m52 Turbo Build

[pbonsalb]

I have never logged anything in 7 years. Buy a good tune, put the right parts on a properly prepared motor and don't worry. But if you want to buy stuff and log the zeitronix is good and if you want to log and tune the megasquirt is good. I have some software -- bmwlogger but have never used it. I don't really have the time or the need.

As for WB02, I liked the AEM that I ran. I have used a couple of Innovate and they seem to work fine for a while and then eat sensors. The same sensor is used on factory cars and guaranteed for 7 years so it should not fail in a year.

For boost controllers I like the eboost2 but it is expensive now. I bought mine new for $300 in 2010. Not sure what I would use instead. A manual boost controller is inexpensive and effective.

[328iFun]

My $0.02 is to bit the bullet and buy a Zetronix kit.
I have had AEM, plx, and innovate.
Buying the zetronix kit starts a data logging system. Being able to log really helps not only seeing where your at, but help diag problems.
Rpm, TPS, AFR, boost, fuel pressure, and also a user (I log methanol injection). Start out with a basic kit. Then add over time.
Tapping into the factory harness is simple as hell.

So many different opinions on this

How's installation? pretty straight forward?

Which one do you recommend?

[328iFun]

assuming this one:

http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.shtml

?

[Butters Stoch]

assuming this one:

http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.shtml

?

Correct.

[328iFun]

Correct.

Thanks.

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Now im on the look out for a tablet mount for e36. And a tablet that has a serial port, who uses DB9 anymore anyway?

[328iFun]

Good Morning Everyone,

Newest item on agenda: welding bungs/flanges for Lambda, BOV, MAF, etc...

I'm toying around with the idea of just buying a welder doing it myself. Would have to be able to do aluminum though... Fairly new to welding, did a little in high school. But I'm thinking it would be more cost effective too purchase my own welder - This way I can make any changes as needed and fabricate as I please.

A guy I work with does some welding and he was thinking that this unit would be sufficient:

https://www.amazon.com/Lotos-MIG140-...elder+aluminum

Any recommendations? I don't want to spend fortune but if its cheaper for me do myself then paying some else than I'm all for it. Always a plus to learn something new as well.

What price range am I looking at to have someone do all of this work for me vs purchasing a welding machine?

Thanks for all the help on this project, getting fairly close to throwing a bucket in the car and driving it

[someguy2800]

That looks to be made by the same place as the eastwood welders. I have an eastwood 140 mig and its workable but its a piece of junk. I have had to take it apart and bodge it back together several times. The wording on that advertisement is kind of deceptive, you will need to buy the additional spool gun to be able to weld aluminum. Mig welding aluminum is not very desirable It is very difficult and doesn't really work on thin tubing. I would just find a used mig or tig welder like a miller. Mig welding steel is as easy as it gets. You can always make your charge piping out of steel and paint it or get it powder coated.

[328iFun]

Thanks for the advice.

Aluminum is so much easier to work with before welding. Might just take the elbow to shop have them weld the 2 flanges. Shouldn't be too expensive.

Onto exhaust, may have made a mistake with the 3 5/8 exhaust housing. Pretty sure that size piping isn't going to fit. Probably have to reduce it 3" or 2.5.

Not to mention, which I think should have been one of the MOST easy parts of the project...

Air Filter.

I've tried fitting 2 through the limited space that I have to no avail. I was able to bend the K&N it fit width wise but was too long in height. I then tried a cone filter half the size of the K&N but it had steel caging around the filter so I couldn't get it too fit. So it looks like in order to change a filter I'm going to have to remove oil lines, remove exhaust, remove turbo.

Unless:

I use something like this, which Im about 90% will fit
https://www.spectreperformance.com/c...rs-inline-cone

Yeah, its sceptre (I know) unless anyone knows of any better similar types.

[Loki Motorsport]

Not sure if it will help, as I don't know what sort of dimensions you are dealing with. I run this on my top mount setup. Its pretty stubby. Just trying to throw an option out there!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-10930

[328iFun]

Not sure if it will help, as I don't know what sort of dimensions you are dealing with. I run this on my top mount setup. Its pretty stubby. Just trying to throw an option out there!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-10930

Looks like a legit filter. I got the conical filter I posted last to fit pretty well. Only concern is that its kind of small.

Only other way I think with a normal size filter is to drop the turbo... which I really don't feel like doing but we'll see what happens.

Times like these I wish would have went top mount.

[someguy2800]

Times like these I wish would have went top mount.

So you could have no filter at all because the turbo is an inch from the headlight?

[328iFun]

So you could have no filter at all because the turbo is an inch from the headlight?

Nope, not just that.

Back is starting to hurt from getting underneath the car, lol. Also, turbo bolts are so tight that it would probably take me about hour of cussing to get them off and an hour of cussing to get them back on. I mean this thing is tucked but it does fit extremely well, I will say that. SPA was definitely the way to go, thank you guys for the recommendation.

