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So I have a question and hope someone can help me. I have a 07 525xi with 110k on it. I just recently changed water pump and tstat. (What a bitch of a job lol)... I bleed the system 3 times. (Fill expansion tank turn ignition on engine off hold gad peddle down for 15sec) Now here is where my question comes in. I have noticed recently that with my heat on in the car I'm getting full heat from passenger side and cooler air from driver side. Both sides set to 80 highest setting fan speed in middle. I'm thinking of bleeding cooling system again maybe I took to much coolent out after the last bleed procedure, but red plunger in expansion tank is at operating level. Maybe there's a air pocket? But here is where it gets tricky. Try to follow..prior to changing tstat and water pump car threw a check engine light. Code came back to tstat stuck open. So I changed then both but 2 days before I changed then check engine light went off. Now since I changed them both operating temperature has been low 75c-92c but engine fan turns on at 92c I have noticed AND I did have heat coming from both sides till yesterday mind you.. Well check engine light has come back on again and is throwing same code tstat stuck open. I did order a cable and disk with NCSEXPERT INPA EDIABAS NCS DUMMY all that good stuff to get into coding and to diagnose the car myself. Should be in today. But if anyone has any input I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks all..
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I had this issue yesterday and noticed the day before that it was hot heat coming out of all vents. I went into my idrive climate setting for the vents. If you go the left for driver you can set how hot should be red when you turn the dial or blue for cold. Hope this works for you.
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Yes mine is set to red not blue. I have w feeling it's my heater control valve.
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You're on the right track -- sounds like an air pocket or a faulty valve, but I'm more inclined to believe the former. When you did the bleed procedure, did you let the car sit for like, 15 mins straight? Did you open the coolant cap during this process? It should be kept shut through all of it.
Turn the ignition ON (do not start engine).
Set the temperature controls in the vehicle interior to highest setting (iDrive to full red as well maybe?), and the blower fan speed to Low.
Press the accelerator pedal to the floor and hold it down for ten seconds, then lift.
Run the electric coolant pump for about 12 minutes to circulate coolant and bleed air from the cooling system.
Once the pump has run the cycle, check the level of coolant in the expansion tank and adjust it as needed.
Start and run the engine at idle until it reaches operating temperature and check the cooling system for leaks.
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I did the bleed procedure but I think I'm gonna try it again.
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Try putting the car with the front end on a incline. Sometime that is the trick... Good luck!
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Really? Like up on a set of ramps? And then bleed it??Originally Posted by jtbgonesailing
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YUP! As in up... Oh and on your heater valve, it works on pulsed voltage of 4v dc and the normal position for the valve is open. So pulsed voltage closes it down by what the module calls for. When they fail, typically it is in the open position...
Last edited by jtbgonesailing; 03-21-2017 at 03:53 PM.
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But I have read that the rubber pieces inside the valve could clog the flow to that one side. Like today the heat was fine. So I'm gonna try the bleeding with it up on ramps. But my main worry is the low operating temp. My dash tells me 92c and I have noticed that's when the fan turns on. But since I cleared the code and changed tstat and water pump it hasn't come back but still hasn't gone over 92c.
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Personally, I would have replaced the new thermostat when it first showed signs of being bad. Even new parts from time to time don't function as they should. Believe you got a Bosch stat. Get a Whaler, they are the OE supplier to BMWs for thermostats and be done with it.
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Well that is my next step. Thanks. I have definitely learned my lesson lol. Thanks jtbgonesailing
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Your welcome sir... Hay, if I'm ever in Connecticut and find myself need a Bail Bondsman, I know who to call. Take care.
Last edited by jtbgonesailing; 03-21-2017 at 06:30 PM.
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I got you lol.
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I just bought a 545i last week and the heater control valve failed for the previous owner last winter. He was way up north without easy access to proper replacement parts but he was also the owner of a trucking company, he bypassed the valve with a y pipe out of random parts and got heat. He said it failed in the closed position and he had no heat on the driver's side. I'm just researching proper parts otherwise I'm gonna have heat all summer. I found ECS has an updated part and a kit of hoses to go with it. Dealer part was 64116906652 updated part at ECS was 64128374995 with or without the hose kit, I'll probably go for that one.
Last edited by nemean; 03-26-2017 at 12:26 AM.
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Please let me know how you make out with changing it. I to am having the same issue. The heat on driver side is cooler then passenger side. But some times it works fine. It's very confusing lol
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I'll order the part soon, got a few other things I'm fixing first. FYI, my earlier post I mentioned updated part 64128374995 - this is wrong. I don't know what I read or clicked on but the ECS site (I thought) had a button for updated part, this is part is for an e39. The correct part is 64116906652 for my e60. I think there may also be another part for a base model e60 where driver and passenger don't have separate heat tho, a single solenoid version. Looks like two versions, either you have 2 or 3 hoses connected to the valve. If you have heat on one side and not the other then you have the same one as me, dual solenoid 64116906652.
My part selection has been carefully researched since I've never actually seen the original part for my car, last owner threw it out and put in a "Y" pipe a few months ago for full time heat in -30C weather, he was in northern Canada with no parts available easily.
What do you guys think about OEM BMW vs aftermarket for this part? I could pay about $200 CAD / $150 US for OEM or I could get a aftermarket one made by "dade", "koolman", or "okay motor" for about $120 CAD off Amazon.
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You can go on eBay and get OEM replacement for 80$. And I don't blame the old owner for doing that lol that's cold. I'm in CT and doesn't get anywhere near that temp lol. But it's strange. Lately I have had heat on both sides. I'm gonna wait till it gets warmer out here and after my healing from shoulder surgery, I'm gonna get into changing mine just to ease my mind.
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