finally buttoned up the m70 today and fired it. I was expecting to get some lifter noise as i replaced all 24, but most of them just wouldnt shut up. I really dont like the procedure of revving the motor in park but I did it a couple times and then ended up just going for a test ride. Car runs so smooth and I'm kinda shocked at the performance. I didnt realize how much power it was missing. I drove for about an hour with all different rpm's. No change. I believe tre Ajusa part numbers cross reference with the 318's, 750's and 850's. thought I'd see if any of you guys are familiar.
I bought a set for my Buddy's Alpina B12 M70 in 2011 http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1047260/ In 2012 we made the valve stem seals on his car and wanted to install the Ajusa, but no need, see here http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/1106446/
also in the links in this thread there are good pics. Ajusa should be fine, we compared them with original. Also in Germany I know of M70 owners which use them. Ajusa claim that they are one of the world's leading manufacturers for hydraulic lifters, they belong to CRP Industries Inc.
Maybe it needs some running in time. I would just continue to drive. Also what oil are you using? 20W50, 10W40 etc pp?
Did you already install my ignition wires and the M70 chip set end no. -156 I sent you?
Last edited by shogun; 03-02-2017 at 11:30 PM.
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Well thats a relief to hear. I think what threw me off was the cross referencing part numbers, on the other brands i was looking at wher spacific to the 750 and 850. I suppose a longer drive is in my future. Im running full synthetic penziol platinum 10w30. I installed the wire set and they work and look great! I was able to make short work of getting the doughnuts swapped over from the old set.
I havent yet installed the chip set but hoping to get to that soon, Im really exited since the car drives sooooo much better! Ive been wanting to do this for a really long time.
I suspect the oil pump on the old zf4hp24 may be going out as it seems to keep getting louder, It drives and shifts great. Ive been good about changing filter and fluid probably more often than i should but its never slipped or gave me anny issues other than noise. After i address that issue I'll install the chip set.
I thought of something today... On the hydrolic lifter, there are holes and in the cylinder where they seat, there are holes. Are these supposed to line up? Because I just put them in place, I didn't verify if they lined up.
Second realization of today. I was crawling around under the car with my stethoscope trying to isolate the tapping along with what I thought was the sound from the oil pump on the transmission, and the probe from the scope bumped the line from the power steering pump to the rear of the car. It was vibrating with the same frequency as the sound I'm chasing. I fallowed it back to the bombs then it just loops back to the pump. When I touch the pump I don't get the sound only from the lines... Hmm
Look at the website of my Japanese wrenching buddy, pics of the lifters we bought and a youtube under hydraulic lifters http://e32b12.blogspot.jp/search/lab...valve%20lifter
and the drawing showing
1 bleeder bore
2 oil supply chamber
3 oil supply bore
4 piston
5 body
6 ball valve
7 tappet pressure chamber
8 return spring
then the pic lifter new and old, the new is Ajusa
length of old and new both same as per pics
so it looks we installed some then, forgot.
check the shop manual, I forgot, did that 6 years ago or so last time. Maybe unity can help, he just did that.On the hydrolic lifter, there are holes and in the cylinder where they seat, there are holes. Are these supposed to line up? Because I just put them in place, I didn't verify if they lined up.
As for the noise of the hydraulic line, check all the brackets, often they are broken, and they also have rubber dampers inside the brackets often if I remember right, check realoem
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The Bentley doesn't specify at least that I found. I've read the thing front to back a few times and I couldn't find anything. Compared the old and new and they are pretty much identical. Size, hight, width and location of holes. The body's are slightly different as far as the groove in the casing are slightly different but that it.
I'll check the brackets and varify with real oem. Thanks for the input
As far as I know, holes dont have to line up. As you said, the hole is also in a large grove area of the lifter. That is so oil can get to that hole no matter where it is.
I am pretty sure they just need a high RPM bleed/break-in. I have done the procedure once, but it says up to 6 times may be required to purge out the mineral oil used by the lifter maker.
Also, have you let the car completely cool down overnight? I use semi-synth Castrol 20w-50 (or maybe 15w-50). Anyway, in the mornings my car is dead quite. Its not til it warms up a little that the lifters start to produce noise.
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1992 750iL
Yes I let it cool over night the last two nights. The first day I only drove it for about 30 minutes before I decided to do more research. I didn't want to hurt anything. Today I drove for about an hour then had the thought about the orifice holes and parked to to confirm. Going to talk it for another spin. Wish me luck
https://youtu.be/eIPPj8AEwPM
Here's a video from today after driving for about an hour. This is a donor motor. Perhaps there is another issue...
