Removing rotors with stud set

[wintershade]

Hi -- I feel like this is a dumb question, but I'm new to DIY work. I have a 98 M3 with Zimmerman rotors due for replacement. I also have a Turner stud and spacer set. Is there something extra I need to do to get the rotors off due to the space set? I gave them some taps with a hammer wrapped in a towel and nothing happened. Do I really need to clock the heck of of them with a massive mallet, or do I need to remove the studs, or what?

Thanks!
(P.S., if it wasn't obvious, this is my first brake job....)

[pbonsalb]

You need to get the spacer off. If it is corroded you may have to pry it off but first try hitting with a mallet. Don't dent it up. Under the spacer may be the hex head rotor hold down bolt. Be careful not to strip it. Spray around it with something like pb blaster. The rotor may be frozen or corroded in place also. Obviously you have to get the calipers off to get the rotor off. Remove calipers and hang them with coat hanger so brake lines are not stretched. Getting calipers off can be a pain if pads are touching rotors and there is a wear lip on the rotor circumference. You must pry or expand the pads against the caliper piston. Once you have only the rotor in front of you, whack hard with a hammer around the surface if it won't come off. It will eventually. Studs stay in place. No need to remove them.

[RightYouAreKen]

Did you remove the brake rotor retaining screw? If you still have the spacers on, the screw is likely under the spacers and is your problem. Definitely remove the spacers and screw, then the rotor should be able to be removed.

[wintershade]

Yup, I got the spacers off and took out the screw. The rotors are really just stuck to the thing...

Speaking of the screw, I stripped one, but managed to get it out with an impact. Thank goodness. One guy at the track said you don't even need to keep the screw, it's just for safety. I ordered new screws to use when I finally get rotors off, but is it safe to just not replace the screw? Since it seems like the strip so easily and the wheels hold the rotors on, what's the point?

[TostitoBandito]

Sounds familiar. In my recent brake job I got the set screws out with no problem but two of my rotors took a good hammering to get off the hubs. They were nice and seized.

The set screw's only purpose is to hold the rotor in place in roughly the right spot so you can put the wheel on and torque the lugs, which actually hold the rotor on. The set screw itself should only be torqued to something like 12 lb/ft, so it's not holding anything on. If you've got studs it's probably not really vital to have the set screw since the studs will hold the rotor on the hub so you can get the wheel on. That said, order some stainless replacement set screws and replace them next time you have your wheels off. They're cheap.

[pbonsalb]

Whack away with a mini sledge.

[Alpine 318is]

If you already ordered the set screws just install them. I just makes everything easier. As for getting the rotor off, just get a big as rubber mallet and start wacking away at the edge of the rotor in different places and eventually the rust will break.

[VaTechE36]

I wouldn't use a rubber one...I use a 5lb sledge to knock it off. I would also whack a bit from the backside of the rotor, rotate the rotor, and whack some more. Keep repeating until it comes off. Just make sure you're hitting the rotor and nothing else back there.

Swing away and it'll eventually come off.

[ThreeD]

If you already ordered the set screws just install them. I just makes everything easier. As for getting the rotor off, just get a big as rubber mallet and start wacking away at the edge of the rotor in different places and eventually the rust will break.

Agree regarding the set screws. they are not necessary but make assembly easier. Install with liberal antiseize. To get them off I use a manual impact, makes easy work of it without risking stripping.

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[tsmith25]

When I was one of those teenager things, I was doing a brake job on a crown victoria and had the same thing happen. I hammered the crap out of it for 30 minutes. I tried every angle I could think of. Then I finally brought out the big guns and said "hey dad..." my dad then proceeded to walk out to the garage, and hit it once and it fell right off. The one angle I did not think of, which also, is less intuitive, is hammer it towards the center of the hub. That loads the rusted areas in shear which takes less force to break loose. If you haven't tried that angle It might do the trick.

[Alpine 318is]

I wouldn't use a rubber one...I use a 5lb sledge to knock it off.

I forget where or when I read this so it might be totally off base but basically the reason I read not to use a sledge hammer is because the brute impact of a sledge can damage parts within the hub and suspension assembly. Where-as a rubber mallet has a more muffled impact and doesn't cause that same type of damage.

[pbonsalb]

I use the mini sledge to tap around the circumference. If you can get it loose with a rubber mallet, that is fine. I no longer bother trying. If your front wheel bearings have 75k or more and you have sticky rubber and drive hard, you could be due anyway and I would not attribute subsequent failure to the brake job. I have never worried about damaging anything. You could try heating with a torch, but that could put heat into the bearings and grease. I suspect some good whacks will be needed. Hopefully the OP will let us know what it took for him. Living in New England has advantages and disadvantages and one disadvantage is working on cars with winter salt corrosion and/or rust.

[TostitoBandito]

Yeah unless you whiff on the rotor and hit something else directly, I wouldn't worry about damaging anything with the sledge other than possibly the rotor itself (usually you're replacing the rotor when you have to hammer it off so that isn't a concern). Loads on the wheel bearing and suspension components while driving hard/fast will exceed anything you can reasonably do with the hammer hitting the rotor.

[NeilM]

ECS sells stainless steel replacement rotor set screws, see:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...ach/6-ecs-001/



$10 plus shipping gets you all four and you'll never need to think about them again.

Neil

[TostitoBandito]

ECS sells stainless steel replacement rotor set screws, see:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...ach/6-ecs-001/
$10 plus shipping gets you all four and you'll never need to think about them again.

Neil

Yep, those are what I used when doing mine. One less thing to worry about rusting. That said, I never had an issue with my original set screws. They all came out easy. The problem was that a couple rotors were "glued" to the hubs pretty good. Nothing a hammer couldn't fix though.

[mitch500]

I put a thin wipe of anti seize on the back of my rotor to hub, this way no hammering. Especially if you need to keep your rotors and are just servicing rear ball joints or ebrake shoe.


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[RRSperry]

AeroKroil, antiseize, and a big hammer.