m52 Turbo Build

**e30kid89** · 10-03-2017, 10:38 PM

Just noticed you had a spa manifold....why no gravity drain? I am draining a BW EFR9180 with no issues. I am however using an s54 oil pan/pump setup which keeps less oil in the pan versus the standard m5x pan.

**vollosso** · 10-03-2017, 10:41 PM

Originally Posted by e30kid89

Just noticed you had a spa manifold....why no gravity drain? I am draining a BW EFR9180 with no issues. I am however using an s54 oil pan/pump setup which keeps less oil in the pan versus the standard m5x pan.

HUH. When did you switch to efr????

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**e30kid89** · 10-03-2017, 11:11 PM

Swapped over the winter, been running it all season

**abq** · 10-04-2017, 12:22 PM

Originally Posted by e30kid89

Just noticed you had a spa manifold....why no gravity drain? I am draining a BW EFR9180 with no issues. I am however using an s54 oil pan/pump setup which keeps less oil in the pan versus the standard m5x pan.

your running an efr with a SPA? I always assumed the EFRs would be a little too big. Have pictures of your setup? What motor and when do you hit boost?

**328iFun** · 10-04-2017, 06:36 PM

Tapping plug was no problem.

I've run 7qts of dino oil through to drain out debris but I'm if I put my pink in there I can feel all kinds junk in the corners of the plug.

Suggestions?

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**AJLM34A** · 10-04-2017, 07:25 PM

Originally Posted by 328iFun

Tapping plug was no problem.

I've run 7qts of dino oil through to drain out debris but I'm if I put my pinky in there I can feel all kinds junk in the corners of the plug.

Suggestions?

Plug the hole with a paper towel, pour 1 quarts of ATF in, pull the towel and pour another quart of ATF in. Drain into a clean clear container and pour it out into a fine strainer. Inspect

**328iFun** · 10-04-2017, 08:02 PM

Thanks for the idea.

I think its going to require some force or PSI to get this sh$t out.

I've been filling the pan via the dip stick hole (as I've had to tube removed).

I'm thinking maybe a rubber hose in through the dip stick tube hole powered by an Spump and mineral spirits as solvent? Or take the my air chuck and spray around in there to break it up?

Also was thinking about taking a shop vac and duct taping a thin hose to end of it and possibly sucking the crap up?

Or pull the pan so I don't have to worry about it....

Sigh... I had a bad feeling about it

I really need to just build my spare motor since its out of the car so I can do this shit the right way and not have to worry about it

**pbonsalb** · 10-04-2017, 08:44 PM

I like the vacuum approach for where you are now, in addition to flushing. But I think you are supposed to put grease on the drill bit and tap and back out and clean repeatedly as you are working. You can always pull the pan. It's not that bad but there are a lot of bolts -- more than you think.

**328iFun** · 10-04-2017, 08:59 PM

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I like the vacuum approach for where you are now, in addition to flushing. But I think you are supposed to put grease on the drill bit and tap and back out and clean repeatedly as you are working. You can always pull the pan. It's not that bad but there are a lot of bolts -- more than you think.

I was told put grease on bit and I did. Oil on tap for threads.

All else will drain out.

Just trying to figure the cheapest best way to flush the pan from dip stick hole at this point or else I'll spend the weekend pulling the pan

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**s13flyboy** · 10-05-2017, 12:38 AM

I'd be worried that using air or pressure would push the debris into harder to reach spots and into the internals of the engine.

Vacuum might work, but If it were me, I'd pull the pan for peace of mind.

**rajicase** · 10-05-2017, 12:48 AM

I say run it.
Get as much as you can out and send it. If I were a betting man I would put money on 10 other things that are more likely to kill that motor than a few aluminum shavings...

**328iFun** · 10-05-2017, 07:11 AM

Originally Posted by rajicase

I say run it.
Get as much as you can out and send it. If I were a betting man I would put money on 10 other things that are more likely to kill that motor than a few aluminum shavings...

Lol

There's quite a bit Raj. Id hate to score my cyl walls after all this time and money.

Those of you have done it. What's the best way and fastest way to pull the pan

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**328iFun** · 10-05-2017, 07:12 AM

I guess could do the oil pump nut as well.

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**Kevin325i** · 10-05-2017, 10:14 AM

I say just run a can of seafoam through it. That stuff fixes anything...

Boost her till she blows.

**328iFun** · 10-05-2017, 10:33 AM

Originally Posted by Kevin325i

I say just run a can of seafoam through it. That stuff fixes anything...

Boost her till she blows.

I may get a set of picks from auto parts store and mineral spirits and see if I an pump the junk out first.

And maybe a vacuum

what a pain

**328iFun** · 10-05-2017, 05:48 PM

I think I'm getting most of the crap out.

On a side note got my ss wastegate lines installed

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**328iFun** · 10-05-2017, 07:18 PM

Let's see if she smokes....

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**328iFun** · 10-05-2017, 07:27 PM

She's alive...

For now

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**328iFun** · 10-05-2017, 07:48 PM

Smoke is identical to what was before minus the cloud on start. Since the turbos drained quite a bit

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**328iFun** · 10-05-2017, 08:27 PM

Other than not doing a vent yet, does it look wrong?

Thanks

**rajicase** · 10-05-2017, 08:38 PM

Looks like a good drain.
Also, those braided lines, unless they are PTFE they aren't really that heat resistant. Its just a rubber line under the braiding if it isn't PTFE, and will melt really easily. So not sure if they run close to the exhaust, hard to tell. But if they do, be careful.. Some people get a false sense of security with braided hose, truth is it really isn't that much more heat resistant than a regular hose...

**328iFun** · 10-05-2017, 08:42 PM

Originally Posted by rajicase

Looks like a good drain.
Also, those braided lines, unless they are PTFE they aren't really that heat resistant. Its just a rubber line under the braiding if it isn't PTFE, and will melt really easily. So not sure if they run close to the exhaust, hard to tell. But if they do, be careful.. Some people get a false sense of security with braided hose, truth is it really isn't that much more heat resistant than a regular hose...

Thanks, now I just need someone to tell me why its still smoking like a mf'er now. Especially when revved.

Not sure on the PTFE, I told the guy at the shop that they needed to be heat resistant because there close to exhaust and that's what he brought me. I guess ill call him to make sure.

But car is still smoking like before. maybe not quite as bad, dont know. Maybe a vent like Butters suggested but at this point I'm starting be get doubtful again.

maybe ill run out lowes tomorrow and get a 1/2 brass T and run a tube up in the engine bay. Either that or a scavenge pump (which really defeats the purpose of tapping the plug in the first place)

**someguy2800** · 10-05-2017, 09:47 PM

Did you actually drive it? If the charge pipes and exhaust are full of oil it's going to take awhile to get it all out. You'll want to clean the MAF too

**BadBoostedBmwM3** · 10-05-2017, 10:16 PM

Originally Posted by AJLM34A

Plug the hole with a paper towel, pour 1 quarts of ATF in, pull the towel and pour another quart of ATF in. Drain into a clean clear container and pour it out into a fine strainer. Inspect

Why ATF?

**milKt** · 10-06-2017, 06:03 AM

Originally Posted by rajicase

Looks like a good drain.
Also, those braided lines, unless they are PTFE they aren't really that heat resistant. Its just a rubber line under the braiding if it isn't PTFE, and will melt really easily. So not sure if they run close to the exhaust, hard to tell. But if they do, be careful.. Some people get a false sense of security with braided hose, truth is it really isn't that much more heat resistant than a regular hose...

Please link some IDEAL water/oil hose for areas near the turbo/manifold and downpipe.