m52 Turbo Build

[328iFun]

as i sorted it out i am glad that didnt happen something worse due to lean afr under boost

I'm not sure what a failsafe measure would be for voltage? An additional battery perhaps? A voltage gauge?

There's so much stuff I still need if I decide to keep everything

[jakeE36325]

Sounds like your on the right track. It would be a shame to part it out after all the work you have done. I'm sure the first drive after you get it running smoothly will change your mind.

[328iFun]

Sounds like your on the right track. It would be a shame to part it out after all the work you have done. I'm sure the first drive after you get it running smoothly will change your mind.

Man, I hope so. I got to take a little trip to a friends house and I don't think I stopped smiling the whole drive. But right now the cons are outweighing the pros.

But anyway:

Bentley says there is "Alternator warning light and field energizing circuit", AKA the battery light next to the high beam indicator. I'm about 95% sure mine no longer lights up. If this is the case that one little bulb could be affecting voltage according to the Bentley and to me this seems odd, see diagram 'D'


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[dkech]

Man, I hope so. I got to take a little trip to a friends house and I don't think I stopped smiling the whole drive. But right now the cons are outweighing the pros.

But anyway:

Bentley says there is "Alternator warning light and field energizing circuit", AKA the battery light next to the high beam indicator. I'm about 95% sure mine no longer lights up. If this is the case that one little bulb could be affecting voltage according to the Bentley and to me this seems odd, see diagram 'D'


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in my case the light came on when the car couldnt hold idle but the voltage drop and the afr leaning has started long time ago

[328iFun]

in my case the light came on when the car couldnt hold idle but the voltage drop and the afr leaning has started long time ago

Good to know, I dont think mine comes on - at all

Check this out an old Rajicase thread concerning this exact issue: Lol

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-Battery-Light

Raj, did your bulb come back on?

[rajicase]

Good to know, I dont think mine comes on - at all

Check this out an old Rajicase thread concerning this exact issue: Lol

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-Battery-Light

Raj, did your bulb come back on?

I don't remember, but I do know the issue was just shit alternators from advanced. I'm still running the same OE alternator today and it's working fine.

My battery light functions normally though.

[328iFun]

I don't remember, but I do know the issue was just shit alternators from advanced. I'm still running the same OE alternator today and it's working fine.

My battery light functions normally though.

I'm going to advanced today

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[328iFun]

Alternator and battery tested good

But no battery light at all?

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[328iFun]

Changed out cluster battery light is back same problem.

The car idled perfect when I got off work and started it cold.

Then it slowly went down hill

Crankshaft circuit code still popping up. Anyone every have problems with Non OEM sensors?

[Butters Stoch]

Changed out cluster battery light is back same problem.

The car idled perfect when I got off work and started it cold.

Then it slowly went down hill

Crankshaft circuit code still popping up. Anyone every have problems with Non OEM sensors?

Do you have that extension harness ? When did this start happening ? What was done before it happened.

[328iFun]

Do you have that extension harness ? When did this start happening ? What was done before it happened.

No not yet, I can try to get one tomorrow for the pressure guage

I got a crank shaft code probably Monday. Nothing changed in idle when the code came up its just gotten worse

I bought a sensor from advance tho k it was Delphi and the code keeps coming back.

Also got a camshaft code I swapped the sensor from my spare motor i haven't seen it come back

I'm thinking about ordering a OEM crank shaft sensor?

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[328iFun]

All of the codes always say circuit though isn't that indicative of a electrical problem?

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[Vitaliy]

Didn't realize all this space was available.

Perfect for a relay center so I redid all my turbo related wiring there, happy with it!

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May i ask what exactly that you did here? It seems that issues followed immediately after. Might be nothing but im curious.

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[Butters Stoch]

I meant the OEM extension wiring harness that ties the crank sensor to the vanos and something else. I don't remember. Those can go bad.
Aftermarket cam/crank sensors are a no no.
Get OEM.
Also, if you can reset adaption, I would do that. But the car will run like crap for a few miles.

Can you see live data ?
Can you read your fuel trims ?
LTFT's are very important. This will tell us if your pulling or adding fuel.
Then we can attack.

Cam/crank sensors can mess all kinds of crap up.

Have you checked your BOV ? Is it stuck open ?

Can you read MAF voltage ?

