m52 Turbo Build

[328iFun]

Interesting found one of codes via Google search:

Camshaft position sensor

https://www.engine-codes.com/p1525_bmw.html


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[Butters Stoch]

Change the o2 as well. But, heater circuit failure won't usually cause drivability issues.

[328iFun]

Change the o2 as well. But, heater circuit failure won't usually cause drivability issues.

Will do

But that is a camshaft code right? Don't wanna go off just Google, you know

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[someguy2800]

Jeez all the issues I see you guys having with the cam sensors I don't even want to hook mine up. Are the obd1 sensors any more reliable?

[328iFun]

Jeez all the issues I see you guys having with the cam sensors I don't even want to hook mine up. Are the obd1 sensors any more reliable?

I wish I had a NV block.....

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[328iFun]

Just did a little more research on the code.

Browsing through forums hoping to find a thread where someone had a similar issue.

Was thinking it could be the camshaft actuator, vanos solenoid? I ordered a camshaft position sensor.

[328iFun]

Holy hell on wheels! $232 for a vanos solenoid on amazon...

Might as well grab a spare motor! my god

[328iFun]

This front clip should have all I need...

$200 with Tranny and wiring harness

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[328iFun]

Swapped out the vanos solenoid and the camshaft position sensor and still the same.

Seems to idle fine until it gets warm or is given gas.

I have no clue

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[bry195]

What is the idle rpm with the iacv unplugged and what is it with plugged in? The electrical plug....

[328iFun]

What is the idle rpm with the iacv unplugged and what is it with plugged in? The electrical plug....

I think I tried that the day before last it hesitated and then idles the same. Ill try this again today though.

I think it may have gotten worse, idle bouncing from 500 down and back up continuously. Afr is lean

I can hear a miss in the car and popping through intake only on cold start. I've had vacuum leaks before but I never heard a miss in them just rough idle. It seems that every time the miss occurs idle then surges.

I would usually have no problem sorting something like out. I don't know but I'm starting to lean towards internal damage. Rings or valve damage, I always assume the worse though.

Maybe I'll try to swap coils out today... this sucks just wanna drive the car. Thousands later and I've driven it maybe 40 miles. What a bummer

Thanks guys



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[dkech]

I think I tried that the day before last it hesitated and then idles the same. Ill try this again today though.

I think it may have gotten worse, idle bouncing from 500 down and back up continuously. Afr is lean

I can hear a miss in the car and popping through intake only on cold start. I've had vacuum leaks before but I never heard a miss in them just rough idle. It seems that every time the miss occurs idle then surges.

I would usually have no problem sorting something like out. I don't know but I'm starting to lean towards internal damage. Rings or valve damage, I always assume the worse though.

Maybe I'll try to swap coils out today... this sucks just wanna drive the car. Thousands later and I've driven it maybe 40 miles. What a bummer

Thanks guys



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what injectors do you have? did it clear after a few minutes if you drive it or if you give it a little throttle for a while?

[328iFun]

what injectors do you have? did it clear after a few minutes if you it or if you give it a little throttle for a while?

Siemens Deka 60lb 107961, I bought them new.

It gets worse when I give the car throttle. If I start the car cold, AFRS are great between 14.1 - 14.8 it revs to 1000 for a second and drops to around 700 and stays, sounds fine. If I give it throttle the car goes lean then idle bounce sporadically but does not exceed 1000 rpms when doing so.

So far I've:

-Cleaned the ICV, checked hoses, tightened everything. I've taken boost completely out of the equation at this point. Checked all -- -vacuum lines.
-Checked Intake Boot
-Removed Intake manifold, checked gaskets, re epoxied all connections, checked TB, sprayed carb cleaner and nothing.
-Unplugged O2 sensor no change, Unplugged MAF car stalls
-Change power source to full pump, same
-Connected car to battery charger to ensure proper voltage
-Swapped out Camshaft Position Sensor
-Swapped out Vanos Solenoid
-Removed and plugged all lines to boost gauge, bov valve, WG, and vacuum capped connections,
-Checked for exhaust leaks that may effect AFR readings

I know the symptoms point to vacuum, but I cant find anything anywhere. Anyone ever have issues with the manifolds cracking or splitting? If need be I can take the m52 manifold and vacuum parts off the spare motor and swap them over?

