Your manual locks probably still work, passenger side runs counter-clockwise because stupidity. I don't fully understand the central locking system either.
Resync afterwards
• After manually locking or unlocking the system, the door locks may become unsynchronized. To synchronize the locks, close all doors, trunk lid and tailgate. Lock the passenger door by turning the key clockwise into the emergency locking position (approximately 110 degrees from position O). Unlock the driver's door. If any of the locks do not operate, repeat the locking procedure until the locking system is synchronized. This might happen if a door which is not completely closed is locked, or a door handle is lifted before the interior lock button is raised.
-bmwe34.net
Last edited by XAlt; 05-14-2017 at 08:12 PM.
I'll look today, but I don't think it was broken. I peered in trying to figure out why the door lock rod wouldn't go up or down
I missed a couple of your answers, my bad. Trans filter? RA, I'll have to take a look, prolly the mid-range, and trying to keep shipping from the fewest places... Ok, I checked my RA cart... Hastings trans filter.
Now I would like to buy wiper blade refills, the proper stainless-rubber ones all ship from a different whse, costs double or triple the part cost... PIA...
Last edited by CORVAIRWILD; 05-15-2017 at 07:07 AM.
Ok, I filled my FCP cart with the above recommendations, why is the t-stat $30? I'll check RA. Ok, here's their offerings, none ship from "my" whse... So add $4-5... What temp is better, 174f or 185? Hotter is more efficient, harder on cooling system... And I checked all RA tstat offerings, all from different whse's. A real waste of time to click and review... Now I'll look at rear-upper thrust bushings. I don't have the steering wheel shake-shimmy in town, only above 50-55mph...
The belt idlers are $48 from Rock Auto, but double the usual shipping @ $13. FCP is $60, so they end up being the same price, I wonder if Four Seasons from RA is made in China junk? Where is INA made?
Last edited by CORVAIRWILD; 05-15-2017 at 08:28 AM.
INA makes very good stuff, occasional outsources to China, but very good QC. It claims it's an OE BMW part, so that would usually mean Germany. Baldwin\Hastings make good filters.
Just go Wahler from FCP.
Last edited by XAlt; 05-15-2017 at 09:43 AM.
INA says global, but sourcing changes at the drop of a hat. Low bidder wins... I'll be heading over to my shop to put the door latch back together.
If my bracket isn't broken, why didn't my lock rod go down? I tryed EVERYTHING! Manualy pushing it down, key in lock, everything! It seems to work well in my hand, like I mentioned, not greasy grimy or nasty at all, just a bit of dryed grease that short of removing the rivets-plastic cover, I sprayed the heck out of it w brake clean, worked it worked it worked it...
I don't think anything in the actual mechanism was the cause, I think the actuator might've become dislodged because of a bad bracket. I don't fully understand the system either.
Not all China parts are made equal and if you go to the dealer, they'll send you that part. Go INA.
Last edited by XAlt; 05-15-2017 at 11:44 AM.
Is the passenger side lock working?
Nope, I'm in surgery now lol... Putting the driver side back together
Nope...
https://youtu.be/3i_9hTQfmhg
After all that time, it was crap in the lock cylinder... wow
But yea, if you're getting constant steaming, run a test when you pull the manifold. 145-160 is the lowest acceptable.
Last edited by XAlt; 05-15-2017 at 05:18 PM.
So the driver's side lock seems to be working well, I sprayed the heck out of it with brake cleaner, and then I sprayed the heck out of it with silicone spray. Then I fluid-filled lubricated the window mechanism, and I sent Shogun a message to order some door handle gaskets, it's quite the task to get that door handle trim piece off., I guess I won't be using the car until I get them from Japan. Next I'lll jack up the car and dump the tranny oil and look at those solenoids
Last edited by CORVAIRWILD; 05-15-2017 at 07:31 PM.
Last edited by XAlt; 05-15-2017 at 07:33 PM.
Also take notes for any leaks you might find on the front or rear shaft.
Last edited by XAlt; 05-15-2017 at 07:48 PM.
I have the dropped tranny pan, the oils real red, and almost no debris in the pan at all. So should I really be dropping the valve body and cleaning the shift solenoids? Or am I opening up a can of worms??? Is there a Ytube video how-to?
- - - Updated - - -
I dropped the pan, the oil is real red, and I wonder if I should be messing with a perfectly shifting transmission to clean those shift solenoids and drop the valve body? Is there a YouTube video how to?
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...hifting-solved
http://twrite.org/shogunnew/files/ja...Valvebody.html
Just undo the big(er) T27 bolts on the valve body and it should drop out.
Last edited by XAlt; 05-16-2017 at 05:18 PM.
I'm going to put the pan back on, I can't lift it hi enuff, and I have other things to do today, like cutting 3 acres of grass... rebuilding kitchen cabinets for a tenant...
You have space to drop the valve body. The solenoid you're cleaning is attached right onto it. But yea, your oil leak looks like it's from the upper oil pan gasket or the surrounding return lines. You'd need a hoist, so I'd try and find another fix (hondabond\jbweld etc) in the meanwhile. One side of the gasket seems to be working decent, so you can def slow the leak down.
Good luck with the other jobs, haha.
Last edited by XAlt; 05-16-2017 at 05:55 PM.
I had to go run a couple of errands, so I'm back and I dropped the oil pan which was only held on with one bolt. Which valve body do I have to remove, the front or the back?
Remove the filter and then the whole valve body is exposed (looks sorta two piece, but it's not). But yea, it's a bummer the valve covers aren't the culprit since you'll be doing the intakes.
http://twrite.org/shogunnew/files/ja...Valvebody.html
Last edited by XAlt; 05-16-2017 at 05:58 PM.
Finally, a detailed write-up and what I have to do, but I'm putting the pan back on, I want to cut the grass. And I'm going to look at a super duper property tomorrow to move on with my freshly divorced life. A giant concrete block building to convert to 9 apartments, a whole bunch of ramshackle buildings in the back for my shop, at the very back of the property has an empty building lot, maybe to build a house for us...
All you need to do is find the solenoid screen, flip it over.
A806E794-CB03-4457-8C15-6D92729AD84B_zpsdwdrmccb.jpg
But otherwise, having lost 3 quarts of oil in under 2 weeks, I'd think of a temporary solution for the pan. I've never had to deal with that, but I'd grab the JB weld instead of dealing with hoisting an engine if it'd ever happen to me.
With the belts/idler/alt off it'll be easier to apply everywhere.
Last edited by XAlt; 05-16-2017 at 06:24 PM.
Too late, the oil pan is back on, my biggest problem was putting a little heat shield in place for the electrical wires, I had bent the shift bracket a bit, and then the plate wouldn't fit into place, but I figured it out. I need to do this on a hoist. I've put several shift kits in transmission and the car needs to be higher up in the air, not something I feel like dealing with right now.
Last edited by CORVAIRWILD; 05-16-2017 at 06:45 PM.
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