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Thread: Should I Buy 1989 750il-160k-Looks Real Nice..

  1. #1
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    Should I Buy 1989 750il-160k-Looks Real Nice..

    Hi, I have a 1999 Mercedes E320 with 437k, newer V6 motor, but I'd like a bigger sedan. I also have a 2003 BMW 325xi, but have only driven it a couple of times, divorce problems.
    So my story is, I fly out west a couple three times a year, and I buy some rust-free whatever suits my fancy, and this time I just found this nice V12 BMW, 1989, and I have a Corvair in El Paso Texas that has to be towed back east. I should do it in my usual Suburban, but this V12 is cheap, and I can take it easy. I'll build my own trailer hitch to attach to the BMW, and I have a towbar arrangement for the Corvair, I've towed a hundred of them in my lifetime.

    So my question is, am I buying a far too complicated car? I like the fact that it's pre OBDII, because New York has mandatory yearly inspection, and my Mercedes has a bloody PO400 EGR code, that I haven't found the problem to fix yet.

    Seller seems like a reasonable guy, and he claims absolute everything works. Rather uncommon for a 28 year old vehicle. I'm also 3000 miles away, and I usually have good experiences, but not always.

    I'm a former ASE mechanic, and can fix most anything lying on a slab of cardboard... Feedback?

    Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

  2. #2
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    Keep in mind that the rear suspension is a hydraulic self-leveling design, which could be great for towing --- if it is in good shape. You want to make sure there aren't any leaks in the hoses, pressure accumulators or hydraulic shocks back there. Pretty easy to find spares in the junkyards out here in CA, the system is shared with the E32 735il, 740i and 740il. I think for towing I'd want to know if there has been a reasonably recent cooling system service - i.e, radiator, u/l hoses, heater hoses, water pump, t-stat and expansion tank.

    I bought a non-running 750il a few weeks back and have been slowly getting it up to snuff. Nothing too out of the ordinary, access to certain things is difficult but it was all designed to come apart and go back together with human hands. With your ASE background you'll be able to handle whatever it throws at you.
    1989 750iL schwarz/schwarz
    1991 M5 schwarz/silbergrau
    2013 328i coupe diamondschwarz/caramel
    2003 525iT orient blue/tan
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    see my website: checklist>>prepurchase http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html
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    So it sounds like the same cooling system issues as my E46. Typical plastic radiator and expansion tank failures, which really applys to any plastic-alloy radiator. What's involved to change the water pump?

    And flat towing puts zero tongue weight, but speaking of towing, the available hitch looks like a pretty simple affair, but not the receiver hitch I and anyone would prefer. Curt sells a "tongue" style, you know, the one that you bash your shins into. For the $160 I would copy it and make my own receiver style. The one I'll try attach a pix or link to is worth $75, half of the selling price

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/291869184401

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    Last edited by CORVAIRWILD; 03-13-2017 at 07:58 AM.

  5. #5
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    water pump replacement http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/wa.../waterpump.htm
    cooling system is not a problem, even the plastic radiators last a minimum of 10 years and also the expansion tanks. If a radiator fails after 10 years, nothing to complain, just replace it and you are good for another 10 years.
    There are other things you have to worry like leaking upper oil pan, heater core leak, hanging headliner, heater sword repair, leaking LAD shocks, leaking LAD regulating valve, blown LAD accumulators, leaking power steering lines, leaiing shaft sealing on transmission in front and rear, all fuel lines to be replaced, they are more than 25 years old.
    That is all normal wear on a car almost 30 years old, we just have to repair and refresh it.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

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    You're a Corvair driver, that already makes you elgible for the masochist discount. Over the past 25 years of internet connection, people have been trying to fix their E32s, so everything that can happen is documented. Lots of parts are interchangeable with the E34 rotting at your local junkyard as well. The V12 itself is fairly reliable, and hopefully the worst you'l have to do with it is seal up the intake manifold and deal with ignition/cooling components.

    Since the car is from the great land of rust free cars, I'd immediately put some protection on the door bottoms.
    Last edited by XAlt; 03-13-2017 at 11:58 AM.

