JBabin's Q&A, am I doing it right?

[jbabin87]

Cooling system question:

I have 2 temp sensors. One is the factory sensor that has been calibrated to work with my megasquirt (MS). The second is a speedhut sensor for a speedhut gauge tapped between #5 and #6. I have an 88C thermostat.

When driving like a normal person, MS tells me that my temp is about 91. If I let it idle it'll get to 94 when my electric fan turns on and then it'll hover at 92-93. (Side note, I let it get up to 98 once to make sure my fan will actually drop it). When driving like a madman, my temp will go up to 94 on a single pass and then recover to normal in a minute.

I'm worried that on the track it will shoot up to 98-99 when it's sustained for longer periods of time.

To note: At Idle (950-1050 RPM) my water pump doesn't seem to be moving a whole lot, but at 2k it seems to cool everything down quicker. My second temp sensor has a +4-5 degree difference from my first temp sensor at all times. At idle, this gets greater because it needs my water pump to spin faster. Once the pump gets moving it constantly sustains a +4-5 degree difference (remember, this is C). Is this normal operation?

Are these temps in the ball park of being ok? What do you suggest I set my "danger shut it down right now" limit at? What do you experience?

[chikinhed]

All of that seems normal. Water boils at 100°C or 212°F at sea level pressure. When you add antifreeze it increases the boiling point to about 130°C or 265°F or if you increase the pressure, which a rad cap does, will also increase the boiling temperature. The e36 rad cap will allow up to 29 psi.

You water pump turns slower at idle so it will move less coolant. At one point I had an issue where my coolant was getting hot at idle and WOT on the track and it ended up being a front cover that was damaged from a previous water pump failure.

[jbabin87]

My radiator cap is 1.3 bar. So.. as long as I'm below like 120-130C it's ok, or should I be super cautious as something lower like 100-110?

[jbabin87]

I want to bump this to see if I can get a more specific answer. Thanks for you advice about the cap though, I just ordered a 2 Bar cap to replace my 1.3.

What do you consider to be unsafe temperature? At what degree is your warning light?

[someguy2800]

Just during normal driving 100C or even a bit higher is not a problem at all say if it goes up sitting in traffic. Being its a turbo motor I would want the coolant temp down to be more like 80-85C anytime your going to see boost, mabey creeping up to 90 or something. The guys that see more track time than me might have better input on what it raises to on the track. Drag racing mine starts at 160 F at the start line and is mabey 164 F or so when I turn off but thats on E85 which helps.

[jbabin87]

I'm on E85 too. From what I'm gathering, so long as it's not boiling I'm ok? I'd love to hear from people running track cars how hot their car gets. I'll have my first track event in April.

Thoughts on the 2 Bar cap? That's 28 PSI. If the stock cap is rated for that I should be ok right? I don't want to blow hoses or freeze plugs. FYI, I'm on a Mishimoto X-Line Z3M Radiator w/ expansion tank and electric fan, stewart pump, not that it should matter for max temp or cap pressure.

[rajicase]

I'm on E85 too. From what I'm gathering, so long as it's not boiling I'm ok? I'd love to hear from people running track cars how hot their car gets. I'll have my first track event in April.

Thoughts on the 2 Bar cap? That's 28 PSI. If the stock cap is rated for that I should be ok right? I don't want to blow hoses or freeze plugs. FYI, I'm on a Mishimoto X-Line Z3M Radiator w/ expansion tank and electric fan, stewart pump, not that it should matter for max temp or cap pressure.

Pretty sure BMW thought of those things when designing the cooling system lol..

[jbabin87]

Pretty sure BMW thought of those things when designing the cooling system lol..

Well they sure as hell overlooked the turbo. JK, just wonder why Mishimoto would sell their E36 kit with the 1.3 Bar cap.

[jbabin87]

Next Question:

What do people around here use for brake pads and/or rotors? It's primarily a track car (road course), but I don't want anything overly loud. Recommendations?

[Butters Stoch]

Next Question:

What do people around here use for brake pads and/or rotors? It's primarily a track car (road course), but I don't want anything overly loud. Recommendations?

The most expensive PFC's you can afford.

[jbabin87]

I'm definitely getting the the PFC pads with the number 8 compound. Thanks for the recommendation.

This weekend I'm going to try and get my traction control working. I'll initially do this just by spark timing retard, but eventually I'll get a lighter waste gate spring and do it with boost cut as well. Does that sound right?

