Should I Buy 1989 750il-160k-Looks Real Nice..

[XAlt]

Too late, the oil pan is back on, my biggest problem was putting a little heat shield in place for the electrical wires, I had bent the shift bracket a bit, and then the plate wouldn't fit into place, but I figured it out. I need to do this on a hoist. I've put several shift kits in transmission and the car needs to be higher up in the air, not something I feel like dealing with right now.

New filter on?

But yea, intake and resealing the upper oil pan are the next priorities. Still a bit confused on the coolant consumption, any watery oil or milkshake?

[CORVAIRWILD]

Nice clear oil, I used T6 Rotella syn and a Mann filter made in BA(?) Buenos Aires. I have a coolant pressure pump, but I'm reluctant to use it. I'll try the coolant system sealer, worked well on my 6.5 GM diesel that was getting a little water in one cylinder.
I suspect the oil leak is the lower front oil pan, looks straight-forward to service. What should I know about that job?

[CORVAIRWILD]

I ordered BOXI trunk lid struts from Ebay, 3 year warranty, $15.56. What are recomendations for wheel center caps? EBay has the usual China knock-offs...

[CORVAIRWILD]

I'm pricesing parts, Rock Auto is incomprehensible... Just the belt idler is $13sh, add a 2nd control arm strut bushing to my cart, and the 2nd bushing ships from a different location than the 1st bushing, so RA adds bushing #2 to my "B" cart, and now the idler AND bushing ship for $7! Remove bushing #2 and idle sh goes back to $13, go figure...

Should I get LemForder or Meyle thrust bushing? Meyle is $5.50 cheaper from FCP.

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And how do I get the fan off when I finally settle on the parts order?

[CORVAIRWILD]

I read the heatervalve link, but what parts may I need once I open it up? Can I turn the heat off until I get any service parts? The 2nd and 3rd links go to a general E32 page

[XAlt]

I read the heatervalve link, but what parts may I need once I open it up? Can I turn the heat off until I get any service parts? The 2nd and 3rd links go to a general E32 page

Another heater valve off a junkyard car (any E34 made after 1988) AFAIK impossible to open. Go Lemforder for the bushings, Meyle\HD are mostly high quality China items but I've used them for various things like rotors in the past. BA = Bosnia

The car has timesert head bolts that could in theory go, and of course it's an alloy block. To get the fan off, 32mm box wrench in reverse, bang on it, and it'll drop out with the clutch.

[CORVAIRWILD]

Heater valve from another junker, what improvement would that be? This thing should have been in the junkyard lol

[XAlt]

Heater valve from another junker, what improvement would that be? This thing should have been in the junkyard lol

New is $150. All E34 and 735i heater valves carry over. Most are already junked, I'd say there's less than 30,000 on the road as of now. Lower oil pan is a simple affair of unbolting the sensor and then dropping the pan, no special tricks needed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osHAspLZQoE
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E31-E32-...3D371612736664

[CORVAIRWILD]

I see the valve, and $113... My friend just visited a junkyard on a road trip and got me a sunroof access panel, but before I could ask for more parts, he was gone...

[XAlt]

I see the valve, and $113... My friend just visited a junkyard on a road trip and got me a sunroof access panel, but before I could ask for more parts, he was gone...

E34s are everywhere and you can find one for sure. Still a little concerned with the HG. Coolant leaks can be hard to catch, any exhaust smell in the antifreeze? If you have a pressure tester, go ahead and use it.

[XAlt]

Also, when the pan is down, go ahead and torque the bolts up. There's no clearance to allow for a failure, but they can have lots of slack because somebody at BMW didn't know how to torque it properly. Sealing up the intakes and dealing with the coolant leak\consumption would be my priority. Double check your cooling system for leaks before you go with the block sealer option.

http://www.youblisher.com/p/17534-M70-Topend-Refurbish/
When you do this, please use a nice sealant like reinzosil or hondabond if you don't want to go through with it again.

[CORVAIRWILD]

Torque which bolts when I have the oil pan down, there's head bolts that are accessible near the crankshaft?

It would be nice if I could get a used heater valve to tinker with before I take mine apart and break something, it's 90 degrees here today. But I'm not using the car this weekend, I'm going to use my three quarter ton Suburban to go get another 3 quarter ton diesel Parts truck, and I just broke my back window, stupidity, you think it's easy to find a back window for a 33 year old truck?