I'm sure ill be happy I went bottom mount when out driving on a 90 degree + weather

How do you feel about the conical air filter I posted earlier someguy? Do you think it will breathe well enough?

Side Notes:

AEM Meth kit will be here today! Pretty excited about that. I've read that its not the most reliable setup but I don't plan on using meth to raise boost levels. Should help cool the intake down with the turbo/filter being directly underneath the exhaust manifold and give me a little piece of mind.

I'm only using 1 nozzle so I suppose the best place to put is in the intake boot somewhere. Not sure if I would get good results by tapping the manifold in a center location, not sure how well the mist will be distributed that way.

Other things I've completed:

3" down pipe mocked up, glad I don't have to run <2.5" piping - 3" exhaust guys, are you running a res? VA doesn't test exhaust gasses so I could get away with something that resembles a cat as long as there is a bung and o2 sensor somewhere near it. Any recommendations? I was thinking of doing a glass pack or reusing my Borla muffler? Any suggestions here? So I can get this stuff ordered
Charge Pipe cut out for BOV, BTMAF
I really want to remove smog pump assembly but I don't want get gigged at inspection for it missing. I wonder if they'd notice?

Getting so close I can taste it =

[Loki Motorsport]

So you could have no filter at all because the turbo is an inch from the headlight?

Top mount problems 101 right here... Exhibit "A" lol
This is one of the things that infuriated me the most about this build, to the point where I wanted to put the filter in a blender.
I ended up using a mother forking 45* elbow off the inlet, and a section of pipe to put the filter down behind the front bumper.

[someguy2800]

I have no experience with spectre filters but it looks like a cork to me.

[Butters Stoch]

I like this op is getting things done. Must be young and have energy.

[NOTORIOUS VR]

I like this op is getting things done. Must be young and have energy.

lol

[328iFun]

I'm not into spectre and its prob the least quality item in the build but it works and If I can replace it without removing everything, then hey, I'm all for it. There might be a better one out there somewhere, not sure. A smaller filter may work as long as It bends or flexes easily without being damaged.


28 - not so young...

Energy = Maybe a little. I've been in my garage everyday since this thread has started. This project is something I've always wanted to do since I've owned the car but I didn't have the funds when I was younger. Its pretty awesome to see it come together and I'm sure I'll get great satisfaction out of driving the car when its done.

Looking to source a m52b28 or > to slowly build up. Its seem most of everyone on here goes with low comp pistons/rods/etc eventually. This way I can slowly work on it while I enjoy what I have now

[Butters Stoch]

Most salvage yards have M52's for around $250-350
Do yourself a favor and ask for the trans too. Offer them $500 for engine/trans. Always have a spare trans with turbo e36

[328iFun]

Most salvage yards have M52's for around $250-350
Do yourself a favor and ask for the trans too. Offer them $500 for engine/trans. Always have a spare trans with turbo e36

I do have a salvage yard close by might have to do that

[Loki Motorsport]

Most salvage yards have M52's for around $250-350
Do yourself a favor and ask for the trans too. Offer them $500 for engine/trans. Always have a spare trans with turbo e36

Aren't ZF's pretty darn stout? I haven't had any issues with mine yet at 245K miles.. OE Trans. The 1-2 mesh feels a little disastered, but it never pops out of gear or anything! Alot of the car's past year has been drifting as well.

[pbonsalb]

Depends on how much power you have, how the power arrives, how you drive, whether you drag race. Many of us have broken zf320. A few have gone to vetrsg 420g or zf 6 speeds that can take more torque, a few have gone to domestic manual trans like the t56 magnum, and a few have gone to domestic automatics like the c4.

[hakentt]

Ok at least you are making some progress, respect.

[328iFun]

Depends on how much power you have, how the power arrives, how you drive, whether you drag race. Many of us have broken zf320. A few have gone to vetrsg 420g or zf 6 speeds that can take more torque, a few have gone to domestic manual trans like the t56 magnum, and a few have gone to domestic automatics like the c4.

AR .53 should be more low end

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Ok at least you are making some progress, respect.

Thanks,

All that is really left is a tuning package (injectors, MAF) connect piping, and monitoring hardware. Also have to replace dip stick o-ring as its leaking pretty badly.

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I'm going to post pics of my scavenge/oil return setup at some point, which is working great btw. Didn't have to tap any part of the engine.

Drain from turbo -> Check valve before first SP inlet -> tubing to second s pump on the upper part of motor near intake manifold -> returned to cylinder head, vanos sprocket bolt replaced with flanged bolt. 2 pumps, I'll have some redundancy in case one decides to bite the dust.

and I got to get one of these because I had an excuse



Lincoln 180, not too shabby

[328iFun]

Today was an excellent day. Got everything buttoned up, fresh oil, cooling system bled, intercooler/piping installed, and confirmed no HG/head issues. Boost is not too far away...

Been awhile since I uploaded some pics:

Second SP, First SP is intalled where Raj recommended

[Loki Motorsport]

How did you end up mounting your intercooler? Trying to figure out a better way to do mine, and yours looks nice and clean!