But how is the smoking now? That was why you vented the drain line, right? It's a concept just like a vented drain pipe in a house I guess. I never thought of applying it to a car.
As far as the welded diff, it's totally a personal preference thing. I got totally used to it now (doesn't mean I don't notice it, just that it doesn't bother me at all), and I've gotten to the point where I really enjoy the 100% predictability of it. My dad (who is 70) and I were goofing around with the car one day including "off roading" with it lol. After we were done he had me weld the diff in his beater truck that he drives around and gathers fire wood with, etc. He's 100% happy with it.
So anyway, it's not for everyone, but it can be super awesome. I should disclose though that I spent years racing sprint karts, so I have a special affinity for the "no differential" life. Haha
- - - Updated - - -
I can vouch for that IF you shift with boost. It turns out that the 4L30e can handle a decent amount of abuse if you don't shift in boost, and don't try to put too much torque through 3rd gear.
Let me know what you think, I tried trimming the video to start from 0 mph but it looks like I got from 10mph to about 70. And I didn't ring 1st gear all the way either. The car is hitting 10-11 PSI due to boost creep when high the power band. Also keep in mind the car is basically gutted, no carpet, panels, light weight seats, no softop or frame, no hood, No bumper supports, no spare, etc... No Auto, its the ZF with a stage 3 clutch and chromoly flywheel. Style 32's wheels with 245 45 17's all around
If you look at the seek bar at the bottom of the video im going 70 by the 4th second the entire video is 6 seconds long:
Last edited by 328iFun; 10-18-2017 at 09:46 AM.
If the video doesn't do justice, I know I could take this car out this evening and get it to runn 0-60 in 3.5-4 seconds with a better video. About 99% confident.
The car really lights up in redline, I wasn't expect it all. I was thinking she was going to be wore out by 6,000. Maybe the S52 cams helped?
Last edited by 328iFun; 10-18-2017 at 09:48 AM.
I'm very curious about this. I may try it on my E36 that I am draining to the drainplug but from a top mount. Super cheap China turbo in my case that may just be shot already, but kind of doubt it, I think more likely I have issues with my drain setup. I was going to pull the pan and weld in a conventional drain setup, but I always like to try stuff if there is a reason to.
You are timing so maybe it is that quick. I am definitely surprised you are doing that well on street tires. Based on my track times, I figured I am that quick on drag radials with 50% more rwhp.
Last edited by pbonsalb; 10-18-2017 at 10:14 AM.
I agree,
It really doesn't make much sense to me either. I knew the .58 AR would spool up quick but I really thought it'd be done at 90+ or at red line - but that's not the case.
This is with a 2.5" down-pipe as well, not too shabby. Like I said 12+ psi is going to be pretty crazy. car starts building boost right around or a little bit before 3,000 rpms
I think I may have to install a stiffer spring as I've tried turning it up but it doesn't increase probably due to back pressure opening the wastegate
Last edited by 328iFun; 10-18-2017 at 10:30 AM.
Ken
95' Dakar M3
(GT35) 500whp+ and no clue what I'm doing....
Steedspeed Twin-scroll Manifold, Wiseco 8.8:1 CR, K1 Rods, Supertech Valvetrain, ARP Main Studs, o-ring block, GTR 12mm head studs, GT35R with 86mm HTA billet compressor wheel (GT3586RHTA) Twin-Scroll 1.06 AR, Schrick Cams, TRM Tuning, 6 Speed Transmission, UUC Twin Disc Clutch, HFS-6 W/M injection, Zeitronix, Coilovers, Chassis Stuffs.
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
I have over 200+ Miles now, no smoke what so ever.
Car is an absolute blast. I think I may have built my (within means) dream car.
pretty awesome
Guys,
I have been absolutely beating on this car and it doesn't skip a beat. Other than 245 tires rubbing no issues at all
Pretty sure I've kept in boost for the 300 miles I've driven it.
Addicting
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I feel like this car is super quick for 7 psi
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Go to the drag strip and find out.
I'm back everyone!
Now I have crazy wheel hop in 1st and second gear. Rear end starts bucking so I let off
Any ideas?
Diff bolt probably broken, rtabs probably shot.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
damnit
I knew I shouldn't have drop the clutch
If you can "drive" the car, its not built. When I first went down this road, I wanted to build a car that would be = to or greater than a 996TT. Since I couldn't afford one of those. I wanted a bullet proof 500-550whp car that I could go out and beat the snot out of with out calling a tow truck. I didn't want a car that could only run from 60+mph.
Yes the $3000 extra in drive line parts sucks. But, to say you have a car that can only put down 500hp from 60mph on sucks more. Adding power is easy, having it all hold up and putting it down isn't.
Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Gotcha, thanks.
So what's next
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Yup time for a solid mount 210mm welcome to the club.
that thing revs out past 7k! wish my m30 did that
For now you could just weld on a $40 Max Psi brace for the front diff bolt if that is the issue. I never broke a diff bolt. It us possible tgat just running stiffer diff bushings will do the job.
Once you start breaking diff output stubs, you need to go to the 210 diff. Reducing axle hop and not running R compound tires should make it less likely you break a diff output stub.
You can twist a driveshaft in 2 launching if you have traction.
You can damage transmission internals if you have enough torque.
More power, more mods needed to handle the power. More cost.
Some of those mods, like a 210 diff conversion with solid front mount, and a DSS one piece drive shaft that replaces the guibo with a u joint, noticeably compromise daily driveability by adding NVH.
I've got a 188 cover with solid aluminum bushings and the front delrin bushing drilled out to 14mm I'll sell you cheap. I'll even send you the stuff to drill out your diff and tap it to 14mm, shit I probably have a 14mm diff bolt since I went 210.
Anyways I never bent or broke diff bolts with that setup and I could bend them on command with factory bushings. I only went to the 210 because the 188 was screaming after a few pulls.
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