1st post! And, bringing a US>Canada '01 M Roadster back to the US

[M'kay]

Hello hello, and what a proud day it is for me to post my first-ever thread to the Bimmerforums. If all goes to plan, I will actually have a Bimmer to rhapsodize about for decades to come right here.

However, at the moment, the car I am looking at is currently in Canada and, as another first, I am looking at how I would re-naturalize it back to Seattle. Here is the car when it was for sale in the US:

http://www.mroadsterbuyersguide.com/...ListingID=2551

It was originally purchased in Texas and lived there until '13 when a fellow purchased/imported it up to Canada. He's now selling it and we're working out the details of purchase, as well as how I am going to handle this whole duty/letter of conformity matter. From my understanding BMW is gouging enthusiasts with a $500 fee going from the US to Canada, and quite possibly the chance of a 5% duty since the car has a "W" prefix in the VIN which (incorrectly) denotes Germany as the country of original rather than actual South Carolina plant. I searched the forums tirelessly since I didn't want to post a previously answered question, however I couldn't find details from anyone who has imported a US-sold car from Canada back to the US. I've got an email into BMW US and the stopwatch is ticking until they respond, hopefully telling me that since the car originated in America there is no need for any of the usual freshly inbound fees or penalties, but I haven't had any luck reaching anyone at the port or elsewhere.

Anyone here have any experience, or recommendations, or words of advice?

[MauiM3Mania]

Welcome! S54 in a small package. You might want to get the VANOS checked out. It is something that has been known to go bad with not good results.

Enjoy!

[awdonald]

I think you should be talking with US customs, not BMW.

[beshannon]

https://www.cbp.gov/trade/basic-impo.../importing-car

[M'kay]

Thanks for the input, everyone. I have been attempting to reach out to the US Customs all this week and haven't had any luck over email or phone (specifically, the Blaine outpost nearest to me and Vancouver), but I'm sure they're in no rush to respond. Hopefully I can get some clarity from them soon, and I'll try the main number beshannon mentioned above today (thanks!).

Thanks for the welcoming MauiM3Mania, and that's a great tip. I am planning to have the car mechanically inspected when I finally get a chance to see it, likely the weekend after next as that is when my Letter of Conformity should arrive from BMW. I actually managed to receive this letter free of charge, or so they claimed - we shall see what if anything actually arrives in 10 business days. Once it has, I'll be headed northbound and have a PPI arranged.

The challenge is that there are no BMW dealers nearby to inspect it, so I am going to have to rely on this indie shop: http://www.skauto.ca. Also, the S54 was recently replaced and only has around 7k miles on it so far, which I am hoping also means the VANOS will be in good shape, but not sure if miles is a major factor. Think an indie place like this would be able to assess the state of the VANOS and the rest of the car for that matter, or should I insist on a dealership?

[MauiM3Mania]

If I were to have a PPI done on a car, it likely wouldn't be the dealer. Try to find a reputable euro indie that knows BMWs.

[BimmerBreaker]

Looks like someone is in a similar situation to you right now: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ving-US-origin

There is no easy answer here because we KNOW the Z3's were produced in the USA, but a substantial part of the VIN represents the car as being built in Germany. Regardless of what you can show a person, when they input that VIN into a computer the W is going to denote German-built. It'll be tough to avoid the fees.

Importing it will be easy though... sometimes a new gauge cluster (though maybe not in this case), amber lights or lights original to the car, not really a whole lot you need to change... your best bet for finding what to change about the car to make it US-legal would be to look at what people do when they import cars to Canada from the US and basically just make sure it's all been "reversed". A friend of mine sold an M roady up to Canada and he had to add DRL's and get a letter from BMW. I don't think there were any other changes he had to make (his was an S52, so VIN-wise much easier to work with regarding Customs).

[lapoune]

Importing it will be easy though... sometimes a new gauge cluster (though maybe not in this case), amber lights or lights original to the car, not really a whole lot you need to change... your best bet for finding what to change about the car to make it US-legal would be to look at what people do when they import cars to Canada from the US and basically just make sure it's all been "reversed". A friend of mine sold an M roady up to Canada and he had to add DRL's and get a letter from BMW. I don't think there were any other changes he had to make (his was an S52, so VIN-wise much easier to work with regarding Customs).