The car had a slight RPM at idle variance since the day I added boost to it but nothing like this so I didn't worry about tearing the manifold off too quickly, as AFRS where were they needed to be and the car pulled great. Now its progressively gotten worse ever since the car stalled on me while in boost.

I redid the fuel pump wiring to the glove box, well when I took it out for a test spin at about 4,000 rpms the power connection to the pump got hot and came loose, the car stalled and backfired loudly. I reconnected the power, started the car, drove it home staying out of boost. Got it home and it started idling the way it is now. Not sure if that ^ attributed to the problem or not. Would the fuel pump cutting out create a lean condition and cause damage?

In theory, a fuel pump could fail while in boost at anytime anyway though

Car has walboro 255

This is driving me nuts

[dkech]

Siemens Deka 60lb 107961, I bought them new.

It gets worse when I give the car throttle. If I start the car cold, AFRS are great between 14.1 - 14.8 it revs to 1000 for a second and drops to around 700 and stays, sounds fine. If I give it throttle the car goes lean then idle bounce sporadically but does not exceed 1000 rpms when doing so.

So far I've:

-Cleaned the ICV, checked hoses, tightened everything. I've taken boost completely out of the equation at this point. Checked all -- -vacuum lines.
-Checked Intake Boot
-Removed Intake manifold, checked gaskets, re epoxied all connections, checked TB, sprayed carb cleaner and nothing.
-Unplugged O2 sensor no change, Unplugged MAF car stalls
-Change power source to full pump, same
-Connected car to battery charger to ensure proper voltage
-Swapped out Camshaft Position Sensor
-Swapped out Vanos Solenoid
-Removed and plugged all lines to boost gauge, bov valve, WG, and vacuum capped connections,
-Checked for exhaust leaks that may effect AFR readings

I know the symptoms point to vacuum, but I cant find anything anywhere. Anyone ever have issues with the manifolds cracking or splitting? If need be I can take the m52 manifold and vacuum parts off the spare motor and swap them over?

The car had a slight RPM at idle variance since the day I added boost to it but nothing like this so I didn't worry about tearing the manifold off too quickly, as AFRS where were they needed to be and the car pulled great. Now its progressively gotten worse ever since the car stalled on me while in boost.

I redid the fuel pump wiring to the glove box, well when I took it out for a test spin at about 4,000 rpms the power connection to the pump got hot and came loose, the car stalled and backfired loudly. I reconnected the power, started the car, drove it home staying out of boost. Got it home and it started idling the way it is now. Not sure if that ^ attributed to the problem or not. Would the fuel pump cutting out create a lean condition and cause damage?

In theory, a fuel pump could fail while in boost at anytime anyway though

Car has walboro 255

This is driving me nuts

to me it sounds more like a fuel issue and not a vacuum,i would test the fuel pressure as well ,also when the engine is cold it likes to idle at afr lower than 13 usually,so i think for some reason it leans out and this cause the stalling

[328iFun]

What's the best way to test the pressure on these cars?

[chikinhed]

If it's obd2 then there is a schrader valve at the front of the fuel rail that you can connect a fuel pressure gauge to to check the fuel pressure at idle with and without the vacuum line to the FPR connected.

I'd also connect all the vacuum lines, boost gauge, WG and BOV back up and do a boost leak check properly. Refer to the sticky at the top of this section. Carb cleaner type checks don't work on EFI engines.

[328iFun]

If it's obd2 then there is a schrader valve at the front of the fuel rail that you can connect a fuel pressure gauge to to check the fuel pressure at idle with and without the vacuum line to the FPR connected.

I'd also connect all the vacuum lines, boost gauge, WG and BOV back up and do a boost leak check properly. Refer to the sticky at the top of this section. Carb cleaner type checks don't work on EFI engines.

So I think I may be missing something here when I assembled the manifold...

You said vacuum line to FPR? Like this photo:



^I don't have it connected and the nipple manifold on the manifold is vacuum capped. I may have over looked it when I reinstalled the manifold. Could this be the source of the problem?

[chikinhed]

Yes, that will screw everything up,

[328iFun]

Yes, that will screw everything up,

Really?

I thought that was something I could eliminate when going boosted. The car ran pretty good at first. Ill connect it when I get home and see what happens, Is there anything else I should do?