I hooked up an oil pressure gauge and at normal operating temp, the gauge said 10 psi at idle. Bentley calls for 7.
That seems a bit louder than mine, but not too far off. Its clear that in my case its the majority, if not all, lifters making noise versus one or two.
In your case, were the cams good? No damage from oil bar issue? And was it quiet before this swap?
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1992 750iL
The motor like great throughout. Unknown mileage the guy thinks it was 150k or lower. Literally the third time I've heard it run.
- - - Updated - - -
I should mention banjo bolts were fine tight like always so I safety wired them.
- - - Updated - - -
*finger tight. Sorry I'm using my phone and it always gives me problems
I've put about 150 miles on the car now and the situation hasn't improved much...
I've read about lifter noise and high oil pressure from a blocked oil passage but it seams its common to have really high oil pressure. Like 40 to 80 psi at idle. My oil pressure is slightly high at idle, should be about 7 and I'm getting 10 psi and doesn't go over 75 at redline, as the Bentley States as normal. I stripped the engine down and removed the valve covers. I was relieved to see plenty of oil on both cams. I decided to put it back together without the valve covers to see just how much oil is getting up there. It looks like bank 1 may be getting more oil but really it was so close I wouldn't put money on it. I reinstalled the valve covers (that was allot of work) and now in a last ditch effort I'm concidering an aggressive motor flush. I can't think of a way to better troubleshoot the situation.
It's very upsetting to think after all the time and money on putting this back together, I may have to turn around and dismantle it to find the cause...
On a lighter note, on my 150 mile trip I got 24 mpg's. That and it's never ran so smooth at least in the 10 years I've owned it.
Open to any and all suggestions....
This is in Spanish language, but many pics, go thru that and maybe you find something what you should check on your engine, bmw m70 taques http://www.gti16.com/usr/coco/bmw_m7...70_taques.html
for example the pic of the old and new lifters, maybe it needs some time to run in?
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Well I put another 125 miles on it today. I was hoping to take another video but it was too dark by the time I got home. I'll try and upload a video tomorrow.
That's was a good read shogun.
The lifter priming procedure is something I wish I did. I did read about it and when I had noise thought to myself about how I forgot about that part. But I also know is not a required procedure. Hence the high RPM for a few minutes method. I am going to attempt the procedure on a cold engine when oil pressure is a bit higher.
______________________________
1992 750iL
You could also consider running a liter of ATF fluid in the engine to see if that cleans anything out. The detergents in the fluid might help break up any clogs or stickiness in the valve train.
I like the ATF idea, I'll give that a go this weekend...
I still have half a quart in mine from before the swap so it has not helped. But before the swap, it did quiet the bad lifter.
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1992 750iL
Well I have about 250 miles so far. I'll try the ATF next and go from there. Here's a video from today I honestly can tell if it's improved at all.
https://youtu.be/po5r3m_gJjM
Try a car mechanics stethoscope and check if there is only one of them louder.
I would also put on the sound absorber between the cylinder banks and then listen again how it sounds with that cover on.
Maybe you guys are just too sensitive ;-)
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Nah. Car was quiet after half quart ATF before change. And its quit every time it gets a chance to cool down. I fear having to pull all the lifters.
______________________________
1992 750iL
I don't think the video does it justice. I have an auto Stethoscope and I can tell it went from what seamed like all 24 lifters to maybe 8 or 10 but still pretty loud and in both cylinder heads. Still pretty hard to narrow down what cylinders exactly. I had the sound damper off,I smelt fuel and was double checking the fuel line's for leaks. All new buy had a loose clamp. All post another video with some rpm and then you'll really hear it. I did not replace the rockers or thrust washers, maybe that's my next step... After the ATF that is
https://youtu.be/-YrrQpBQjtk
The latest video, no improvement. 300 miles with 3/4 quart of ATF. Next is changing oil weight. So not sure what weight to go to, but if that doesn't work than I'm going to install different lifters.
When you have time. Run the car to warm. Then shut it down and pull the oil filter cap. Curious if the canister is full or not. I know you say you have good pressure, but I am questioning mine a little. My canister keep emptying.
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1992 750iL
http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/i...owtopic=131457
Here's a good read. And yes I still have oil in the filter canister unless I pull out the filter, then it drains. I had that problem a couple years ago, it sounded like every time I started my car it was a dry start. Then I realized the drain back valve was sticking open. I just cleaned the whole canister and valve and now it drains properly.
Also this morning as I fired it up to head to work it was a little quieter than it has been but within a short drive it was back to loud and obnoxious.
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