m52 Turbo Build

[pbonsalb]

NPT plug if one will fit -- they typically come in 1/8ths so maybe 1/4 or 3/8? There are also expanding seal plugs. You could also pull the TB only, reach in, put a bolt with a washer and some JB Weld through the inside, put a washer and a nut on the outside. If worried about the nut coming loose and the bolt going into the motor, use a lock nut or even drill the bolt and washer and wire tie or something like that. I would not pull the manifold to fix this.

[328iFun]

This is the second manifold I've done... Looks a bit better than my first one

Was thinking about putting a bolt inside, maybe loctite as well. I'd be paranoid as hell though even though it couldn't ring loose.

Ill get this hole patched up and I shouldn't have any other leaks and maybe turn the knob on the controller this weekend.

Started reading Maxmum PSI, should have read it before I started the build. But it is a damn good read!

[328iFun]

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[328iFun]

Thanks for the help everyone

Just have a small little leak at another fitting. Was present at like 27 psi. Stock motor won't ever run this much so I don't think it matters.

I think I'll be happy with good timing and 12-14 psi on a stock motor with copper spacer/cut ring. Maybe I'll get brave and run the meth kit I have installed eventually



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[328iFun]

If you were running a scavenge pump (like I am) and a few other people here.

What could you install to know that the pump is running adequately or even at all? I mean your gonna know that its not running as soon as you see smoke pouring out of your exhaust (ask me how I know).

- I was thinking maybe some kind of pressure switch in the oil return line somewhere after the pump. This would show positive pressure via a gauge when the pump is returning oil to the pan.

Also,

what gauges do you most of you guys/gals run? What do you think is the most important? Oil pressure? Temp Gauge? etc... As of right now I have nothing but stock stuff but would like to install a few for piece of mind. I think oil pressure would be very important considering I'm running a spump.

What gauges are the easiest to install? I've never installed any aftermarket before

Anyone have a decent suspension setup for sale? My JOM junk coil-overs are frozen on the setting I had them on like 3 years ago. Which is way to low to running 5 series offset style 32's and 245's. Also way to low since the hot side charge pipe is under the subframe.



Note: I think this car is very close to being 'officially' on the road.

[vollosso]

I dont think a pressure sensor would do anything. After oil passes the bearing pressure drops to zero.

The front and rear seal are like piston rings. If oil is even sitting on these rings you will have leakage. Any pressure and you will have a ton of leakage.

Leakage out the front can be made worse by vacuum. A light negative pressure will suck oil through this piston ring.

Here is a picture i quickly marked up, red being pressure feed. See how large the chamber gets?


I would check the down pipe and charge pipe to see if its working adequately.

To see if the pump is working at all you could measure amperage with a kinda dummy light.

Long explanation but the end result is i dont think you could measure pressure to see if its working adequately. If your pipes are dry then its working hah.

I can always be wrong. Just my thoughts. Its nice to think in english.


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[someguy2800]

I would expect if the scavenge pump stopped working that it would build positive pressure in the drain pretty quickly since it would have to push it through the scavenge pump. I think something like a 2psi Hobbs switch going to a light would do it, though I personally would just invest my time and money into a better pump.

[vollosso]

I would expect if the scavenge pump stopped working that it would build positive pressure in the drain pretty quickly since it would have to push it through the scavenge pump. I think something like a 2psi Hobbs switch going to a light would do it, though I personally would just invest my time and money into a better pump.

Yeah agreed.

The pressure wont tell you how well it is working.. only if it works or not.


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[328iFun]

Yes ^

That works for me.

The pump stopped working because the butt connector came loose.

I've since soldered and shrink tubed the connectors. And Theres no smoke (after I took it for a drive and burnt the remaining out of the exhaust)

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[328iFun]

This pump has been working great, zero smoke.

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[328iFun]

With that said,

While doing research for the build, long before I started it. I had read that you have to properly vent the crank case to avoid oil leaking oil pan gasket, etc...

I put a little air filter on the vent valve on the valve cover. I've had an slight oil leaking dripping onto the cardboard I put underneath the car. I found that the cam position sensor was leaking, tightened it. Fixed.

Cleaned all the oil up but theirs still a small leak from what appears to be coming from one of the oil pan bolts under neath the car.

How much venting is really needed? I don't recall the car leaking oil pre-turbo.

Here's a vid of the cam sensor leaking, it was pretty significant. I also think the scavenge pump may attributing as well? It is draining back into CCV tube on dipstick



And here's a picture of the little filter on my valve vent

[bry195]

If you want to see how well your drain is flowing (not continuously monitor) in situ There is a -10 male/female moisture sight glass that can be screwed inline of the drain.

If the drain is setup properly then limit on pressure is a limit on flow (oil). Turbosmart has an oil pressure regulator for BB turbos that seems to make sense (maybe not). Has anyone ran it yet?

[328iFun]

Car is still smoking like a mofo

Started the car after it sat for a few days and it smoked the garage out

Took the car out and smoked slightly less while driving. Not nearly as much smoke at idle unless I came to stop after WOT.

I let the car sit car idle in the garage after driving it for awhile and the smoke was barely noticeable while at idle and revved.