I would be absolutely ecstatic if that fixes the issue. I am weary though.

[chikinhed]

That vacuum line looks skanky, you may want to replace it.

When ever you have an issue when boosted, do the following:

1) Check for codes (datalog if possible)
2) Check fuel pressure
3) Perform a boost leak check
4) Check/adjust spark plug gap

You will find 99% of your issues if you do these.

[328iFun]

That vacuum line looks skanky, you may want to replace it.

When ever you have an issue when boosted, do the following:

1) Check for codes (datalog if possible)
2) Check fuel pressure
3) Perform a boost leak check
4) Check/adjust spark plug gap

You will find 99% of your issues if you do these.

Great advice what psi be at the rail?

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[chikinhed]

Check and fix any codes, obviously.

Fuel pressure at idle with the vacuum line to the FPR removed and plugged at the intake manifold should be 51 psi. This is the base fuel pressure. It will be a bunch lower when the vacuum line is hooked up. I don't want to give you that number because it can vary depending on cams, cam timing, idle speed etc.

Boost leak check using air from a compressor regulated to 20 psi or so and use soapy water to find the air leaks. Very small bubbles are not such a big deal but big bubbles and rushing air are. If the bubbles are before the MAF then you are waisting efficiency and causing higher than necessary back pressure in your exhaust manifold leading to many undesirable affects. If the bubbles are after the MAF you get the same as above in addition to the ECU thinking the air is going into the engine when it isn't and your AFRs will get screwed up.

Your spark plugs should be gapped down to 0.022", sometimes a bit less. As the gap gets bigger the idle may improve slightly but you will get mis fires under boost.

[328iFun]

Check and fix any codes, obviously.

Fuel pressure at idle with the vacuum line to the FPR removed and plugged at the intake manifold should be 51 psi. This is the base fuel pressure. It will be a bunch lower when the vacuum line is hooked up. I don't want to give you that number because it can vary depending on cams, cam timing, idle speed etc.

Boost leak check using air from a compressor regulated to 20 psi or so and use soapy water to find the air leaks. Very small bubbles are not such a big deal but big bubbles and rushing air are. If the bubbles are before the MAF then you are waisting efficiency and causing higher than necessary back pressure in your exhaust manifold leading to many undesirable affects. If the bubbles are after the MAF you get the same as above in addition to the ECU thinking the air is going into the engine when it isn't and your AFRs will get screwed up.

Your spark plugs should be gapped down to 0.022", sometimes a bit less. As the gap gets bigger the idle may improve slightly but you will get mis fires under boost.

First off I really appreciate the help.

The only code I have is:

P0135 o2 sensor heater circuit

Here's a video of psi at cold start and the car idling like it should, around 54ish psi
https://youtu.be/CRnfQ7AvVrI


Here's another video with car warmed and acting stupid, still around 54 psi. So I think we can rule out fuel...?

https://youtu.be/L90IO-hYi4E

Plugs are gapped to 22, I read that awhile back and did that from the start. I swapped plugs/coil packs out still the same.

connected the vacuum to fpr, same

Boost leak I haven't done yet. All I have connect is mag pipe to test vacuum but I can reconnect all piping

Don't know...


I plugged my laptop with scanxl pro here's some data, not sure it would help any. I don't know what to look for :_( video is viewable about 4 seconds in. Has timing advance if that helps any

https://youtu.be/zsP26_Gr7Nk

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[dkech]

First off I really appreciate the help.

The only code I have is:

P0135 o2 sensor heater circuit

Here's a video of psi at cold start and the car idling like it should, around 54ish psi
https://youtu.be/CRnfQ7AvVrI


Here's another video with car warmed and acting stupid, still around 54 psi. So I think we can rule out fuel...?

https://youtu.be/L90IO-hYi4E

Plugs are gapped to 22, I read that awhile back and did that from the start. I swapped plugs/coil packs out still the same.

connected the vacuum to fpr, same

Boost leak I haven't done yet. All I have connect is mag pipe to test vacuum but I can reconnect all piping

Don't know...


I plugged my laptop with scanxl pro here's some data, not sure it would help any. I don't know what to look for :_( video is viewable about 4 seconds in. Has timing advance if that helps any

https://youtu.be/zsP26_Gr7Nk

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throttle position 16%?something is wrong here

[328iFun]

Swap tps?

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