Gotta get data to diagnose. Or your throwing darts and spending 100's maybe 1000's for unneeded replacement parts.

[328iFun]

May i ask what exactly that you did here? It seems that issues followed immediately after. Might be nothing but im curious.

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I'm glad you asked.

Those are relays for 2 aux fans, boost controller, wideband, fuel pump, and scavenge pump.

I had a slight overheat in 100 degree weather so I installed a second fan, Solved the problem. But when attempting to install it my cables were so disorganized I Couldn't figure out what was what. So I relocated all relays to the glove box and labeled every single wire and every single relay and ran all new cable to length. I can't stand disorganization.

All the relays are activated at ign on via splicing the into headunit harness and power is distributed through that fuse box to the right.

And you are right about the issue presenting itself, the issue has always been present but nowhere near as bad as it is now. What amplified it was the test drive after finishing the cabling:

Took the car out it and the extra fan fixed the problem, great right?

However on the way I was at about 4,000rpm when the car just stalled out going about 60. I heard a loud bang from the exhaust and pulled over. Smoke was pouring out. Took me a minute to figure it out but the power cable going to fuse box had gotten hot and lost contact with the connector (Fuel pump, scavenge, and all the accessory devices I listed above shut off at 4k rpms). I adjusted the connector and fired the car back up, it smoked for about 2 minutes I waited for the smoke to clear and drove it home. Drove fine at highway speeds like it always has.

When I got home idle was worse and that's where I'm at now but the car has always had intermittent idle issues just not as extreme

I've since fixed the power to fuse box.

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[328iFun]

I meant the OEM extension wiring harness that ties the crank sensor to the vanos and something else. I don't remember. Those can go bad.
I didn't know you could get a replacement harness. Ties to Crank Sensor, Vanos Solenoid and bottom of fuel rail. Where can I order this from?
Aftermarket cam/crank sensors are a no no.
Get OEM.
Also, if you can reset adaption, I would do that. But the car will run like crap for a few miles.The car hasn't been in a driveable state for over a week now I have a ton of panels and parts off for trouleshooting. I don't have the equipment to reset adaptations
Can you see live data ?
Yes
Can you read your fuel trims ?
Yes
LTFT's are very important. This will tell us if your pulling or adding fuel.
Then we can attack.

Cam/crank sensors can mess all kinds of crap up.

Have you checked your BOV ? Is it stuck open ?
It is not
Can you read MAF voltage ?
I have a multimeter, according to the tuner the MAF is working properly. However, I don't want to rule it out.
Gotta get data to diagnose. Or your throwing darts and spending 100's maybe 1000's for unneeded replacement parts. Ive spent 400+ the last week

At this point if someone is willing to remote into my laptop and browse around and see what they can I find they are more than welcome. I have scan professional XL, it appears to have all kinds of parameters in it but Im not sure what most of it means. I have team viewer and a hotspot or can use any type of remote software anyone uses

I would be willing to pay someone with the little bit of money i have right now

Ill report back with the things I can find on the laptop, like I said though I don't know what most of it means

[sto9]

Throttle position sensor checked?

[crazyyardie]

Where was the smoke coming from ?? That's not good when u let the magic smoke of computers



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[328iFun]

I've figured how to export the logs to csv, I'll be posting k e shortly.

I'm selecting PIDS now



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[328iFun]

These are the only options i have for MAF logging are any useful?

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[328iFun]

Where was the smoke coming from ?? That's not good when u let the magic smoke of computers



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Exhaust, I think it backfired because there wasn't enough air to burn the fuel once the fuel pump shut off.

I run a scavenge for turbo drain too and the pump shut off as well so oil more than likely went over turbo seals and into exhaust creating smoke

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[328iFun]

Throttle position sensor checked?

I posted a log of tps sensor monitor awhile back pbonsalb said it look fine.

But the % position will be on this log about to post here shortly

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[328iFun]

Heres a link to the log:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3b...ew?usp=sharing

[328iFun]

Here are maf readings during idle https://youtu.be/zGd0Gd6dqGg

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[sto9]

Throttle position sensor is a potmeter and can be worn in specific positions. Lik an old amp being crappy when turning volume.
Water in tank/ filter causing a periodical "lock"? Add some alcohol to the tank and rugg.
Just throwing some ideas.
Most else are tried..