Not sure, hopefully the turbo seals didn't go when the pump wasn't working... Or the pumps not keeping up

There was zero smoke prior.

[jakeE36325]

When the oil is cold the pump must not be able to keep up. Maybe you need a collector in the drain line before the scavenge pump?

[328iFun]

When the oil is cold the pump must not be able to keep up. Maybe you need a collector in the drain line before the scavenge pump?

I was thinking that one of those wouldn't hurt,

suggestions?

[Butters Stoch]

I was thinking that one of those wouldn't hurt,

suggestions?

Another thing is you want to run your pump a little bit after shutdown. I run mine for 20-30seconds or so. Do you have your drain vented ?

[pbonsalb]

I have not seen a picture of your scavenge. The flow needs to be downhill from there to the pump. The pump should be located on the drivers side, with the head mounted down. That way the distance back to the pan, which is uphill since you are returning to the dipstick tube, is as short as possible and the drainback towards the turbo is not bad. When you shut down, in addition to the scavenge pump turning off, oil drains down the feed line and into and through the turbo. This is worse with journal bearing turbos than with ball bearing turbos.

I think on start up you have too much oil. A reservoir would help. Check valve(s) would help. A pump timer would help. Done right scavenge pumps work well. I ran one with no issues for 7 years. I prefer the simplicity of gravity drain if that is an option, though. I changed my manifold and am now gravity drain.

[jakeE36325]

I y'd my 10an drain line about 6" from the turbo and ran it to an abs reservoir with a little vent filter. We will see how it works when I get to drive the car but so far idling cold I don't have any smoke. However I'm gravity draining.
IMG_0831.jpg

[rajicase]

I don't have a vent in my scavenge pump lines. No smoke. I also run 8an lines to and from pump.

[vollosso]

Listen to phil.. good advice here.

Make sure the pump is below drain.

You could install a check valve with a light crack pressure inline for the turbo. This prevents filling after the car is off.

You can put the pump on a timer relay or try and wait after the car is off and cycle the pump again.

What pump are you running? I had zero issues with mine when i ran one, it just takes a bit if planning.





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[328iFun]

Another thing is you want to run your pump a little bit after shutdown. I run mine for 20-30seconds or so. Do you have your drain vented ?

Yes,

I always run the pump after shutdown for about a minute. Or until I hear the pump quiet down and its not moving anymore oil. It is not vented

[vollosso]

Yes,

I always run the pump after shutdown for about a minute. Or until I hear the pump quiet down and its not moving anymore oil

If your doing this then the problem is the location (height) of the pump versus the pan.

The pump clears the oil from the turbo and feed line (within the minute) so the oil must be moving back to the turbo somehow. Or something else is amiss.

My pump i would run for <5s and had no oil issues. Returned to the bottom of the oil pan too.


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[328iFun]

I have not seen a picture of your scavenge. The flow needs to be downhill from there to the pump. The pump should be located on the drivers side, with the head mounted down. That way the distance back to the pan, which is uphill since you are returning to the dipstick tube, is as short as possible and the drainback towards the turbo is not bad. When you shut down, in addition to the scavenge pump turning off, oil drains down the feed line and into and through the turbo. This is worse with journal bearing turbos than with ball bearing turbos.

I think on start up you have too much oil. A reservoir would help. Check valve(s) would help. A pump timer would help. Done right scavenge pumps work well. I ran one with no issues for 7 years. I prefer the simplicity of gravity drain if that is an option, though. I changed my manifold and am now gravity drain.

I'm unable to take a pics right now but I did make a diagram. And the angles in the diagram are pretty close to how I have them on the car. I have the pump mounted to xbrace, passenges side, facing down. Downward angle from turbo to pump feed. Dipstick tube is rotated backwards so the CCV drain is facing pump. I always run the pump for 1-2 minutes after I turn the engine off. However, I have left this pump on several times for extended periods as I have forgotten it was on. I will end up doing a timer eventually.

This setup worked great, no smoke at all. And I didn't have to run the pump long after shutdown before it started smoking like this.

Here's what happened fully, it may give everyone some insight as to if the turbo seals have gone or not. I'm not sure how well they hold up:

1. started the car pulled it out of garage.
2. got to the end of my drive and noticed a ton of smoke coming out of the exhaust.
3. turning around and pulled the car right back into the garage.
4. noticed that the pump was not turning on.
(it'd say from the end of my drive to my garage is maybe 360-400ft in length)



I did my setup very similar to rajicase he sent me pics on how his was set up awhile back. And I think I'm running the same pump as him.

Here's the pump:



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-12v-...JX5pzJ&vxp=mtr

Just hoping that I didn't kill the turbo seals. I know theres quite a bit of oil pressure at idle and if it were to build up in the turbo because it wasn't draining properly than I could see it happening.

[328iFun]

I went ahead and checked compression again last night, I like to do it every once in awhile anyway to see how the engines holding up:

I think I was around

7-8 revolutions car warm right before halfway mark.

Cyl 1 - 149-150
Cyl 2 - 145-146
Cyl 3 - 149-150
Cyl 4 - 149-150
Cyl 5 - 149-150
Cyl 6 - 149-150

[vollosso]

Turbo seals are like piston rings. You cannot really kill them like this. The only way they die is from excessive wear.


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