Sounds like your on the right track. It would be a shame to part it out after all the work you have done. I'm sure the first drive after you get it running smoothly will change your mind.
Man, I hope so. I got to take a little trip to a friends house and I don't think I stopped smiling the whole drive. But right now the cons are outweighing the pros.
But anyway:
Bentley says there is "Alternator warning light and field energizing circuit", AKA the battery light next to the high beam indicator. I'm about 95% sure mine no longer lights up. If this is the case that one little bulb could be affecting voltage according to the Bentley and to me this seems odd, see diagram 'D'
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Good to know, I dont think mine comes on - at all
Check this out an old Rajicase thread concerning this exact issue: Lol
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-Battery-Light
Raj, did your bulb come back on?
Last edited by 328iFun; 08-11-2017 at 12:07 PM.
Alternator and battery tested good
But no battery light at all?
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Changed out cluster battery light is back same problem.
The car idled perfect when I got off work and started it cold.
Then it slowly went down hill
Crankshaft circuit code still popping up. Anyone every have problems with Non OEM sensors?
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
No not yet, I can try to get one tomorrow for the pressure guage
I got a crank shaft code probably Monday. Nothing changed in idle when the code came up its just gotten worse
I bought a sensor from advance tho k it was Delphi and the code keeps coming back.
Also got a camshaft code I swapped the sensor from my spare motor i haven't seen it come back
I'm thinking about ordering a OEM crank shaft sensor?
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All of the codes always say circuit though isn't that indicative of a electrical problem?
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I meant the OEM extension wiring harness that ties the crank sensor to the vanos and something else. I don't remember. Those can go bad.
Aftermarket cam/crank sensors are a no no.
Get OEM.
Also, if you can reset adaption, I would do that. But the car will run like crap for a few miles.
Can you see live data ?
Can you read your fuel trims ?
LTFT's are very important. This will tell us if your pulling or adding fuel.
Then we can attack.
Cam/crank sensors can mess all kinds of crap up.
Have you checked your BOV ? Is it stuck open ?
Can you read MAF voltage ?
Gotta get data to diagnose. Or your throwing darts and spending 100's maybe 1000's for unneeded replacement parts.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
I'm glad you asked.
Those are relays for 2 aux fans, boost controller, wideband, fuel pump, and scavenge pump.
I had a slight overheat in 100 degree weather so I installed a second fan, Solved the problem. But when attempting to install it my cables were so disorganized I Couldn't figure out what was what. So I relocated all relays to the glove box and labeled every single wire and every single relay and ran all new cable to length. I can't stand disorganization.
All the relays are activated at ign on via splicing the into headunit harness and power is distributed through that fuse box to the right.
And you are right about the issue presenting itself, the issue has always been present but nowhere near as bad as it is now. What amplified it was the test drive after finishing the cabling:
Took the car out it and the extra fan fixed the problem, great right?
However on the way I was at about 4,000rpm when the car just stalled out going about 60. I heard a loud bang from the exhaust and pulled over. Smoke was pouring out. Took me a minute to figure it out but the power cable going to fuse box had gotten hot and lost contact with the connector (Fuel pump, scavenge, and all the accessory devices I listed above shut off at 4k rpms). I adjusted the connector and fired the car back up, it smoked for about 2 minutes I waited for the smoke to clear and drove it home. Drove fine at highway speeds like it always has.
When I got home idle was worse and that's where I'm at now but the car has always had intermittent idle issues just not as extreme
I've since fixed the power to fuse box.
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Last edited by 328iFun; 08-11-2017 at 10:35 PM.
At this point if someone is willing to remote into my laptop and browse around and see what they can I find they are more than welcome. I have scan professional XL, it appears to have all kinds of parameters in it but Im not sure what most of it means. I have team viewer and a hotspot or can use any type of remote software anyone uses
I would be willing to pay someone with the little bit of money i have right now
Ill report back with the things I can find on the laptop, like I said though I don't know what most of it means
Last edited by 328iFun; 08-11-2017 at 10:39 PM.
Throttle position sensor checked?
Where was the smoke coming from ?? That's not good when u let the magic smoke of computers
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I've figured how to export the logs to csv, I'll be posting k e shortly.
I'm selecting PIDS now
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These are the only options i have for MAF logging are any useful?
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Exhaust, I think it backfired because there wasn't enough air to burn the fuel once the fuel pump shut off.
I run a scavenge for turbo drain too and the pump shut off as well so oil more than likely went over turbo seals and into exhaust creating smoke
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Heres a link to the log:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3b...ew?usp=sharing
Here are maf readings during idle https://youtu.be/zGd0Gd6dqGg
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Throttle position sensor is a potmeter and can be worn in specific positions. Lik an old amp being crappy when turning volume.
Water in tank/ filter causing a periodical "lock"? Add some alcohol to the tank and rugg.
Just throwing some ideas.
Most else are tried..
Last edited by sto9; 08-12-2017 at 03:35 PM.
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