Should I Buy 1989 750il-160k-Looks Real Nice..

**XAlt** · 05-11-2017, 04:48 PM

OE INA pulley for $60 on FCPEuro. Go ahead and use the $9 Continental belts from RockAuto, hilarious how BMW charges $45 a pop for them. They also have the trans filter (OE options are gone these days for these, so Taiwan it is). A new stat doesn't sound like a bad idea since you'll be pulling the pulley/fan, get the coolant level to exactly the full mark because they can be a bit sensitive. Tail Light socket is $6 shipped from HK, or $15 new "Genuine BMW".

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...it-zf4hp22-24a
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ro-11281720039
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...0i-11531729720

I remember the GM 6.2 and 6.5 as the stuff in the short school buses, they're talking about Square Body Subs in the E39 Off Topic lounge if you want to hop in.

**CORVAIRWILD** · 05-11-2017, 10:49 PM

A few more issues.. The trunk struts are weak, here's a screenshot from Rock Auto. Recomendations?

And I think I have a better idea of what's wrong with my RR running lamp. I flicked the headlamp switch, and it lit up! I have my soldering iron handy, I'll look at the relay under the hood tmrw.

**XAlt** · 05-12-2017, 08:44 AM

Originally Posted by CORVAIRWILD

A few more issues.. The trunk struts are weak, here's a screenshot from Rock Auto. Recomendations?

And I think I have a better idea of what's wrong with my RR running lamp. I flicked the headlamp switch, and it lit up! I have my soldering iron handy, I'll look at the relay under the hood tmrw.

Monroe doesn't sound bad for that role.

**CORVAIRWILD** · 05-12-2017, 09:07 AM

Everything is made in Mexico or China or Korea, or Bosnia Herzegovina...

I had trouble with USA Monroe shocks, junk after 1000 miles on my 65 Grand Prix, Gabriel Mexico were far better. After I made a video, Monroe conceded and sent me 4 "better" grade shocks, but I bot Gabriels, with a rebate that I never got, even tho I resubmitted, and emailed etc. Problems with something or other...

And the engine seems to be leaking more oil than ever, I've got to lift it up higher, and crawl underneath and see why it's dripping like crazy

**XAlt** · 05-12-2017, 09:54 AM

Originally Posted by CORVAIRWILD

Everything is made in Mexico or China or Korea, or Bosnia Herzegovina...

I had trouble with USA Monroe shocks, junk after 1000 miles on my 65 Grand Prix, Gabriel Mexico were far better. After I made a video, Monroe conceded and sent me 4 "better" grade shocks, but I bot Gabriels, with a rebate that I never got, even tho I resubmitted, and emailed etc. Problems with something or other...

And the engine seems to be leaking more oil than ever, I've got to lift it up higher, and crawl underneath and see why it's dripping like crazy

Valve Cover Gaskets or Timing Chain tensioner (steady drip) are the most common.

**CORVAIRWILD** · 05-12-2017, 10:15 AM

I have to admit, I havn't looked at any links you've sent. I have so much on my plate. The oil is leaking from the front of the engine, driver side, down past the sender or sensor on the front left side of the oil pan, if that helps...

**CORVAIRWILD** · 05-12-2017, 10:32 AM

My fuel door hinge has been chucking little parts of the hinge. Rock Auto sells a new one for $6 + $6sh... Ebay has rear trunk struts for $5-6 cheaper than Rock Auto as ebay offers free sh

**XAlt** · 05-12-2017, 10:48 AM

Originally Posted by CORVAIRWILD

My fuel door hinge has been chucking little parts of the hinge. Rock Auto sells a new one for $6 + $6sh... Ebay has rear trunk struts for $5-6 cheaper than Rock Auto as ebay offers free sh

Take the risk on the ebay struts. Use FCPEuro for the thermostat, pulley and trans filter. They're based right next to you and have lifetime warranties on everything.

Chain tensioner will get the AC compressor soaked and is on the right side, so probably valve cover gaskets/upper oil pan/oil cooler hoses. Fuel door hinge should be repaired ASAP.

**XAlt** · 05-12-2017, 11:09 AM

I'd get the whole bay cleaned up and start diagnosing.

**CORVAIRWILD** · 05-12-2017, 12:09 PM

Leaking on PS pump side, I think AC side is dry. I'll be over there soon, take a looky... Which gaskets brand should I buy?

https://youtu.be/Y57oCSfF_5g

**MKIVJZA80** · 05-12-2017, 02:00 PM

Victor Reinz

**XAlt** · 05-12-2017, 06:51 PM

Originally Posted by CORVAIRWILD

Leaking on PS pump side, I think AC side is dry. I'll be over there soon, take a looky... Which gaskets brand should I buy?

https://youtu.be/Y57oCSfF_5g

If it's running rough when cold, most likely the intake manifold gaskets which explains why it's down on power. A new set is $600, but we're smarter than that. $10 tube of sensor safe RTV\Hylomar\Reinzosil on both sides. You get to clean the injectors, inspect the MAFs, and do the valve covers while you're in there, was a real satisfying job doing it with my friend. Combine it with a fresh set of pullies\belts\stat and you're golden. Use victor reinz for all gaskets.

http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/V1...ughIdleFix.htm

You're slowly getting pulled in haha.