  7. #7
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    "Everything works"

    I can guarantee not everything works. Not everything works on the E32 lol

    These cars require upkeep but it hasn't been worse than my E46 that I had prior to my E32, and I enjoy my 735 way way more than my POS 325 that I had.

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    Yeah, I'm sure there's a few little things, there always is. At least the windows and locks work, alot of stuff on CL has more broken stuff than working! The asking price is real low, maybe too low! $1200!

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    Quote Originally Posted by CORVAIRWILD View Post
    Yeah, I'm sure there's a few little things, there always is. At least the windows and locks work, alot of stuff on CL has more broken stuff than working! The asking price is real low, maybe too low! $1200!
    $1200 and no rust

    What could possibly go wrong?

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    Was this the silver one on CL in Torrance? If so, it looks pretty clean, apart from bad clear coat. I prefer an original and unmolested car like that as opposed to one with dubious "repairs", plus more money spent on wheels and stereo gear than on maintenance.
    1989 750iL schwarz/schwarz
    1991 M5 schwarz/silbergrau
    2013 328i coupe diamondschwarz/caramel
    2003 525iT orient blue/tan
    1990 535i/5 schwarz/schwarz

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    Just remember, the most expensive car is a cheap BMW :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Coomarasw View Post
    Just remember, the most expensive car is a cheap BMW :-)
    No, that would be a 944.

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    Sorry biasvoltage, I didn't get an email alert that there were any responses. Yes, it is the silver one, and I sent a deposit. Then this aft I randomly googled 750il, and read the scariest horror storys about 750's! The comments are at my750.com, and seem to be from the early 2000's. I emailed the moderator, or whoever's in charge, and we'll see if it's still alive. And I selected to receive email alerts, I missed that. Some forums default to what one would think is the obvious...
    Here are a couple of screenshots...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by CORVAIRWILD; 03-17-2017 at 07:58 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CORVAIRWILD View Post
    Sorry biasvoltage, I didn't get an email alert that there were any responses. Yes, it is the silver one, and I sent a deposit. Then this aft I randomly googled 750il, and read the scariest horror story about 750's! The comments are at my750.com, and seem to be from the early 2000's. I emailed the moderator, or whoever's in charge, and we'll see if it's still alive.
    Here are a couple of screenshots...
    Mad owners from the early 2000s realizing the car wasn't a tank and then paying dealer prices.

    Early problems were eventually fished out, the basket cases have been weeded out via the crusher, and ultimately it's a better market than it was back then. The E32 I share with my friend is touching on 220k, and aside from resealing the intake and redoing the ignition components, cooling system, a couple gaskets and the fuel pumps/pressure reg, it's done well and still runs like a sewing machine. Other electronic bits are mostly similar to the E34's, and there's plenty of those roaming on the road today.

    Overall, it's fairly equivalent to say a W140 Benz in maintenance, except the wiring harness doesn't turn into fertilizer.
    Last edited by XAlt; 03-17-2017 at 08:16 PM.

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    Phew.... I drive an '84 Suburban 6.2 na diesel, supposedly the never start in winter one. Mine starts without being plugged in even at 10f. I do all the repairs, 100%, including rebuilding my own starter and alternator. I just had the tranny rebuilt to the highest standard, and installed it myself. It has 285k, and is running strong!
    Pix taken today at lawyers office, and my green '95 6.5 TD Sub became hers an hour later. Divorce... That one has 291k
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by CORVAIRWILD; 03-17-2017 at 08:19 PM.

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    Both are 3/4 ton 4x4 tailgate model, exactly what I would have ordered new if I had my druthers, both are loaded, but both don't have posi, and my '84 should have had the heavy-duty rear differential, it has the eight bolt axles, but it's a light duty. Green one from Phoenix, mine from San Francisco.
    Last edited by CORVAIRWILD; 03-17-2017 at 08:23 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CORVAIRWILD View Post
    Phew.... I drive an '84 Suburban 6.2 na diesel, supposedly the never start in winter one. Mine starts without being plugged in even at 10f. I do all the repairs, 100%, including rebuilding my own starter and alternator. I just had the tranny rebuilt to the highest standard, and installed it myself. It has 285k, and is running strong!
    Pix taken today at lawyers office, and my green '95 6.5 TD Sub became hers an hour later. Divorce... That one has 291k
    If you DIY, there's really nothing to fear. Every minor annoyance has been documented over the past 20 years.