I need to connect all 4 wheel speed sensors to the megasquirt to make it happen. There must be wheel speed sensors and they must all go to one spot somewhere in the car. I've been looking for this with no luck. Can I find this at the ABS module, or somewhere else?

[jbabin87]

I think I may have found the answer to my question... of course, right after posting.

If anyone's willing to share their wheel slip reaction tables I'd love to see!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[jbabin87]

The most expensive PFC's you can afford.

I'm dialed in on the PFC 08 Compound pads, but PFC only makes rotors for the M3. I don't think I'm up for changing out the whole brake system before mid April, too much aggravation this year already!!

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good 2-piece rotor for my 328i? Road course with lots of big braking sections, I want something good.

[Kevin325i]

What road course?

[jbabin87]

What road course?

Blackhawk Farms and Road America in southern wisconsin!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[Kevin325i]

Yeah Blackhawk is going to destroy a set of brakes on a 500hp e36.

Have you been on track before, or is this a first experience? The Hawk DTC60 pads should serve you well I'm pretty sure they still have 328/325 pad fitment. Make sure you've got good fluid in there as well.

RA is really not very hard on brakes though. There's a few large brake events with lots of time in between them. Blackhawk will be hard accel followed by hard brake over and over.


I'm currently about equal distance from blackhawk and RA. Unfortunately I'm starting a new job in the Detroit area next week. Shoot me a PM when you're going though, I might be able to make it out.

- - - Updated - - -

Also maybe toss Autobahn Country Club into your option list. And Probably Gingerman.

[jbabin87]

Yeah Blackhawk is going to destroy a set of brakes on a 500hp e36.

Have you been on track before, or is this a first experience? The Hawk DTC60 pads should serve you well I'm pretty sure they still have 328/325 pad fitment. Make sure you've got good fluid in there as well.

RA is really not very hard on brakes though. There's a few large brake events with lots of time in between them. Blackhawk will be hard accel followed by hard brake over and over.


I'm currently about equal distance from blackhawk and RA. Unfortunately I'm starting a new job in the Detroit area next week. Shoot me a PM when you're going though, I might be able to make it out.

- - - Updated - - -

Also maybe toss Autobahn Country Club into your option list. And Probably Gingerman.

I'm pretty sold on the PFC pads after doing some research. The Rotors though, what do you think? I wanted something 2 piece and something people have had good experience with on hard tracks.

This will be my first track day, I'm really looking forward to it. I'm going to Blackhawk on the 19th but I'll have to ride with an instructor. I was thinking RA on the 12th/13th of May, but I might find something in between. Gingerman actually has an event end of April but damn that's a long tow from South Haven if I can't drive it home.

I'm a little worried about my car passing tech at RA, they seem to be be more stringent.

PM me if you're going out to anything, I'm in the NW Suburbs of Chicago.

[Kevin325i]

The pfc 08 is supposed to be awesome.

Most of the track guys just run centric blanks from rock auto. Just put a fresh set of those on with the pads. The two piece rotors have some merit if they're designed to use cheap braking surfaces. You'll be fine for now with good pads, fluid, and new rotors so don't over think it.

New people to the track are really really hard on brakes especially at Blackhawk. It's difficult to not drag the brakes for a long time when you're new and you'll put lots of heat into them. Focus on braking hard and in a straight line. Don't worry if you are braking really early and coasting into a corner.

[jbabin87]

So.. I got these PFC pads and the fronts when on great, but the rears...

I've attached the picture of the problem I'm having. Once I get the piston side pad into the caliper I can't slide in the outside pad. It's like 1/16 of an inch from being able to fit. If the pad thickness was just a little bit less it would go in easily. The piston is pushed back all the way, the back of the piston side caliper is bottomed out, and if I try and slide the caliper forward on the guide pins the piston pad pops out (because it's bottomed out already). Help? I'm sure I could cut this caliper a little bit, but I've got a track day tomorrow and I really want to get this going. What am I doing wrong?

20170418_120008.jpg

It's the pad it's hitting, although it might look like the face of the outside pad is hitting the caliper, it's not.

[someguy2800]

take the caliper off the bracket

[jbabin87]

I'm so dumb sometimes.. I immediately saw what you were getting at, and realized the guides had to come out as well. Didn't have to do it for the front so I figured I wouldn't have to do it on the rear. What a waste of 2 hours.

Thanks, sg.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk