The cool weather will give you more power and less traction, I just left the eBoost2 on low boost and that was giving the RE71R's a hard time.

Yeah, I wasn't expecting it, hitting 14-16 psi like it was nothing.

I think the b28 likes it



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[vollosso]

Look at some compressor charts, turbos don't really wake up until 16-18psi


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[milKt]

turbos don't really wake up until 16-18psi

with morning sequoia

[vollosso]

morning sequoia.


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[someguy2800]

As it says in the book of Leviticus chapter 19;

And The Lord spoke to Moses and said, thou shall not pursuith power without proper driveline prepetration lest ye be led to sadness

[Butters Stoch]

Leviticus don't mess around, no tattoos, he doesn't want you to be a cutter, and not a fan of child trafficking. Seems to be against cross breeding plants and animals as well.

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