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Thread: m52 Turbo Build

  1. #1676
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iFun View Post
    Lol,

    Yeah, the first time I took he failed it because of the power steering clamps, leaking fluid and the SRS steering wheel was removed. Fixed the leak and put the OEM wheel back on, car sat at his shop for 4 days before he even looked at it.
    Then tried to fail it because the wheels apparently are sticking out too far from the fenders so I removed the spacers at his shop and it passed.

    3,000 or so miles on the car, still on a 7 PSI spring with an EBC. I've hit 14 PSI under heavy load but it doesn't hit as hard with the 7lb spring

    - - - Updated - - -



    Nice, luckily in my area we don't have emission testing (yet) otherwise I'd be screwed. By the time they enforce here my car will be an antique and I won't have to get it inspected at all, 2 years and counting.
    That antique privilege can't come soon enough. Haven't had safety inspection for a couple of years now for this very reason. It also helps that we don't have emissions in our side of town and cops have more important things to worry about....

  2. #1677
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    97' m52 turbo
    Quote Originally Posted by bmw328m52 View Post
    That antique privilege can't come soon enough. Haven't had safety inspection for a couple of years now for this very reason. It also helps that we don't have emissions in our side of town and cops have more important things to worry about....
    +1

  3. #1678
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    Guys, question:

    I have a second AEM Meth Nozzle sitting in my garage with no use... Was thinking about connecting it somewhere in the turbo intake to help cool it down. I already have 1 nozzle in the intake boot but was thinking having a second one installed would help cool the turbo.

    My question is where should the nozzle be placed for best effect? Weld a bung in the piping close to turbo, in the middle of the air filter, or right after the air filter?

    or use another one of these in my silicone bend:


  4. #1679
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    Pretty sure I had a bit too much fun today with a buddy... Burnouts and what not.

    75% positive my clutch is gone at about 3k+ miles, gripforce stage 3.

    Car wont move, had to get a tow home. Guess I'll be pulling the trans and investigating :-(

    If it is the clutch, what do you guys recommend for a replacement ?
    Last edited by 328iFun; 07-31-2018 at 11:01 PM.

  5. #1680
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    97' m52 turbo
    Little update for everyone,

    Went ahead and ordered and installed a lift, makes life SOOO much easier. I recommend MaxJax by Danmar; Good quality and even better customer service. Had the clutch removed in about 45 minutes or so.


    Should I be good reusing my flywheel and pressure plate? Clutch is toast, pics below








    Gripforce Stage 3 didn't hold up too well. Lasted me maybe 2,000 miles or so



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    Last edited by 328iFun; 09-22-2018 at 06:26 PM.

  6. #1681
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    Apr 2006
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    If you put another ceramic puck disc in it will probably bed and work again for awhile, but any other friction material is going to die a fast death riding on those two. Mabey try a clutchnet disc.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  7. #1682
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    went ahead an ordered another ceramic clutch kit

  8. #1683
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    Raleigh, NC
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    1998 M3 643whp
    It is a struggle to get 6 puck discs to last more than 15k miles in any car. They require you to slip it so much to leave smoothly without chatter, and then they don't have much wear material vs a solid disc.

    It looks like one of your pucks disintegrated causing the premature failure.

  9. #1684
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    Quote Originally Posted by wgknestrick View Post
    It is a struggle to get 6 puck discs to last more than 15k miles in any car. They require you to slip it so much to leave smoothly without chatter, and then they don't have much wear material vs a solid disc.

    It looks like one of your pucks disintegrated causing the premature failure.
    15k isn't much. But isnt terrible as long as the fw and pressure plate remain good... not in my case though

    Mine was a result of several, and I mean several long burnouts one after another. Car wouldn't even move afterwords... I had fun so it's all good.