    If anything puts you off, the W126 of the same era is a good (and very reliable in some forms) alternative.
    Last edited by XAlt; 03-17-2017 at 08:23 PM.

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    My only issue is I'll by driving it 3000 miles east right after I buy it, and towing a Corvair from El Paso Texas. I'll take it easy, and the Corvair runs and drives, so I shouldn't get stranded....

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    Quote Originally Posted by CORVAIRWILD View Post
    My only issue is I'll by driving it 3000 miles east right after I buy it, and towing a Corvair from El Paso Texas. I'll take it easy, and the Corvair runs and drives, so I shouldn't get stranded....
    It's surprisingly hard to actually make them undrivable, which is why you see so many is decrepit condition for people to fix. Plus, you can limp on six all day and still have it feel like a car.

    Just make sure the cooling system is in ok shape.
    Last edited by XAlt; 03-17-2017 at 08:34 PM.

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    The trouble is I'm flying out there. I have a radiator pressure tester. It can pump up to 20lbs, so when I use it, I can make even "tite" non-leaking sytems ooze. But our luggage is always overweight, but I have to ship my tow brackets to bolt onto the Corvair, so I guess I could include the tester.

    So by cooling system I suppose the coolant needs to be green, not rusty sludge, fan working... I'm really attentive to the workings as I drive. I actually enjoy opening the hood of whatever car or truck I'm driving before setting out for the day.

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    So you're using a E32 v12 to tow a Corvair thousands of miles? What could go wrong! Lol

    Good luck, I hope you make it.

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    What's the difference if I was towing a 325i convertible? And I know how to take it easy, I'm in no rush if I hit a grade-4 way flashers on, 35mph if neccesary. And the Corvair runs and drives, so if the 750 suffers a meltdown, I can hop in my car of choice, and run for spares ��

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    Quote Originally Posted by CORVAIRWILD View Post
    What's the difference if I was towing a 325i convertible? And I know how to take it easy, I'm in no rush if I hit a grade-4 way flashers on, 35mph if neccesary. And the Corvair runs and drives, so if the 750 suffers a meltdown, I can hop in my car of choice, and run for spares ��
    The 4HP24 happened to be used in the Range Rovers of the same era, so don't be to worried on stressing it.
    BMW_E12_01.jpg
    Last edited by XAlt; 03-18-2017 at 02:54 PM.

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    The engine isn't the problem, no matter even if I was towing with a 318 4 cylinder. Its the transmission that takes the brunt of the abuse, especially the weak 4th gear, and possibly lockup torque converter. I was an ASE mechanic many years ago, and that notwithstanding, I have a very sensitive butt feel for how the trans is shifting. Here's a long story, a few years ago I bought a Silverado diesel pickup truck in Oregon and had it shipped to a terminal 150 miles away, I went to pick it up a couple of months later, and I let my friends drive it. A couple hours later we switched drivers, and I immediarely noticed that it was lagging into third and fourth gear, I check the transmission fluid and it was several quarts low, and the transmission burned up a couple of months later. Moral of the story is some people just drive it till it doesn't go anymore, then try fix it by changing the transmission oil, or adding snake oil or Elixir to the engine to stop a knock or oil burning.
    I just stumbled across a video on YouTube that shows a Mercedes with a sludge filled engine and oil filter, engine flush ain't gonna fix it, it needs a good scrubbing with a wire brush inside the engine. Nothing beats good regular maintenance!

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    Definitely. If you like being proactive, the E32's a great car to work on.

    The 4HP24 was one of the last boxes that BMW specified to actually change fluid. Later ones would be marked "lifetime" and suddenly you see transmissions, even the 5HP30 in the later 740\750 rated for 560nm, coming in dead.

    Great for marketing, not so great for the consumer.
    Last edited by XAlt; 03-19-2017 at 03:09 PM.

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