[XAlt]

Torque which bolts when I have the oil pan down, there's head bolts that are accessible near the crankshaft?

It would be nice if I could get a used heater valve to tinker with before I take mine apart and break something, it's 90 degrees here today. But I'm not using the car this weekend, I'm going to use my three quarter ton Suburban to go get another 3 quarter ton diesel Parts truck, and I just broke my back window, stupidity, you think it's easy to find a back window for a 33 year old truck?

Oil pump chain\sprocket bolts. Your HCV is a non-serviceable item, you'll have to go new or scavenge off a used a car. Check and see if it has power. How much coolant has it drunk as of now, you mentioned a puddle of antifreeze on the roadtrip? Everything else is a normal occurrence, but the consumption is a bit concerning and I'd run a pressure test before putting money in.

Ouch, at least the parts truck is only a state or two away.

[CORVAIRWILD]

There was a video link a couple of posts up showing a disassembly. Is it hermetically sealed? And the coolant isn't as bad as you think, I've used three quarters of a gallon the whole trip, and half of it was because it was low in the first place, and I dumped some-tinkering with a crooked clamp.

[XAlt]

There was a video link a couple of posts up showing a disassembly. Is it hermetically sealed? And the coolant isn't as bad as you think, I've used three quarters of a gallon the whole trip, and half of it was because it was low in the first place, and I dumped some-tinkering with a crooked clamp.

It's the lack of rebuild parts.

Maybe it's just fluctuation from hot\cold cycles.

[CORVAIRWILD]

That's why it would be nice to have a spare, if I have a bad plunger spring or gasket, there's more likelihood of it being in there, but the take mine apart without an extra one is looking for trouble. On the other hand it's broiling hot now, but it'll be 50f again in a couple of days

[XAlt]

That's why it would be nice to have a spare, if I have a bad plunger spring or gasket, there's more likelihood of it being in there, but the take mine apart without an extra one is looking for trouble. On the other hand it's broiling hot now, but it'll be 50f again in a couple of days

Ah. Well, dead E34s are everywhere.

But yea, hopefully the HG isn't the culprit or it's a tiny leak.

[XAlt]

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/osi...be-70-31414-10
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...0i-11131710195 -> Covers two V12s worth of intake manifolds and also works very well for the oil pan gasket.

I'd just go ahead and inspect your current one, there's no way it can get any worse.

[CORVAIRWILD]

Inferior quality parts?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/112167734289

And my lower oil pan bolts were all loose. Oil leak may be much less or stopped based on 5 mile drive home from my shop

[XAlt]

Inferior quality parts?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/112167734289

And my lower oil pan bolts were all loose. Oil leak may be much less or stopped based on 5 mile drive home from my shop

The wonders of that PO, wow. Gaskets can be replaced, and I think your diaphragm failed in this case. Didn't know they shared components with the E38's valve, so if you clean it out and install new gaskets, it'll probably work.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...alve-internals

[shogun]

see my website how to open the heater valves + clean them, plenty of pics under fixes >>climate control http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html
To block the heater core, easy http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/618100/
Probably you will not need the ebay parts, just cleaning, but you can for the time being just block the heater core.

[XAlt]

see my website how to open the heater valves + clean them, plenty of pics under fixes >>climate control http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html
To block the heater core, easy http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/618100/
Probably you will not need the ebay parts, just cleaning, but you can for the time being just block the heater core.

Could it get stuck open from clogging, always thought it was from the diaphragm leaking and allowing coolant to pass through?

[CORVAIRWILD]

I am concerned that without a spare, if I break something, or lose a screw, but we're hvng a heat wave...

I'll look at the links, thx guys...

[shogun]

In Germany some are running the heater valves without the rubber diaphragm, no problem, the most important are the cone valves inside.
If you do not want to open the heater valve now, then just block the feed to the heater valve as per the link above. Heat comes from the back of the engine, goes to the aux water pump, from there to the feed connection of the heater valves, 2 outlets from heater valves to heater core, 1 return line from heater core to engine bay.
Here a video where he mentions me , Rebuilding Heater Valve in my E34 525 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SJe-WANmlTs
BMW E31 E32 E34 Heater Valve Test and Troubleshooting https://www.tubeid.co/download-video...eshooting.html

[CORVAIRWILD]

What can I use to block the hoses. Random steel rod? Old spark plug?