thing sounds awesome!
you have your EBC set to 9, and you reach 12?
so, you experience some boost creep I think.
Do you use the SPA wastegate piping with a 38mm?
It was 18 degrees this morning, the turbo was screaming... I work with guy who lives on my road and the other day he was like:
"Do you drive green BMW, turbocharged? And I was like maybe, why? (I automatically knew he was going to have a noise complaint). That thing sounds like F1 when your going up the hill near my house, I was outside and was like good god".
But anyway, although I like the cold weather for the cars sake, I'm hoping the Snow holds off as I have a few side jobs this weekend... Last time I checked we're supposed to get 5 inches or so... Not to bad
Thanks, I did the exhaust differently than what you typically see on here. I got tired of trying to fit a 3" DP" so I made 2.5" DP that I welded directly to a gutted catalytic converter (which is about 4" diameter internally). Right after the converter is a Y Pipe, single 2.5" inlet to dual 2.5" outlets. I then ran (2) 2.5" pipes to the rear of the car. One pipe is muffled with a flow master (I think) and the other is open. So the turbo spools great and the car has a pretty cool sound. Wastegate is also open
Overboost was set to kick on at 8 PSI in the video but peak boost hit 10. With overboost set to 7 I can hit 14 PSI at wide open throttle due to back pressure. Turbo hot side is a .58, low-mid range power is great. If I don't dog the car boost control works great
SPA dump tube to 38MM Turbo Smart Ultra Gate 7 psi spring currently
Zack and I think the car is at the perfect power level
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-11-2019 at 10:12 AM.
Is ATPTurbo a good brand to get oil supply lines from? Or is there a better source? I would like to get most oil related things from rallyroad but if they don't have it I'll need an alternative
Just make your own:
-4 AN PTFE Steel Hose, 1/8th to - 4 AN earls straight fitting (for turbo), and then 2 90 degree -4 an hose-end fittings.
If your going rally road and want to run an easy oil pressure gauge in addition to tapping the vanos for feed, use this:
https://rallyroad.net/products/oil-g...ribution-block
- - - Updated - - -
Here's the significant others first time driving the E36... She hates it but loves it
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-11-2019 at 10:40 AM.
I've seen the oil distribution block, thank you though
What do you think about these?
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3480
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...4-bl/overview/ x2
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Earls...er,146841.html
Great. I'll teach myself how to make the fittings and whatnot. I have my manifold and turbo but haven't mocked anything up. I can't decide between getting oil from the VANOS banjo bolt (https://rallyroad.net/products/vanos...lsupplyfitting) or oil filter pressure sensor (https://rallyroad.net/products/oilfeedadapterblock). I think I'm going to go with the VANOS one because it requires less hose and it'll look cleaner
Will I need an oil restrictor since I'm using a journal bearing turbo? I've been trying to do some research on it but most stuff is for ball bearing turbos which do need it. I'm thinking -4AN feed and -12AN draining back to the oil pan bolt
Last edited by armenh7; 01-11-2019 at 01:11 PM.
Sounds like an interesting setup
But also in the video you uploaded today, It sounds really good!
I'm re-doing my exhaust to a Full 3 inch form a 2,5inc now, I needed to go at the passenger side footwell with a hammer to get it done.
My GT28 was simply to small and couldn't get my boost under control.
going for an HX35 on an SPA manifold, with 44,5mm wastegate piping to a 45mm turbosmart.
going to port the hole in the SPA to 40mm, and hopefully that way I will be able to control my boost well enough.
comparing it to your setup: I should do just fine. only I am recirculating, so fingers crossed.
on a sidenote, any Idea what the pressure in the lower Vanos oil feed line is?
How far off are you on your target boost? Spiking that bad? What about WOT?
The pressure varies of course, higher when cold, lower when warm.
Typically sits around 20 psi at idle when warm. 60 cold idle, 70-80 under load cold. 58-60 warm under load
Oil pressure needle is usually symmetrical with RPM and pretty spot on, as expected
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Thats really up to you and your setup. If your bottom or top mount. Better to get a foot or two more just to be on the safe side. But that PTFE stuff is expensive too
Last edited by 328iFun; 01-11-2019 at 02:59 PM.
yes, pretty far of. with my internally gated GT28, 4psi waste gate spring, i had peakes of 18psi down low with my EBC (innovate SCG) set to 100% WG duty, theoratically target boost was 11psi.
this happened really low, and i fixed it with using a mechanical boost controller set to 12psi parrellel to the EBC.
Boost tappered down after 5k RPM to 8psi, all the way down to 6psi at 6,8k RPM.
lots of torque down low, no power up top due to back pressure. setup was build by mosselman for ~6psi.
I spent to much time here, and because of all the forced induction build threads, even 14psi sounds like baby boost now
It was rubbish because i wanted to much.
My friend who owns a S2000 said it didn't feel any faster than his honda.
that was it, time for a change
The 4G36T, SR20 and others that i have read about using Holsets have problems with the oil return not being big enough.
but those guys see 100psi at WOT where they get their oil feed from. thanks for the info!
Last edited by et89; 01-11-2019 at 05:36 PM.
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Your right...
Log splitter, got left out in the rain. Now it wont start. Replaced carb, found rust in the bowl of the original carb. Fresh gas, tried starting on carb cleaner, nothing. Swapped plugs, etc... tried all the basic stuff. Bypassed on/off switch. All I get is backfire.
Bad timing, about to get some snow here too. Power usually goes out!
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Yes
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This log splitter always works, unfortunately
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Last edited by 328iFun; 01-12-2019 at 12:34 PM.
This.
Also, check the bowl screw/bolt on the bottom of the float bowl. If it’s screwed in too tight, gas won’t flow up into the main jet.
Took my pressure washer carb (tecumseh engine) apart last year to clean it, and I couldn’t figure out why it wouldn’t run for shit after a few shots of carb cleaner. Turned out to be the bolt at the bottom. Small engines are awesome when they work right, but a pain when they don’t.
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Last edited by 328iFun; 01-18-2019 at 11:13 AM.
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