**CORVAIRWILD** · 05-12-2017, 07:43 PM

I read the article, my V12 idles smooth once warm. It's the cold part that is so bad.

**XAlt** · 05-12-2017, 07:44 PM

Originally Posted by CORVAIRWILD

I read the article, my V12 idles smooth once warm. It's the cold part that is so bad.

Yea. Sounds like when mine were going. Find the oil leak, and if it's the valve covers get ready to reseal your intakes.

How'd the trim shop go?

**CORVAIRWILD** · 05-12-2017, 11:52 PM

Nobody was at the trim shop, and I rebuilt the Corvair starter, got in running a little, needs one carb opened up, maybe tmrw.
So the intake gaskets just need to be re-siliconed? I'll lift it up tmrw and take a peek up into the maw. Maybe I'll see the underside of the valve cover and the leak?
I'm getting this random rumble from the RR since I got back, like a grinding worn brake pad, but it's smooth upon applying the brakes. Just comes and goes. What kind of rear wheel bearings are used?
And a new problem has cropped up... Yesterday I sprayed some silicone spray into the door locks, just because, and now both front door locks don't lock. They would work properly with the key, now both front locks barely move. The driver's side goes down just on the verge of dis-abling the handle, but that's it. I've tryed turning the key multiple times, holding it as far as it will turn etc. I kinda' wish I wouldn't have sprayed it.

**jclausen** · 05-13-2017, 12:41 AM

No, no, no, no and no

**CORVAIRWILD** · 05-13-2017, 07:37 AM

Hmmmmmm....

**XAlt** · 05-13-2017, 09:26 AM

Originally Posted by CORVAIRWILD

Hmmmmmm....

Re silicone, use a proper sealant like Hylomar, Reinzosil or Sensor Safe RTV. Get a fresh set of spark plugs on while you're at it, they're a pain when the car is buttoned up.

http://www.youblisher.com/p/17534-M70-Topend-Refurbish/

This very informative guide demonstrates the entire process of removing and reinstalling your intake and valve cover gaskets, the car shown had the exact same symptoms as yours. Since you've already done the fuel lines in the engine bay, you can ignore parts relating to that.

**XAlt** · 05-13-2017, 09:53 AM

Does the remote function still work, and can they still move up and down with the pin?

Get some gaskets, wait a little bit and hope the two keyholes work.

http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/door...k_bracket.html
http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/do...kMechanism.htm

**CORVAIRWILD** · 05-13-2017, 10:05 AM

The driver's door pin barely budges, and the passenger one I believe was working properly as far as locking unlocking, but the pin never moved. Now neither pins move manually, or with the key, actually drivers key in lock will sometimes lock the door, but just barely with the key. Remote? Do I have a remote???
I'm in the middle of helping a neighbor replace a broken drivers door window on a 1989 Mercedes 560sel, that door panel was so complicated to remove, and I see the same deal with the door panel on my BMW, do I really have to see what's wrong with my door lock mechanism? Could a little spritz of sillycone cause such malfunction?

**CORVAIRWILD** · 05-13-2017, 10:12 AM

I read the links, cruddy dryed greese in my doorlocks???

**XAlt** · 05-13-2017, 10:18 AM

Originally Posted by CORVAIRWILD

I read the links, cruddy dryed greese in my doorlocks???

I saw one of your vids from a couple days ago. The passenger pin would unlock with the remote, but barely moved and the driver side was working as intended. Weren't you using the buttons on the switchblade key fob?

I'd give it some time for the silicone to dissipate. What you can do is just rip the mechanism out of an E34 from the junkyard and reuse your lock cylinder.

**CORVAIRWILD** · 05-13-2017, 10:32 AM

I've only use the key in the lock to lock and unlock doors, I don't think the buttons on the remote work, probably dead battery. I can't believe a little spray silicone would cause the driver's door to stop functioning as it was just before, but the passenger door used to lock, even though the pin barely moved from what looks like the locked position...

**XAlt** · 05-13-2017, 10:34 AM

Originally Posted by CORVAIRWILD

I've only use the key in the lock to lock and unlock doors, I don't think the buttons on the remote works, probably dead battery. I can't believe a little spray silicone would cause the driver's door to stop functioning as it was just befor, but the passenger door used to lock, even though the pin barely moved from what looks like the locked position...

They were on their way out, I don't think the silicone did anything. Blame the Germans.

Once you reseal the intakes and top end, the car will feel like it actually has 330lb\ft of torque. That's several hours well spent, much better than spending it on fixing locks on a car that's not going to get stolen (the trunk is a PITA to break into by the way). The small things will get fixed little by little, but get it running like a top first things first.