    Thinking about signing up for some technical driving courses nearby. There's no where around my area where I can and really get a feel for the car

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  10. #1685
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    A normal stock organic clutch works by creating an adhesion between the disc and friction surface just like a brake pad. It doposites a polymer film onto the flywheel surface which sticks to itself. Everything in the disc is softer than the flywheel so the friction surface doesn’t wear out, the disc does. A ceramic disc is much harder than the iron flywheel and pressure plate and it makes its friction by actually digging into the friction surface like tire studs on ice. It’s the equivalent of using a grinding wheel as a clutch disc. With a ceramic clutch the flywheel, pressure plate, and disc are all consumbles. Your new pressure plate and flywheel you ordered will also be going in the garbage in a year or two.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  11. #1686
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    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    A normal stock organic clutch works by creating an adhesion between the disc and friction surface just like a brake pad. It doposites a polymer film onto the flywheel surface which sticks to itself. Everything in the disc is softer than the flywheel so the friction surface doesn’t wear out, the disc does. A ceramic disc is much harder than the iron flywheel and pressure plate and it makes its friction by actually digging into the friction surface like tire studs on ice. It’s the equivalent of using a grinding wheel as a clutch disc. With a ceramic clutch the flywheel, pressure plate, and disc are all consumbles. Your new pressure plate and flywheel you ordered will also be going in the garbage in a year or two.
    Makes sense.

    I guess I'll have to get a better job

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  12. #1687
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    Ordered this setup this go around.

    Was stage 3 previously, says this one is stage 4 but looks the same as the 3 to me?

    Not sure what would make it a 4

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  13. #1688
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    Looks to be an unsprung clutch disc. Would not recommend, as that will put significantly more shock load on the drivetrain. You'll start breaking trannys namely, with maybe a driveshaft or axle too. That's pretty much the only difference between most of the ebay stage 3 and 4 kits. Spring vs unsprung.
    Quote Originally Posted by 328iFun View Post
    Ordered this setup this go around.

    Was stage 3 previously, says this one is stage 4 but looks the same as the 3 to me?

    Not sure what would make it a 4

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  14. #1689
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    friction surface and torque ratings are the same. Stage 3 is sprung while Stage 4 is unsprung. I think most would agree that a sprung clutch is better for the street. Unsprung when full track car.

  15. #1690
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    Ready see how this unsprung clutch feels...

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  16. #1691
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    Got the car reassembled and just took her out. Felt great to drive it again, was sitting for about 3 months.

    How many miles do you all recommend for 'breaking-in' a ceramic clutch? There was no recommendation in the directions

  17. #1692
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iFun View Post
    Got the car reassembled and just took her out. Felt great to drive it again, was sitting for about 3 months.

    How many miles do you all recommend for 'breaking-in' a ceramic clutch? There was no recommendation in the directions
    Most manufacturers say like 750mi is best but Atleast 500. I personally have never made it over about 5.....


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    1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53

  18. #1693
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    End of the driveway.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  19. #1694
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    Most I've ever gone is like 40 miles lol. Also fx stage 3 and still no clutch slippin.

  20. #1695
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    Yeah...

    I cant handle babying it much longer. Made it about 30 miles so far

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  21. #1696
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    Let’r rip tater chip.


    86 325es, 2.8L m50, S476sxe, ProEFI 128 ecu, e85, solid rear axle, TH400 trans, 28x10.5w slicks, zip ties, popsicle sticks, tape
    best time 9.06 @ 151.8 mph, best 60 foot 1.30

  22. #1697
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    Quote Originally Posted by someguy2800 View Post
    Let’r rip tater chip.
    Do it for Dale!

  23. #1698
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    Quote Originally Posted by 328iFun View Post
    Yeah...

    I cant handle babying it much longer. Made it about 30 miles so far

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    SEND ITTTT

  24. #1699
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    Could help my self......



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    Last edited by 328iFun; 10-02-2018 at 08:35 PM.

  25. #1700
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    F-it...!


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    Last edited by 328iFun; 01-18-2019 at 12:30 PM.

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