I've got Powerflex sub bushings on the way, just got my RTAB's in already, but it looks as if I ordered the wrong ones. The RTAB's are the eccentric bushings, I guess that's what I get for not paying attention before ordering.? is, I understand that polys spin, and don't twist like rubber, but are these eccentrics going to work if I maintain stock ride height, don't plan to drift, or trac the car, just my little weekend cruiser.Just curious if it be better to just slap some new oem rtab's with the poly sub's and the oem diff mount bushing, instead of messing with the eccentrics?
With the eccentric bushes, you have ONE SHOT__during installation__to get the alignment right, so they do require some forethought.
They offer you the opportunity to dial out some of the negative camber, so the option of increasing usable tire tread life is in your hands.
Heard that Mr Forbes, think what ill do is stick them on the shelf, keep them for future use, just stick some fresh oem rtab's in along with the Powerflex sub's. I do plan on some drop springs some time in the not so distant future, at least ill have them if I need them, Im guessing with poly sub's, fresh rtab's, and rear diff mount, along with solid rubber front control arm bushings, my roady should handle better than what it did.
Is it recommended to swap the RTAB while doing the Subframe bushings?
It never used to be, but given the car's, or more specifically, the rubber's age, it's not a bad idea, if you're up for the job.
Would there still be a dramatic improvement in stability from only changing the s/f bushes? Absolutely! Don't put off doing the subframe mounting bushes, just because you don't want to do the trailing arm bushes.
Point well taken rhoyle, planning to so, but im not really sure on how to adjust the Powerflex accentrics on a stock ride height, just gonna slap in some new oem rtab's.
You would just need an alignment machine. Usually that's how the cam/eccentric bolt style ones work, anyway.
How well do the aftermarket poly bushes adjust and stay that way? I kinda wanted to do the weld-ins, but if there's any chance they could back out that would be absolutely horrible...thus, looking at the poly adjustable ones.
Weld ins: the outboard nut has limited access, and you pretty much have to use an open-end wrench to tighten it. As such, I'm betting that ALL the talk over the years__remember, it just takes ONCE and then everybody repeats it__about them loosening up, is because they were not adequately tightened on initial installation.
For all the installations I've done (feels like more, but probably only 25-30 cars) I've yet to get a phone call saying the hardware has come loose. The weld-in kits are a far better approach than eccentric bushes, in my opinion.
Heard that Randy, after giving it some thought, I think ill just send the eccentrics back, in the process of checking them out, it might be just me, but it appears to me that the center sleeve on these eccentric's is a larger diameter so the bolt hole can be offset, making the main part of the bushing material thinner to compensate for the fatter pin, kinda bugs me now that I think about it.
Bookmarks