Yeah I'm the guy from the other thread, and it's not looking good for the country of manufacture issues with the VIN. Edit: I'm stupid I read the direction of importation backwards haha...deleted last part of the message.

[GB5416]

I brought a M roadster from Seattle to Vancouver in 2008. The differences are; odometer, DRL, rear seat child-seat anchor and bilingual decals on the airbags if they were the type to require maintenance. The odometer has both miles and kilometers so it gets a pass, the DRL is just a module, there's no back seat so the child seat anchor isn't required and the airbags aren't the type that need maintenance. Taking the car back to the US shouldn't require any physical changes to the car. The approval process might be a little complicated though. I believe you need a licence to import a car but you can get one yourself for a small fee, it's just hard to find the right person in US customs to talk to. If you live close the border you might drive to Blaine to talk to a US customs agent. They're at the Douglas crossing, not Peace Arch, there's a department there that handles car imports and exports. Watch their hours though, they're not open 24/7. Do you have the export permit from 2013? Maybe that will help you avoid the duty, even if it has a W VIN.


Geoff.

[MRFAST]

I don't know what their response time is like but you might try a Texas Open Records Request. Ask for the original title and registration. If it was titled and registered in Texas originally, it had to have complied at that time. Also, its last registration in TX. I don't know if Customs will accept that but, just an idea. http://www.txdmv.gov/txdmv-media/open-records-requests

Also, I think you need two documents. One from the DOT to attest to correct safety, bumper and theft protection devices installed (HS-7). The other is from the EPA to attest it complies with US emissions (3520-1). The build sticker on the door jamb will show the safety statement. There should also be an emissions sticker in the engine bay stating it is US EPA compliant. I think it's also possible to buy these stickers or swap them between cars so I don't know if Customs will go by those alone. Someone above provided a CBP link. They are probably in there somewhere.

It's still best to talk to a Customs agent so you don't have any surprises.

[M'kay]

Thanks so much MRFAST GB5416 MauM3Mania and BimmerBreaker!

I've had a nearly impossible time getting in touch with customs about this, and have put in multiple phone calls and emails to their office in Blaine, so perhaps I'll just try to understand all I can when I am headed northbound en route to my first and only test drive/PPI recon. Fortunately I was able to secure the original bill of sale from the US, so I think that should cover me from both an duty-free and EPA standard since that Vehicle Emissions Control Information sticker is absolutely nowhere to be found inside the engine bay. If anyone with an M Roadster of that era happen to know exactly where to find it, that would certainly be helpful information, though ideally the US domestic records and Letter of Conformity will be sufficient. I also have the export permit from 2013, so between that and my best attempt at patriotic charm they'll let me cruise on in without incident.

Via https://www.cbp.gov/trade/basic-impo...rvey-target-id, I was able to find this information as well in case it's helpful to anyone else now or in the future who wants to re-naturalize a formerly US-landed vehicle:

• Re-Importing A Previously Exported Vehicle
  A vehicle taken from the United States for non-commercial, private use may be returned duty free by proving to CBP that it was previously owned and registered in the United States. This proof may be a state-issued registration card for the automobile or a bill of sale for the car from a U.S. dealer. Repairs or accessories acquired abroad for your vehicle must be declared on your return and may be subject to duty.
  In some countries, it will be difficult or impossible to obtain unleaded fuel for your vehicle. If the vehicle is driven using leaded gasoline, it will be necessary for you to replace the catalyst and oxygen sensor upon its return to the U.S. To avoid the expense of replacing these parts you may obtain authorization from EPA to remove the catalyst and oxygen sensor before the vehicle is shipped overseas. The EPA telephone number for these authorizations is (202) 564-2418. When the vehicle returns to the U.S., the original catalyst and oxygen sensor will need to be reinstalled. However, you may now reenter your U.S. version vehicle into the U.S. without bond, upon your assurance that you will have the reinstallation performed.

Thanks for the help once again, and I'll let you know what happens as well as if I uncover any helpful tribal insights into a tricky process.

Lapoune - best of luck with your situation too!

[MRFAST]

Good luck. Once you are successful, you will be the resident expert :-)

[M'kay]

Thanks MRFAST.

FYI, just received my Letter of Conformity today from BMWNA. Perhaps I was lucky, since I was able to get it free of the reported $500 fee others have experienced. Go get 'em while they last!