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Thread: m52 Turbo Build

  1. #651
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    That TPS reading is normal for idle. The fuel pressure is high, it should be 51 psi with vacuum line off FPR and should go down to 43-ish psi with it hooked up. You need to fix this or the tune won't work (unless the tuner has done a bandaid for a bad fuel system but assume that hasn't happened).

    Fix the O2 sensor issue. You can't have issues with probes.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  2. #652
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    Well this sure as hell isn't helping anything :


    Isn't there supposed a crank shaft position sensor there?
    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
    Last edited by 328iFun; 08-08-2017 at 07:48 PM.

  3. #653
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    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    That TPS reading is normal for idle. The fuel pressure is high, it should be 51 psi with vacuum line off FPR and should go down to 43-ish psi with it hooked up. You need to fix this or the tune won't work (unless the tuner has done a bandaid for a bad fuel system but assume that hasn't happened).

    Fix the O2 sensor issue. You can't have issues with probes.
    O2 fixed. Fuel pressure did drop some with vacuum to fpr

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

  4. #654
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iFun View Post
    Well this sure as hell isn't helping anything :

    Isn't there supposed a crank shaft position sensor there?
    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
    No your crank sensor is at the back of the block , drivers side. That location on the timing cover is for obd1 and should be empty for you.

  5. #655
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    F90 M5; E36 M3 Turbo
    It looks like your electric fan is covered in oil.

  6. #656
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajicase View Post
    No your crank sensor is at the back of the block , drivers side. That location on the timing cover is for obd1 and should be empty for you.
    I know,

    I was so happy when I first saw it thought maybe I figured it out.



    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

  7. #657
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    It looks like your electric fan is covered in oil.
    It is, trying to figure out where it is coming from as well.

    May have been when I removed my previous oil drain setup

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

  8. #658
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    I might have a nice turbo kit for sale here soon.

    And I'll take the car in the woods and catch it on fire

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

  9. #659
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iFun View Post
    It is, trying to figure out where it is coming from as well.

    May have been when I removed my previous oil drain setup

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
    Did you have an unbaffled catch can with breather filter in the area or just an open vent hose in that area?

    You are probably close. Just need some experienced in-person help to sort the car. Any members here on your area?

  10. #660
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    1997 328i turbo
    Have u checked on your vent valve ? Not sure of the obd2 throttle body carries that hose from the throttle body to the vent valve


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #661
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    90 325
    What part of VA are you in? I'm in central area, could probably help you out.
    Back into a BMW, this time a track rat....and it won't be BMW powered and no, not a V8 either!
    Couldn't help myself, boosted e36 m52 street car in progress also!

  12. #662
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    Did you have an unbaffled catch can with breather filter in the area or just an open vent hose in that area?

    You are probably close. Just need some experienced in-person help to sort the car. Any members here on your area?

    Pretty much open vent hose.

    Manifold to catch inlet, hose from catch can outlet to vent.

    I thought I was close 5 months ago. Doesn't feel like it. Not sure if anyone is around my area

    - - - Updated - - -

    The only ports on the throttle body for OBDII are coolant ports for 'cooling it' or heating it up in other words. TB shouldn't effect vacuum unless its not securely connected to plenum, boot, or has cracks.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by exvitermini2 View Post
    What part of VA are you in? I'm in central area, could probably help you out.

    I'm right in between Charlottesville and Frederickburg, about 30 minutes from both.

    I'll PM you

    If all else fails you could come over to the watch the fireworks because I will light the car on fire

    - - - Updated - - -

    I guess the next thing ill try today is Crankshaft Position Sensor. It took about 6-7 revolutions for the car to start yesterday but I haven't read or found any threads where the CPS would effect idle just starting.

    I can't believe this thing isn't throwing codes that would indicative of its symptoms

    But what has me wondering is when I first started the car when I didn't have the directions on how to wire the blow through MAF I let the car idle without it plugged it and started up and idled decently. Now the car wont idle at all with the MAF unplugged?
    Last edited by 328iFun; 08-09-2017 at 05:34 AM.

  13. #663
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    Tried searching:

    But the pulse generator or crankshaft position sensor's job is to record crank revolutions and then relay those numbers to the DME. Spark timing is then adjusted based on those numbers. If the numbers are off or incorrect couldn't overall timing be affected and a misfire result?

    Similar to a distributor

    ^ I think this is what's happening

    All the symptoms are there:

    1. Intermittently long cranking times.
    2. Stalling when coming to a stop
    3. Misfire
    4. Erratic idle

    The only thing I don't have is a code, go figure.

    http://www.doityourself.com/stry/war...osition-sensor
    Last edited by 328iFun; 08-09-2017 at 07:13 AM.

  14. #664
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    Would love to get this resolved so we can start talking about bore, pistons, rods, and a engine rebuild for the spare motor I have sitting on a crate

  15. #665
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    Fuel system needs pressure and volume.
    1996 332IS
    Built 3.2
    CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
    Technique Tuning 80# tune.
    1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
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  16. #666
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    Fuel system needs pressure and volume.
    This is true. And with my Fuel Pressure at 55psi, that's means there is less volume and more pressure than needed

    Maybe that's the problem, so many maybes.

  17. #667
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    Maybe the FPR needs swapped out

  18. #668
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    Damn, don't have one to swap out,

    parts store doesn't have them either

  19. #669
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    What fuel pump, FPR and other fuel system components are you using?
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  20. #670
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    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    What fuel pump, FPR and other fuel system components are you using?
    The only thing I upgraded for fuel was the pump. Still on stock rail, lines, and FPR

    Fuel pump is walboro 255

  21. #671
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    The 255 should be ok with the stock lines and FPR. Replace the FPR, it should be at 51 psi.
    '97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.

  22. #672
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    I think at idle, a 255LPH will overrun the stock FPR by a few psi, so I am not sure replacing it will help. Some tuners compensate for this in the tune, but then if you want a 320LPH or 450LPH later, you might need to retune. Or you can use an aftermarket FPR and it takes a little plumbing work, but can handle all the flow you need. I have aftermarket FPR on stock lines and think the stock lines are probably good to about 700 rwhp worth of 91/93 fuel.

  23. #673
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    Quote Originally Posted by chikinhed View Post
    The 255 should be ok with the stock lines and FPR. Replace the FPR, it should be at 51 psi.
    I Like the aftermarket units anyway

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

  24. #674
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    I think at idle, a 255LPH will overrun the stock FPR by a few psi, so I am not sure replacing it will help. Some tuners compensate for this in the tune, but then if you want a 320LPH or 450LPH later, you might need to retune. Or you can use an aftermarket FPR and it takes a little plumbing work, but can handle all the flow you need. I have aftermarket FPR on stock lines and think the stock lines are probably good to about 700 rwhp worth of 91/93 fuel.
    Thats what I read. I wont be making 700hp anytime soon not until I get my motor built.

    If it ain't broke don't fix it

  25. #675
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    I replaced the Crank Position Sensor, still the same (What a joy that was)

    No codes, except o2 heater circuit.

    Fuel pressure is a bit high but it is getting to where it needs to be

    Swapped every coil and every plug, there no vacuum leaks.

    I did get the car to idle smoothly by messing with MAF wiring. It runs a bit rich but it does idle smoothly and doesn't miss. So maybe ill just leave it that way?

    or stuff a rag in the gas tank. Right now taking a break and researching whether or not it illegal to burn a car in Virginia. I would assume it would be okay as long as it were on your property away from other homes, people, etc...
    Last edited by 328iFun; 08-09-2017 at 09:09 PM.

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