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Thread: EWS III bypass or trickery.

  1. #1
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    EWS III bypass or trickery.

    I have read threads on this and I still have not figured it out so I am going to ask for some help here. It is hard because I think most e39's have an earlier EWS that has a simple input from the ignition switch for start and then an output wire and you can just connect them to bypass. I have a wire that gets 12v all the time the black wire which I think is the output to the starter relay, and then a bunch of small wires. I know one wire goes to the DME and then one normally goes to the trans module or some sort of shift position switch but I think in my case it goes to my clutch switch. The rest I am not sure yet. I have not looked into it much because not one of these wires gets 12v when you hit the start position which is why I cannot figure this out. Most of what I have read has been on e46 forums and it seems like they are saying the ignition switch has a black/brown wire that goes to the DME and gives it some sort of signal and then the DME gives a rolling code to the EWS. Maybe on the CAN BUS network, I am not sure. I also read on e46 fanatics that it is easy to bypass! You just connect pins 1 and 2 together! But it does not say if they need to be cut so they no longer enter the module or if they need to be connected together and stay in tact everywhere else, what color they are, and the connector is not numbered either so I do not know. I cannot find what I am looking for on the WDS either. So does anyone know if that is correct about pins 1 and 2 and if so which wires are they and how does it need to be done? If that is not correct can someone explain on this system works? I would love to keep the EWS working for everything but I am at the point where if the body stuff still works I am fine with bypassing for the starter. Here are some pics of my EWS and the connector that goes to it and thank you for any help you can give. -Joe




  2. #2
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    Will move it to the E39 section
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  3. #3
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    Well from what I understand most e39's are EWSII so I may get more help in the e46 section but this is a problem directly related to an engine conversion too...

  4. #4
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    o.k., then I will move it back to engine conversion
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  5. #5
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    Need help please see image E32

    Hey shogun having problem with my e32 changed oil pan gasket and time cover gasket upper/lower. New tie rods and control arm bushings and motor mounts. Unfortunately my car still has a leak and now my alignment is off pretty bad the tires are slightly inward and makind a screeching sound I'm guessing due to the tied rod work. Alignment place is suggesting I get new control arms before alignment.... does this sound normal and what's can yhe leak be. See image

    IMG_8301.PNG

    - - - Updated - - -

    Need help bad anyone there

  6. #6
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    The leak can be a lot of other things including a front or rear main seal. Always start up high and work your way down. BMW valve cover gaskets are notoriously leaky and will get all the way down to the pan. Control arms would be a good idea, they are probably right.

  7. #7
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    PM sent.

    S.F.

  8. #8
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    ThAnks just ordered the parts from pelican online. When I changed the oil pan gasket I changed timing cover gasket and cam seal. Valve cover not leaking. So that Takes out those gaskets. So thats leaves which seal ?? Rear?

  9. #9
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    Okay, just so this is searchable: My EWS was all enabled because it sends a signal to the DME via a purple black wire and gets nothing from the dme to the EWS so the DME being gone does not matter. The red wire into the EWS gets key on 12V, when the EWS says the right key is in and all systems are go it gives power to the black wire which is the source power for the starter relay. The starter relay ground trigger(yellow brown I think), a 12v start signal from the ignition barrel (black yellow on the mss52DME for the M5), and then that black violet wire from the EWS for the everything is okay signal. When it gets word from the EWS that everything is okay, the next time you hit the start signal with the key it will ground the starter relay and let it rip. So I added a relay to change that positive 12v signal to a ground for that triggers the factory relay and boom problem solved with a ews that still functions like stock. I think I am going to take it a step further and take the "everything is okay signal" and wire that to the ECU relay for added security in a way that won't be published so even if you hotwire the EWS wires it still will not start.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by get dustd View Post
    Okay, just so this is searchable: My EWS was all enabled because it sends a signal to the DME via a purple black wire and gets nothing from the dme to the EWS so the DME being gone does not matter. The red wire into the EWS gets key on 12V, when the EWS says the right key is in and all systems are go it gives power to the black wire which is the source power for the starter relay. The starter relay ground trigger(yellow brown I think), a 12v start signal from the ignition barrel (black yellow on the mss52DME for the M5), and then that black violet wire from the EWS for the everything is okay signal. When it gets word from the EWS that everything is okay, the next time you hit the start signal with the key it will ground the starter relay and let it rip. So I added a relay to change that positive 12v signal to a ground for that triggers the factory relay and boom problem solved with a ews that still functions like stock. I think I am going to take it a step further and take the "everything is okay signal" and wire that to the ECU relay for added security in a way that won't be published so even if you hotwire the EWS wires it still will not start.
    Glad to hear you have it figured out!

    S.F.

  11. #11
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    Thanks, the e46 guys have a similar situation with a black brown wire instead of black yellow just for reference. This information does not seem to be out there. The EWS I and II are easy but III might have only been in M5's and later model stuff.

  12. #12
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    What exactly are you trying to do?

    Bypassing the clutch switch part can be done with relatively simple wiring (though it's even easier to just disable it in software). Bypassing the engine immobilizer part can't be done with just wiring - the DME software has to be modified. Without the DME modification, even if the starter engages, the engine won't start (fuel and/or spark are cut depending on the exact car we're talking about). In the case of the E39 M5 (assuming that's the car you're talking about), it's just a 1 byte change to bypass that lockout. Would take all of 5 minutes to flash.

    MS43 (525i, 530i) is pretty easy too.
    Last edited by TerraPhantm; 03-09-2017 at 07:28 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by TerraPhantm View Post
    What exactly are you trying to do?

    Bypassing the clutch switch part can be done with relatively simple wiring (though it's even easier to just disable it in software). Bypassing the engine immobilizer part can't be done with just wiring - the DME software has to be modified. Without the DME modification, even if the starter engages, the engine won't start (fuel and/or spark are cut depending on the exact car we're talking about). In the case of the E39 M5 (assuming that's the car you're talking about), it's just a 1 byte change to bypass that lockout. Would take all of 5 minutes to flash.

    MS43 (525i, 530i) is pretty easy too.
    Good info, but I believe he has an LS swap going on an M5. I have to assume that means he M5 DME no longer exists.

  14. #14
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    picture diagram

    can you please upload a picture or diagram
    Quote Originally Posted by get dustd View Post
    Okay, just so this is searchable: My EWS was all enabled because it sends a signal to the DME via a purple black wire and gets nothing from the dme to the EWS so the DME being gone does not matter. The red wire into the EWS gets key on 12V, when the EWS says the right key is in and all systems are go it gives power to the black wire which is the source power for the starter relay. The starter relay ground trigger(yellow brown I think), a 12v start signal from the ignition barrel (black yellow on the mss52DME for the M5), and then that black violet wire from the EWS for the everything is okay signal. When it gets word from the EWS that everything is okay, the next time you hit the start signal with the key it will ground the starter relay and let it rip. So I added a relay to change that positive 12v signal to a ground for that triggers the factory relay and boom problem solved with a ews that still functions like stock. I think I am going to take it a step further and take the "everything is okay signal" and wire that to the ECU relay for added security in a way that won't be published so even if you hotwire the EWS wires it still will not start.

  15. #15
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    picture of the relay you installed please

    please share a picture of how this looks hooked up

  16. #16
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    Pictures pleas on how u did the install

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