I have a few RA parts in my cart, the problem with RA is even tho it says "ships from same location as part in cart". That totally false! Sometimes it shows the Truck icon, same bs, I usually spend an hour twiddling with parts to get the shipping costs down... Spend an hour to save $5 lol...
I already have the trans filter
Just use FCP then, they ship from CT, free over $49 I might sound like a broken record with the trans, but it's very important you clean the valve body solenoids or it'll be mostly wasted time. Which brand filter did you order?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...0i-11121725003
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...0i-11121725002
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...em-31121136607
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...-51241908431-1
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...740il-7959-1-1
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...0i-11531729720
But yea, it's little things like the locks, sword and mustard relay that'll get on your nerves.
Last edited by XAlt; 05-13-2017 at 03:23 PM.
And which trans oil should I use? WW has Castrol transmax import
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And should I use this cheap WW syn oil?
I use Rotella T6 5W40 or T5 15W40 because zinc. Wally World oil is Quaker State usually, they make solid oils but who knows what's changed in that blend and honestly W30 oils tend to shear. Oil wars are so 2009
Anything DexIII works in the E32's trans, I use red bottle maxlife.
Last edited by XAlt; 05-13-2017 at 09:03 PM.
I was at Wally World last night, and I think they had the Rotella T6, but none today. Only T4 and T5. I may have some at my shop though. What about Ford Motorcraft diesel oil? Or Chevron Delo? Or Mobil delvac? Or Valvoline diesel?
Is it advantageous to run synthetic? I'm not so interested in the long drain intervals, and I won't be driving the BMW in the winter so I don't care about the viscosity/oil thickening. And what about Walmart labeled synthetic diesel 15w40? Correction, Walmart diesel oil is only non synthetic, and $0.50 cheaper a quart in the one gallon jug vs two gallon, weird
Last edited by CORVAIRWILD; 05-14-2017 at 12:21 PM.
The SuperTech oil is loaded with Zinc, looks really nice. Predates CK4 as well, so I'd use it in flat tappet cars as well.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=1936728
So I just bought 2 gallons of Walmart supertech 15W40 conventional diesel oil, $.2.36 qt.
I think I'm going to work on the driver's door lock issue, I can't lock my front doors.
Last edited by CORVAIRWILD; 05-14-2017 at 12:36 PM.
Something else has been bugging me in this car the last few days, the heater doesn't turn off. Even though I have the fan to zero and the control set to 63, I'm still getting plenty of heat on this 55 degree day
Heater control valve, clean it up and see if anything's wrong. Looks like they're stuck open.
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http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/wate...tervalves.htmlhttp://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/door...k_bracket.html
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/do...kMechanism.htm
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/door...croswitch.html
Last edited by XAlt; 05-14-2017 at 02:01 PM.
I'm taking off my door panel and I can't undo the door handle pull clip so I'm unbolting it. Supposedly you lift up the door panel, but it doesn't lift up without removing the speaker, which I didn't see any description, and the mirror switch assembly doesn't seem to remove from the leather door pull, this is how I'm handling it
Lift the mirror switch up hard.
The reason your door closes so easily is because it's missing the black vent. E32 specific, somebody would have to get it off a parts car AFAIK.
Last edited by XAlt; 05-14-2017 at 02:20 PM.
I got my door panel off without breaking any clips whatsoever, I left the mirror wire attached, I was able to undo one-way only little clip from the door, and I've got my door "locked", and I can't figure out what's wrong, why it doesn't lock via the key, the rod only moves down a fraction, sometimes the door locks, usually it unlocks as you jiggle the handle
Pull the mechanism and regrease it.
Check for fractures.
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When you're done.
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/Locked.htm
Last edited by XAlt; 05-14-2017 at 02:37 PM.
Easier said than done, I removed the 2 torx screws, and the door latch assembly seems just as firmly attached
Last edited by CORVAIRWILD; 05-14-2017 at 02:52 PM.
Okay, I pulled back my Mint Condition rubber door molding in the nice tight channel, and I found the last torx screw.
Now what???
I got the door lock mechanism in my hand, it wasn't especially greasy or grimy, a little bit of dried grease, but not enuff IMO to stop it from functioning, but it sure wasn't working, I tryed it enough times! Maybe it will clean up and work as well as the Corvair did yesterday?
Can't finish it today, I have a dinner date now
Last edited by CORVAIRWILD; 05-14-2017 at 03:52 PM.
Microswitch is def working because the central locking engages. It looks like the bracket is the culprit here.
Good luck with the date.
Last edited by XAlt; 05-14-2017 at 04:10 PM.
I think I saw a picture of a broken bracket that someone drilled and repaired, but which bracket is it specifically? Is it on the door handle mechanism? Mine latch looked kosher, just that my lock rod didn't go down either manually, or with the key, except that it used to until I sprayed into the lock with silicone. All I can think of is that the spray silicone caused a little bit of hardened grease to dislodge. But I still can't believe a slight disturbance could cause the lock not to operate.
Last edited by CORVAIRWILD; 05-14-2017 at 04:26 PM.
Might need shogun to elaborate. But it's right next to your window regulator, with the two bolts holding it on. I've personally only had to open doors on the E39.
showDoorLockInDoor.jpg
2doorbrackets.jpg
actuator_loose-400x300.jpg
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...or-bracket-fix
Last edited by XAlt; 05-14-2017 at 07:52 PM.
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